shaoleung

John Long's new edition of the Climbing anchors book really does put to rest a lot of these questions. He has some hard data in there too. Kinda geeky, but worth a cover-to-cover read. This season I have been using the equalette and will never use a cordulette set-up again. It takes care of many equalization/extension problems. As for the original question about building anchors where the fall line changes drastically with removing your final piece, or leaving your anchor - I believe there is no silver bullet. You have to factor this in to your engineering of an anchor. You may have to building two belay anchors and break one down once your second arrives. Another less gear intensive solution would be to build a two-piece jesus nut both for the second and then for the lead, right off the anchor.

Anyone have any beta on the visor project across from the Snow Creek Parking lot in the icicle? There were a couple of burly lookin' climbers who've apparently thrown some shiny new bolts up there and were attempting to free it!

I climbed it around the same time last year and it looked brand new.

I was climbing the South Arete with friends earlier this month. When we got to the whale-back, I noticed someone had taken it upon themselves to smash the bolt a few times with a rock. Were it closer to the ground one might suspect it to be vandalism. Someone obviously thought it shouldn't be there. While I understand the debate of "should it stay or should it go?"... if you don't like it, take it out. At least it was a useful addition to the whale back. Now it is simply a worthless eyesore. Which brings me to the question. As a community in the Cascades, do really want to chop bolts that are there for safety on such popular, easy, child-friendly climbs? Is one bolt ruining the experience for others?