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pnwclimb

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Everything posted by pnwclimb

  1. Fromage's info is correct. My climbing partner, 3 buddies who skinned up to help with rescue, Patrol and SAR did a superb job. The rescue was well coordinated and efficient. We experienced a 20-30cm human triggered wind slab which built in the Bryant Chair Basin below and just South of the Chair Peak rap gulley during the course of our climb of the N face of Chair. My partner and I attempted self evac but failed secondary to my joint instability and shock. We were met at approx the thumb tack maybe 600 feet below the deposition zone. Tx at HMC for L radial fx, L fibula fx, L calcaneous dislocation, R 8th rib fx, R quad lacs, R facial lacs, bilatera peri orbital contusions. Deep gratitude for the assistance and support. Full report being sent to NWAC. More info as recovery allows.
  2. Really depends on the season. I've seen -30 at 17k. That's seriously cold and if you haven't spent a bunch of nights up high AND in really cold temps... you're in for a rough ride taking a light weight bag. That being said... I usually take a -10 to AK for high climbs (Denali, St Elias) and have good luck.
  3. Was up above Source Lake last week. Little bit of early season ice up. Nothing bound or thick enough to climb then, but could very well have been good today. Still a debris fan from last season. Rap wall always awaits. About 10 inches of unconsolidate snow down then.
  4. Please try this link if you are having trouble. https://picasaweb.google.com/104370159354124142855/November172011#5676116892950333490 Thanks for looking.
  5. BD Cobras -1 adze, 1 hammer -2 Android Leashes -2 B Picks -2 T Picks -2 Wrenches $250 firm. pnwclimb@gmail.com
  6. Check out the Vancouver WA start-up "Figure Four". They are Washington produced with innovative design, exceptional customer service and unparalleled quality control. I got a Delta 35L about two years ago and have abused it on ice, alpine and rock trips since. The design is elegant, the load carries well and it's stripped weight is 1 pound 9 ounces. I use it for one to three day trips depending on the load (how much technical equipment) They have a prototype of the Delta in "the white fabric", now called the Tau which I got about a year ago. Stripped to 1 pound 4 ounces, it's the best alpine pack I have used in 32 years of alpine climbing. This pack is poised to change the face of alpine climbing packs! Chad Kellogg is new routing in Nepal right now with the Tau and with a forthcoming 50ish L version of the Tau he helped design. Chad has chosen these two packs as his go to for a whirlwind year... Nepal, Patagonia, Aconcagua, and another shot at the Everest Speed Record. Matt Fioretti just returned from his 30th successful season guiding in Nepal with the new Tau. He loved it! Ask for Steve at Figure Four Packs... http://www.figurefourpacks.com/ Matt's Post about the Tau and his link to Figure Four... http://www.himalayahigh.blogspot.com/ Chad's Partner Page shows his Figure Four connection too... http://www.chadkellogg.com/partners.html
  7. It's a narrow mummy. And... I like to play conservative. Not everybody has a heater as big as mine.
  8. Feathered Friends Widgeon Sleeping Bag -Long Length for users up to 6'6". -Orange Epic Fabric. -4 Ounces Overfill for comfort to -15. -Removable collar. -Used for Denali trip and CO ice trips. 25 days total. -Immaculate condition. Washed since last use. -Feathered Friends Storage Sack included. -Retails for $694. Asking $450. Contact: pnwclimb@gmail.com
  9. Got a pair of Switchblades... well experienced (M7, WI5 back in the day), newer front points, newer heel levers, no straps, looking for a loving home and some more mountain time. $20 Contact: pnwclimb@gmail.com (Seattle)
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