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Everything posted by crmlla2007

  1. Best Guide Service

    lol, true, when brokenpick asked about Emmons and DC I should have put 2 and 2 together and not come up with 5.
  2. You'd have to put at least one hanger on it and wear a harness.
  3. anyone for Rainer in the winter time?

    I'm all up for it. Did Kautz in July. Only I'd be coming in from Utah, so the window thing is iffy. Would need a backup plan. (though I do have family in Seattle area to hang with and can do some work from wherever I can get internet)
  4. Heavy Old A/T Advice

    Here in Utah too - depressingly warm and dry.
  5. Heavy Old A/T Advice

    Wow, thanks. That does clear it up a bit, and we are fairly similar so I think your opinion holds water for me.
  6. Best Guide Service

    By AAI do you mean American Alpine Institute or Alpine Ascents International? I think both do stuff on Rainier.
  7. Heavy Old A/T Advice

    True. BD is less than an hour away and I could rent gear and try it out. Just kindof wondering about some of this. If they max out at 190 lb. I will always be way above that, so I wonder what that means. Will I not float? not be able to turn? or what? Will it be worse wearing a pack? I'd really rather not just randomly try stuff if it will never work out.
  8. Found it V16 = linked V15's - links on right to Koyamada bits.
  9. Lift Served Carnage

    I used to work lifts when I was a kid, and my supervisor had to inspect the brakes and stuff every night and put it in the log before he could go home. Though I was a dumb snot kid, he was a heavy equipment operator in the summer and knew his way around hydraulics and such. I figure it's probably about the same everywhere.
  10. Highball boulder problems go to 30' or so. There are already V15 linkups that go on seemingly forever in caves (can't remember the name offhand - Japanese guy did it?). Thought the Class 5 rating meant "rope up or you might die" and in all honesty, while you could fall off your kitchen table and die, if it never goes over 10' or so it can't really be Class 5, can it?
  11. Kong Ghost belay device

    "Don't try to interrupt the flow in midstream"
  12. Looking for thermofit boot liners

    When I had my intuitions fitted, the tech had me in a smaller size liner than I normally wear. My fitter said the following: A liner will grow, but will not shrink. Do not get a liner that is too big for your foot. You want as much foam as you need to start with, the foam will not increase in volume when you heat it, but will shrink in volume when you cool it on your foot. Based on that, if you have a shell that is pretty form-fitted to your foot to start with, you don't want a lot of foam, so you get a smaller liner, and as you put it on it will stretch out and fill the small space. If the boot has enough space, get the liner that fits just right, which should be too large for the boot, and it will shrink to fit the interior of the boot. Your boot is too large if a liner that fits your foot fine fits the boot fine, or has slop room. Get a new boot with the right fit from the right manufacturer as much as that hurts. Hope that makes sense and that my fitter was telling the truth
  13. That Pic w/drill is just begging for a comic text-balloon: "Pull my sleeve up so they can see my muscular and attractive arms. "
  14. gear sale lots o stuff

    What sizes on the boots?
  15. Foot Stuff..

    Is the "superfeet" the one with the little triangle pad under the ball of the foot? If so, that's the one that makes my foot numb - pushes on nerves. With feet this bad (nothing personal) I think that retail insoles won't work. Two thoughts on store-bought - get the thickest heat-mold insole you can get and either 1 - follow the directions, set it in your shoe and stand as flat-footed as you can (common). 2 - after inserting in shoe just cinch up your laces and sit with about 25% of your weight on the sole (gives slightly higher arch support). BUT if it were me, I'd spend some money and go to a foot doc and get some REAL orthotics custom carved and molded under a variety of tests and conditions to make sure it is what you really need and that it does what it is supposed to in action, not just in the chair in the office. Some scamming docs will just look at your feet, measure, then pull one off the shelf and tell you to come back tomorrow after it is customized (and it won't be). So ask around at support groups for aging runners - they eat orthotics for breakfast lunch and dinner. Good luck.
  16. Gri Gri or Cinch

