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Brewer

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Posts posted by Brewer

  1. Just as I was getting going in the climbing world, I move away from my climbing partner/mentor and started a small family.    Now, a handful of years later, I realize that this type of climbing is not going to be part of my life, so I should probably re-allocate my resources to something more appropriate.  As such, there may be some material here that could be of use to you!

    All of the gear here has been very lightly used and properly stored while in my possession. (6-8 years):  stable “cellar” type temperatures, binned away from sunlight/pests, and nothing but mild jostling while organizing or moving, and none of them have taken loads more than static body-weight – no leader falls. 

    Here’s a scale to indicate the condition of these pieces:

    1 – Brand new, never been placed/used.

    2- Essentially brand new, placed once or twice, no falls.

    3 – bought used, previous treatment unknown; light use, if any, with me.

     

    Items:

     

    QTY, NAME, CONDITION, PRICE

     

    1x Wild Country #3 Friend (purple) – 2 - $20

    1x Wild Country #2 Friend (red) – 2 - $20

    1x Wild Country #1.5 Friend (silver) - $20

    1x Metolius #1 Cam (blue) – 1 - $20

    1x Metolius #2 Cam (yellow) – 2 - $20

    1x Metolius #3 Cam (orange) – 1 - $20

    1x Black Diamond Ice Screw 9cm – 1 - $20

    1x Black Diamond Ice Screw 12cm – 1 - $20

    13x Set of nuts, mostly Metolius – 3 - $5

    6x Set of Hexes (cord never weighted, some not tied) – 3 – $5

    1x Metolius Syncro Gear Sling – ½ - $10

    3x Yates Screamers  – 1  -  $10ea

    5x bolt hangers – 2 - $5

    116x Set of climbing holds of various sizes and types.   Representative sampling shown in the picture.   Mostly from 3-Ball Climbing.  58 cap screws included.  - $50 (that’s a great deal on the cap screws alone!)

     

    Individually, that’s $265.   Buy it all in one go and I’ll round it down to $250.

     

    I can meet anywhere in the Portland area. 

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  2. I'll drop what I've found here in case anyone else comes by.

     

    The "corridor" is cut in 'twain by a bit of a jumble of crevasses, and most people now traverse to the right into a fairly open snowfield, then zig-zag up until they get up below the bergschrund. At that point it's a high traverse to the right and up the ramp to the snow cap. You *can continue straight up to the upper part of the corridor, but you need good snow conditions as pick placement and crampon points need good purchase to mantle yourself up and over. Some people have been jumping that crevasse on the way down, but it started turning people around as the weekend progressed. A number of snowbridges are going to collapse soon, including the one just up the hill from Schurman.

     

    Weather was beautiful for our acclimatization and relaxation day on Saturday and lots of teams found the summit. On Sunday morning, we were the first team out of camp at 12:30, and just after the sun came up around 13K' some clouds and fog came in, so we didn't get any views or much time on the summit. It cleared up later on our descent. Lovely time.

  3. Anyone have any good beta on the Emmons route? A friend and I are planning on a 2-night trip up there this weekend. Weather looks good so far, and the Rainier Climbing Blog says that the upper route is in good condition, but the trip down from the Inter-Glacier to the Emmons is getting trickier.

     

    Anyone have any input? How's the bergschrund? Are parties traversing right to the saddle, or is it more direct?

     

    Thanks,

    -me

  4. My son (nearly 5) is nearing the point where he could top-rope outdoors. He's got our 14' backyard climbing wall mastered (with routes), and I think next year he'll be ready for some real rock.

     

    Does anyone know of any good top-roping areas in western Washington that would be good for someone who's only 4' tall and with lotsa nice big holds?

     

    My usual climbing partner mentioned spot(s) off exit 38 I90, but couldn't be very specific.

     

    Nearby camping and/or picnicing spots (official or otherwise) are a bonus.

     

    Thanks,

  5. I'll add my agreements to the consensus here:

     

    Took the 6-day mountaineering intro course two years ago on Mt. Baker. Kurt Hicks was also my guide and he and the rest of the course were wonderful. From what I've heard and what I've experienced, they're a classy operation.

  6.  

    I've got a potential partner for this route that I am currently obsessing over (the route, not the partner), but he's a bit of a wishy-washy flake. If he falls through (hope to find out within the next week), I'd like YOU to join me!

     

    When: Some weekend in July (I have Fridays off, too)

    Where: Mt. Stuart, Ice Cliff Glacier

    How: Hike in, camp, summit and exit next day.

     

    Interested?

     

    -Ian

     

  7. FWIW, I've only been on a few mountains here in Washington so far, but the only Verizon service I've found on Rainier (Muir), Baker (Easton), or Shuksan (Fisher) was on the ridge just west of Sandy Camp on Baker above the end of the Railroad Grade at about 6200'.

