Plaidman

Yep. Start over. If you don't have jugs you need a prusik or two. I always have a least one and have a least one sling that I can make klemheist with. I had to re-ascend a rope in Yosemite once and get all the way back to the anchor. We tried to rap off an anchor that required 2 ropes. We then used the walk off which should have been our first option. You could do what these guys did on El Cap, but I would not suggest it. http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1886785/Rappelling-El-Capitan

I would like formally thank Bill Coe for the hardware contributions. The Fixe Chain Anchors are AWESOME!!!! The route will be able to be rapped with one 60m rope. And the rope pulls great from the rap stations I have set.

Had to look up Adam Ondra http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adam_Ondra Oh. That guy. He would probably bitch slap me back. I don't want to even go there.

Just a bump to change the Subject line back to BOLTS!!!!!

Heard about the rock fall. Didn't see any damage yesterday. I didn't look to far. I was too busy CLIMBING!!!!!

Always wanted to climb that. Going to Yosemite this fall instead.

The new route is up now and open for business. Have at it boys and girls. Now there are 2 routes on The Steeple! Whaa-Hooo

Good word - differentiated I will use it in a sentence 3x today to make sure I have it in my mental database.

I know that the route I did at Coethedral area on The Steeple I placed the bolts close. Between 6 and 7 feet apart. Mostly because I had to aid on this ground up attempt on 5.10 overhanging terrain. I didn't want the route to be a bolt ladder so I made myself on every bolt get into the top step of my aiders and drilled as high as I could, while hanging on knobs. The ethic of Coethedral is that because it is a total knobfest that the bolt placing should be close to make a fall on the knobs not a season ending injury. So being that I am short and with the rule to be in the top step it was a perfect measuring stick to get the route "Brother Mike" in. We freed the route yesterday and the bolt placing was perfect in my partners opinion. We will have to see in the future how others feel. I feel that the locals should decide between themselves what is the ethic and then stick to their guns about what should or should not be done in their area. For instance Beacon Rock will never be a bolt infested sport area. Thank God! I have never chopped a bolt. The only ones that I would chop are the ones that the first acentionist would sanction. The quote I like is Messners "Murder of the Impossible". The way I climb it is more like the murder of the possible. Then I like the line in my new song "Well the first thing you know ol Plaid's a drillionaire"

That it is, that it is. Now we need to get some folks on it to confirm that rating and have fun at the same time.

Rick McDonald and I free climbed "Brother Mike" on The Steeple. The first free ascent went in 4 pitches. 1st pitch was a trad lead by me in a 60 foot crack system to a semi-hanging belay. The first pitch is 5.7. Then Rick led the the second pitch. At the third bolt he did a crouching tiger lunging dyno to a two finger ledge/knob. The second pitch is 115 ft. with 22 draws and goes at 5.10-. I then led the third pitch off the Monster Knob. This pitch is 80 ft. with 13 draws and goes at 5.10-. Rick led to the summit which is 120 ft. with 4 draws and slinging 4 knobs and goes at 5.6 Awesome day!!! Awesome partner on a great climb. Hard to beat. Here are some pics. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/100_09

Just in case someone doesn't remember the tune: [video:youtube]YouTube ID;

Not a good time of year to go up there. Lot's of rock fall. Not suggested. And this is from someone that has no idea what they are doing.

Where the FUCK did this come from???? OFF THE HOOK FUNNY!!!! Come and listen to a story about a man named Plaid A poor mountaineer, barely kept his family fed, Then one day he was shootin at some food, And down to the ground came some rocky rude. Cobbles that is, grey gold, Oregon peas. Well the first thing you know ol Plaid's a drillionaire, Kinfolk said "Plaid move away on out there" Said "Coethedral is the place you ought to be" So they loaded up the van and moved to the boonies. Spires, that is. Swimmin holes, TV stars. Well now its time to say good by to Plaid and all his kin. And they would like to thank you folks fer kindly not droppin. You're all invited back a gain to this locality To have a heapin helpin of their hospitality Orebilly that is. Set a spell, Take your shoes off. Y'all come back now, y'hear?.

Ricky and I are headed up to free the route in the morning.

I climbed Chonga Line up at Jimmy's once. Exciting to be sure.

Yippy and RIGHT ON!!!! I'll be there for sure.

Dirtbag On!!!

Going solo? Or did wife/girlfriend nix your idea for getting out? Maybe you found someone to climb with? Just wondering.

If the Gorge doesn't freeze this winter I am going to be pissed. Or maybe I'll just have to make a road trip to Cody WY. But the damn thing better freeze or there will be hell to pay. How is going to pay? I guess I will need to speak to the management.

Wow nice crack!

We may have a go this weekend on Sunday. Here are some pics from last weekend. Thanks for all the help Bill and Rick, Ronda, Mike Reddig, and all those that suffered this endless thread. Anchor at the top that I rapped off. Crappy pic of the rap line down the way I came up on "Brother Mike".

Thanks Wayne!

If we can't do The Corner in under 3 hours we should just give up climbing. But really Young Warriors is the better climb out there. Still love The Corner though. Then there is Free For All and Right Gull. And don't forget Jill's Thrill. Now that I am done on my route on The Steeple I have some free time. Let me know when you are around.

Got to the top of the route yesterday. Free climbed the last pitch. With the drill and in approach shoes solo. It was gratifying to finally get to the top. Put in the last rapp anchor . I will put one near the bottom of the route so that it can be rapped with a single 60m rope. That last pitch was exciting with just 4 bolts, slung some knobs and dashed to the top. Now all I have to do it free climb the whole thing. It is 4 pitches and about 350 feet long.