RaisedByPikas

I went the winter route. Patches of snow start right after the parking lot with consistent snow about .5-.75 miles from the trail head. Also up high (500-1000ft from the summit) it looked like the route split. One choice was climbers left up a ramp to a ridge to join the summer route or the other was up a short steeper section straight to the rim. The left route looked longer so pretty much everyone took the direct route.

You will be fine as long as the weather is good. Just don't decide to take a "better" way down without knowing where you are going.

I just went up yesterday. Most of the rim doesn't look that heavily corniced <5ft cornices in most spots. Someone placed some flags about 5 feet from the edge where you first hit the rim. I hope they got an angle on it to see if there was a cornice but who knows. Avalanches on the route probably aren't a huge concern anymore. There were some wet slides on the steep parts to the side of the route though. We camped and started early from the tree line, crampons were not needed even with firm snow because there was a good boot pack. Snow shoes are definitely not needed.

The route will be mostly snow covered. If you plan to climb before 10 or 11 AM you may want to bring crampons and and ice axe and know how to use them because the snow may be firm. Regular hiking boots will be fine if your crampons fit them. If there isn't much of a packed down path you will probably want snow shoes.

And there is no such thing as rock solid avalanche forecasting.

I've done Adams twice in medium duty hiking boots with strap on crampons. It was fine and I would do it again. My feet did get a little cold though.

I agree with the above. This webcam is cool. It gives me something to look at while working too. I wonder if it will work in winter or if it will just get covered in ice. It would also be cool if someone could make a time lapse from this thing to see the snowmelt.

Does anyone know what the fine is and the likelihood of being busted?

OR makes many different kinds of gaitors. Have you looked at some of their trail gaitors?

You can hang on screamer type devices (i think). They are rated to start deploying at something like 2kn. So unless you are a candidate for biggest loser you'll be ok hanging on these systems. But since you seem to know so much about the industry why are you asking for our opinion? What do you actually intend to use one of these systems for? Where are you reading that people use two knots for redundancy? Are there any horse socks? Is anybody listening to me?

Joseph is right, you don't need this setup for anything climbing related aside from via ferata, its just too bulky. You can get away with a purcell prussik if you want easy adjustibility or just a double length sling with a knot or two tied into it. If you need to traverse a fixed line for whatever reason then you can just add an extra biner to the system. In any case a quick link around your belay loop will be a pain to deal with once the threads don't operate smoothly anymore. You can also probably tie this thing with 6 or 7 mil chord instead of a static line scrap. And those double fisherman's worry me a bit, those things can come untied from large diameter chord pretty easy.

This won't be true for the lunch counter in July. The rocks get plenty warmed up during the day.

I would get up early saturday morning, drive to the TH, hike to the lunch counter for the night, then up and back down in the morning. If its sunny you will bake in camp from the heat. Take lots of sunscreen and put it on twice as often as you think you need to. If its windy the lunch counter can suck. Everything will be covered in a very fine layer of dust. But the views are awesome and it has that high mountain feel. Your blue foam mats will be fine.

Yeah I'm not really sure why you need the two alpine butterfly knots on the quick link. It looks bulky. What are you using this contraption for?

So I finally figured out how to be able to easily program routes onto my gps using google earth and also get 24k topos for free. I'm not sure if everyone has as much trouble as I did but I figured I can't be the only one looking to do this. This may only work for Garmin GPS's. Oh and by easy I mean that once this is all setup its easy. Part I: Getting Routes from your computer to GPS 1. Download google earth Google Earth 1b. (optional) Get a topo overlay for google earth. USGS topo maps NOTE: do not click the download drivers button on the top of the website its some useless program, scroll down and click "download with google earth". Also read the first update paragraph, I got this error. 2. Get google earth to gps interface. EarthNC Trip and Route Tool NOTE: To get this to transfer the routes to your GPS you will need to recheck the box that you might have unchecked in step 1b. 3. Create your route and upload it using the tool's instructions. If you want an actual route instead of just a set of waypoints you need to click the options button after you paste in your waypoints. Check the "convert waypoints to route" button Part II: Getting 24k topo maps on your garmin GPS for Free 1. Download Garmin Mapsource Garmin Mapsource without Garmin DVD/microSD card 2. Download AND install new mapsets GPSFileDepot.com NOTE: Ignore the "new users start here box" just search by state. I have only downloaded maps with a check in the EZ install column. I think things get more complicated if its doesnt have ez install. I loaded Northwest topos and Washington 24K Topo which has more detail. 3. Load maps onto your GPS Open garmin mapsource. At first it will look like an empty blank program. Click the drop box which says "no maps" and select the mapset you want. You should now see a large overview map with none of the smaller more detailed maps. Next (and this took me forever to figure out) You have to go to View -> Switch to product. Now several squares should show up illustrating the detailed maps. You cannot zoom in on these maps to see the details. Select the maps you want and then send them to your GPS. I just sent all of the maps in each mapset at once but your GPS may not have enough memory (well really I sent them in two batches, one for each mapset YMMV) Part III: Be sure you know how to use a map and compass for when you run out of batteries.

It looks like there may be light at the end of the 10 day forecast tunnel.

Yeah it looks like the rattlesnakes look similar but have bigger cheek looking things and the mean looking eyebrows. Snakes

My points really are quite simple. I'll break it down for you: 1) It is a sad situation but I don't think it is realistic to expect REI or any other company to admit liability when they or their insurer do not have to. Having to admit liability and volunteering to do it because its the right thing to do are different. REI says they stand behind their products but apparently they want their suppliers to stand behind them instead when things go wrong.

Look for me in line around 5:30 returning an old REI branded jacket that the zipper is f'ed up. I previously felt bad about returning an old product but no more. I'll have to convert it into some 25% off cams though because they will only give me store credit.

Backcountry.com has the S1 on sale for $275 (45% off).

Looks like the bourdon book is a year out... http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Squamish%20Climbing.htm Is there any more info on the McLane/Boyd book?

Resurrecting an old thread here. Whats the current best guidebook out there nowadays?

I thought she was placing the piece before taking it off the sling and then fell with it still clipped to the sling.

PM sent on the Smith and Exit 38 books,

wankerville