Clarence

Nice! Very cool

I'm not trying to say that structured learning is all bad. I was trying to illustrate that from my experience you can be safe without it. It really just comes down to your personal learning style and comfort level. I don't think that one approach is inherently better than the other.

I think you're right Matt. In my own experience, structured climbing classes are not that great. I have been sport climbing and scrambling for several years (shown the ropes by an experience friend), and this year I wanted to get into more alpine climbing, especially glacier, but also alpine rock. I took the Mounties basic climbing class for the glacier skills and was very underwhelmed. Certainly, there were nuggets of knowlege that were useful, but by in large they told me nothing that I hadn't already read, plus I had to suffer through two months of (re)learning how to belay... A class like the basic climbing class might have more to offer someone who has never belayed or climbed before, but with a decent amount of general outdoor experience, some time spent reading (FOTH and John Long's Anchors book) and the willingness to get out and try things one should be in a good position to act safe. That's the approach I've taken to learning to trad lead this summer. I'm going out and learning on my own after carefull reading and some practice placements on the ground. The funny thing is, the last rock climb I went on with the mounties kinda scared me. I could place gear better than the leader after only one or two trad leads of my own... Good thing we were climbing stuff that I would consider soloing.

I like my vector. I have two friends with the Core, which they like, although it seems less durable to me.

Gummibears, starbursts, or jolly ranchers for quick energy, plus they are not prone to melting like chocolate. Peanutbutter sandwiches fair better than PBJ. Make them on bagels for added durability. Should keep for at least two days in a ziplock. A cup of dry granola is good for breakfast and packs well. Add a cliff bar and a half a nalgene full of nearly-frozen water and you've got the breakfast of champions! Summer sausage is a great supplement to any freeze dried dinner crap. Snickers bars are a good addition to the normal cliff bar menu. They have more calories and you can still eat them when frozen or cold.

Applies to both philosophy and mountaineering: "On the mountain of truth, you never climb in vain. You either reach a higher step today or you exercise your strength in order to climb higher tomorrow."--Nietzsche

There are a few pictures of the structure up on their homepage now. http://mountaineers.org/

When in doubt size up. Better to put in an insole or wear thicker socks than to smash all your toenails off. I wear 10.5 in running shoes, and a 44 (10.5+) in the Trangos. Note that because the shoes are made in Euro sizes the increments aren't as big as they are in US sizes e.g. There are two mens 10.5 sizes: a 43.5 is a US 10.5 and a 44 is a 10.5+. Also, it's a narrow last, so it may not be a length issue as much as a width issue.

Cool! It's almost as if I was there.

I'd second Spectacle Lake, though it would be too long and steep for your requirements if you did it in one day, stopping at Pete Lake on the way up would make for a fine trip. This has been an old standby of mine.

Yikes, condolences to all involved.

I have seen someone carrying such a thing, but it was probably 5 or 10 years old. I don't know where you could find one though.

climbed Ingalls on June 20. The area before Ingalls Pass is mostly covered in snow, and the area after the Pass, including the lake is completely covered, and the lake was still frozen. Pic from Ingalls Pass on 6/20 (sorry i don't know how to make it appear on the page...): http://picasaweb.google.com/petey5287/IngallsPeak/photo#5217455889682138194

Maybe wait a little longer between tossing your butterfly coils.

Last september I had service at the campground (Cold Creek?), but not en route. I didn't have good enough reception on the summit to make a call, but I'm sure it would have been enough to send a text. No service once you leave the gorge until you get to the campground though. I have verizon also.

Yep there are a few new formulas which don't burn people.

In auto-block mode it can be levered in such a way to lower a second who cannot climb. With the old reverso it is near impossible to lower the second should this need arise.

Yesir. No snow. A few routes will be wet, but most of it usually dries within a day after it rains.

While backpacking in the Pasayten a few years ago, we strung our food up in a tree and went out for the day. Upon return there were some gnarly claw marks all over the tree that the food was in. Luckily the food was still there, but those were some intense claw marks.

It was snowing at 38 when I drove over the pass on Thursday (the 24th) and 32 was getting a good dose of rain.

I was just at the Seattle REI tonight and they were removing all their stock of BPA containing water bottles and food storage containers from their shelves.

I just had MOFA training this weekend with the Everett Mounties, Red Cross and SAR folks. They were saying that Even in the near backcountry the chance of CPR working for a cardiac arrest is slim to none... The SAR folks said that the biggest benefit of CPR is to ease your own mind (and the minds of the victims relatives) after the fact, knowing that you at least tried. However, CPR is apparently very effective in near drowning cases.

I'd get a 60m probably. I have the bluewater eliminator 10.2 which has taken a lot of abuse. Recently I've been climbing on my firend's Maxim 10.2 (green and yellow bi weave) which is also a solid choice.

Are you anal about your climbing gear--obsessively cleaning and organizing it after every trip? Or do you just throw it in a closet till next time? Discuss

I think that Kayland actually makes wide size mountaineering boots. They're probably the only ones though. And good luck finding a pair to try on...