  8. So we wound up driving down to Timberline (4.5 hours) and got there around 5 or so. Anything above the lifts was socked in. Wind was BLOWING (gusts around 30-40?). Packed up and snoozed until 12am, when the wind was still humming and rain started to fall. We slept another hour hoping for a change, at which point the rain was coming down much harder, and knowing the summit was likely off the table we decided to bag it since I didn't want to go play in the dark and windy rain/snow for not much gain.

     

    Slept till 5 and woke up to about 3/4 inch fresh snow (blowing in horizontally) and bugged out of there.

     

    Wasted gasoline, but Olive Garden in Gresham was yummy!

  9. Check out the Timberline webcam for currents, looks great now,

     

     

    Yeah, I've been all over that shit for the last week or so. Webcams, weather.com, noaa.gov, avy forecasts, weatherunderground, iphone weather apps, I can't get enough info. Not to mention trip reports for all south side routes....

     

    We've got a couple altimeters too, so that will be a useful tool.

     

    Damn I'm getting anxious to go.

     

    Thanks again!

  10. Yeah, that's kinda what I've been thinking. NOAA says that Friday night is now mostly cloudy with no mention of precip, so it's looking pretty good so far.

     

    We've got a good GPS with the route pre-loaded, and we've got 3 compasses (2 digital, 1 analog), so finding our way around won't be a problem, even in a whiteout.

     

    Thanks for the input guys. Good luck, cluck. Maybe we'll see you up there (along with 150 others?).

  11. Thanks for the input, ivan. Unfortunately, there isn't much of a backup plan in place, other than hitting a strip joint in PDX on the way back. We're dealing with a pretty small window we can work with; our families want us back ASAP.

     

    I like the idea of getting canned in a snow cave, though. Reminds me of the college days...

     

    On the bright side, some of the forecasts for Fri/Sat are cleaning up a bit over the last few hours, so all I can do is sit here and bite my nails, anxiously waiting.

     

    Thanks again.

     

     

  12. Snow level is forecasted to be about 6000-6500, so I assume there won't be much rain higher up on the hill.

     

    I've been watching the Timberline webcam and the radar animations for the mountain today and it looks like there isn't much precipitation on the upper mountain. The radar returns are creating a donut around the summit, so I guess there isn't much falling on the summit right now?

  13. So, I'm hoping to take the south side of Hood this weekend (old chute). The plan is that a co-worker (climber for many years, done the PG version of this route a few times) and I will drive down from Seattle on Friday afternoon, sleep a couple hours at Timberline, wake up at midnight for the alpine start and a desired summit at sunrise. (FWIW, my experience level is long-time backpacker, very confident on steep snow, 6 day AAI Baker class last June (easton), and Shuksan (fisher) last September with very poor visibility, turned us back at the summit pyramid).

     

    Down to the issue at hand: the weather. At the moment, it looks like it will be decent on Friday, with minor chance of showers Friday night and increasing into Saturday. ~10 inches of new snow at Timberline over the last 2 days. Overnight lows around 30F.

     

    Not having that much familiarity with Hood and it's weather (other than the web scouring I've been doing the past few weeks), would it be a bad idea to do this with this forecast? What would it take for you to reconsider the climb? It would be unfortunate for us to make the 5 hour trip only to be turned back at the parking lot, or even part way up Palmer.

     

    I value any input you can provide. This will also be posed over at SP.org for more exposure.

     

    Thanks,

    Ian

  14. [i would have thought that you would already realize that there are things that can't be simulated on super easy rock climbs and at the gym.

     

    Somewhat true, but belaying and rappelling are skills that sure can be. :grlaf:

     

     

    Yeah, perhaps I over-simplified my intentions. I just want to get out there and get hands-on with whatever I can without being too deep in the backcountry. Snow/ice anchors, escaping the belay, rescue scenarios, snowpack analysis, stuff like that.

     

    I've only lived in Washington for a couple years and last season was my first in alpinism, so I'm just trying to build a base of knowledge in addition to Freedom of the Hills and the AAI course.

     

     

    Thanks.

  15. Looking for accessible alpine ice

     

    If you need to brush up on elementary skills like belaying and rappelling perhaps you should spend some time on some super easy rock climbs, or at the gym, before you head into the mountains and kill yourself.

     

     

    With 3200 posts and 5 TRs I would have thought that you would already realize that there are things that can't be simulated on super easy rock climbs and at the gym.

     

    Thanks for your concern, but this thread wasn't meant as a means for people to lecture me, rather as a way of finding local and accessible playgrounds.

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