    You can belay from a harness or the anchors (belaying second from the top of the pitch) with the GriGri and the Eddy. The instructions that come with both detail it, but it's pretty much the same as any from-the-top device - just look at the little picture on the device of the "climber" and the "hand" to remember which end of the device which end of the rope goes through. It's a bit less intuitive to set up a reverso from the top, but again, if your second isn't going to take any whippers, and you're going to keep your non-pissing/eating hand on the rope, it is lighter than any semi-automagical device. As well, true, for rappelling on two lines, the reverso will also do that easily, and none of the others in this discussion do this at all, let alone easily. There are ways to set up a rappel off one side of the rope pair that go beyond this discussion. So if you're thinking of keeping your partner from dropping you (and honestly, you can drop someone on any device if you totally screw up) and don't need to rappel off both ropes, then go for it. If you also need to rappel off both ropes, then you'll need to carry something in addition and my own opinion is that the reverso is dang light and does the job fair enough, and makes a good emergency backup. If you don't mind beating the rope some, you can set up different carabiner/hitch combos or use an older 8 or plate device some of which are pretty light. billcoe: Just did a rope-solo on my Eddy Friday Eve. Worked as expected. Fed nicely.
  17. Gri Gri or Cinch

    Inside, I use a GriGri and an Edelrid Eddy. Enough will be said about the GriGri, so I'll focus on the Eddy. The Eddy is bomber tough (and heavy) and feeds smoother than a GriGri. I like the way the lever is designed - once you get the hang of it you just slide your thumb up and down under the lever to modulate lowering speed. The Eddy also locks up when you flip the lever wide open - so maybe it's the non-climber-significant-other belay device? I've heard of (but never experienced or seen) the Cinch having issues with the open sided configuration, but I can't imagine Trango designing something that isn't safe in every direction, so that might just be FUD. I have a Reverso that I use for belaying outside mostly because it's pretty light, and I like how open it is - seems easier to deal with dirt and gunk than tube-types, but I've never had a second fall on it so I can't tell you much about autolock mode (but it's easy enough to disengage in normal "take" situations and does the job). Just my humble $.02.
  18. Climbing Pants

    Second that on the snagging the flap. Worse is your eyePod earbuds being ripped out. Dang flaps.
  19. Denali climbing season?

    As well, last I understood, the Park Service restricts the maximum altitude a plane can land on the glacier at - when the snow recedes above that limit they can no longer land. I talked to a friend of mine who ended up walking out in late July. Came out after a week of hiking and he and his partner were down to their last gummy bear.
  20. Sick Dealz #2 Garmont Endorphins 27.5 ***SOLD***

    I could be interested in them as well if no one else bites, but you'd have to ship them - I probably won't be up there till around New Years.
  21. new liners for Invernos, or new Nuptses, for sz 13

    I got Intuition Denali liners for < $100 by calling around ski shops till I found one that had a pair my size laying around on a shelf. I have also dug around in used ski/consignment shops for used Garmont Ski Boot liners - you can get them for around $15 or so if you're crafty. And because they're originally alpine boot liners they're not usually packed out much, and sometimes have never been heat molded because the original owner transfered their own liners, or immediately got Intuitions.
  22. Grivel's New Tools

    Dunno - Mark Twight seemed to break one in every article
  23. Shipping gear to Vegas, or fly with it?

    The only hassles I've had is the stove - I use a jetboil and have printed up the TSA and airline rules so I can show them if I need to, and I usually carry it on (within the rules for compressed gas stoves) because I don't trust the cretins in the checked baggage area to know the rules (and confiscate my much-needed stove). Still, I've spent as much as 20 minutes while everyone behind the counter sniffs my stove (like cops burning a farming operation). I usually get the checked bag with the ice screws, crampons and ice tools opened with the little card inserted to let me know it's been opened. It looks like what it is on the little x-ray display, so I can't imagine what they want to see. If you're gear is overweight it's cheaper to ship it than to pay the overweight fee. If you're staying in a hotel call ahead and see if they can hold it for you. I have friends who ship video production equipment and that's what they do - and have never had problems doing that (as opposed to theft and damage from checking it as baggage).
  24. Unlocking a Reverso Under Load

    From Petzl: http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportConseils?Famille=12&Conseil=34&Cadre=0