dawuda

Hey, i'm just getting into an AT setup. I scored some skis and bindings and then an awesome deal on the TX Pros, but then I started looking closely. They have the bellows with tons of flex in the toe. Does anyone have any idea how these boots would do on a mtn if you had to switch to front pointing instead of skins? Would i be better off with a more rigid AT boot? What are some of you experienced ski mountaineers using for boots that work well for approach, tech climb, and decent? One friend suggested carrying in my mountaineering boots, but certainly that is too much bulk and hassle to switch boots for that section of the climb! Any advice would be great! Thanks dan

nice job! totally agree on the cables. I was there early summer and climbed snake dike and the cables weren't up yet. Tourists at the top were dismayed we had just climbed a "route" up half dome but after descending the cables without them being up, I think the climbing routes are by far safer and less scary!

Trip: Mt Jefferson - West Rib Date: 7/2/2011 Trip Report: I took my friend Joel up Hood this last winter. After climbing it he swore it was cool, but he'd probably never wanna climb it again. About a week later he was raving about it and admitted he was addicted. Well, it took awhile for him to have the time, but last week he asked me to take him up again! Knowing Hood would be a circus on the 4th, I suggested other peaks and settle on Jeff's west rib. My other friend Josh joined us and we met up at the Pamelia TH around 2 on sat. After a leisure hike to the lake and to the PCT, the trail got steeper and my two friends showed me how poor of shape they were in. As Kirkw posted the week before, the approach trail is very clear if you follow the North gully. It was a beautiful night on the mountain and as it was getting dark we were surprised by the dull flashes of the distant fireworks over Detroit Lake! Most of them were out of view, but a few high flyers popped over the hills. We woke up fairly early and headed up. The snow was firm in places and after about 1000 ft of climbing we opted for the crampons. After meandering through the rock bands and up the steeper terrain, we finally reached the summit pinnacle where my two friends were becoming quite terrified. I offered to rope up and run out a pitch of two, pounding in pickets along the way until we got around the north side of the summit ridge onto the exposed rock. The summit block is snow free on the east side and went smoothly. We followed Kirkw's advice and downclimbed reclipping gear. Once back on the snow, we pitched out the same pitches that we had on the way up until we were back on the rib. The snow had become very soft and the plunge stepping back down the rib was easy except the hassle of balling snow or postholing to my waste occasionally. Great weather, conditions and trip! Both my friends were scared to the point of tears most the time cursing why they had an interest in climbing again, just to have them both excited and wanting more by the time we were at the trucks. Milk Creek Ever wonder what your friends are doing? First Rock belay top of the meandering rock pitch Too Scared to join me on the true summit! Gear Notes: 3 pickets, a few small nuts and two link cams. Approach Notes: Pamelia to Milk Creek, follow North Gully.

pm sent

Hey, looking for someone else who wants to climb at smith on Sunday. Really, i'd be game for anywhere within a few hours of salem! I live in Albany. I have a full rack and can lead 5.8, probably even struggle up some 5.9 and can follow 5.10+. Call or PM! dan 503-930-8643

Hey, I'm from Albany and always looking for a partner.

I'm pretty sure he needed more food, sugars, and water. We were going to eat a little more before turning around, but the winds picked up and we opted to get the hell out of the wind before we froze.

Trip: Mt Hood - Another accident on Hood, but life is good Date: 2/1/2009 Trip Report: My buddy Josh is just getting into climbing and really wanted to try Hood. The weather looked like it'd have a great window this weekend on Saturday night and sure enough, low winds, gorgeous clear skies, and styrofoam snow up the palmer snowfield. We got an early start and made fast headway up past the top of palmer. About a thousand feet below Devil's Kitchen Josh started getting tired, but wanted to push on. We slowed, but managed to make it up to the hogsback in five hours from the car. The snow was chunky and thick with blue ice all the way up from the top of Palmer up. Well, winds were picking up and the Old Chute looked like it might have a bit of wind deposit on it. A recent avalanche still had a trail down from the rim and things didn't look to safe. Given Josh's exaustion and the questionable safety we made the safe call to bail, not wanting to be another story in the Oregonian. While plunging down the slope from the Hogsback, Josh started getting leg cramps. He changed methods of descent and managed to make it most of the way to the mellower terrain. Just as he was shifting his body way to turn, he lost his footing, slipped and with the awkward weight of his snowboard on his pack and his exaustion, flailed to the ground landing with his right hand above his head. He managed to arrest his fall as he had his left hand on the pick. But as he came to stop, i heard the most gruesome growl of pain and agony. He couldn't move his right arm at the shoulder and was quite sure he had dislocated it. We quickly determined it wasn't safe for him to work his way off the mountain and put an emergency plan into action. I got him seated safely and dug out his down jacket. Then i called 911. The SAR crews were activated, but i was told it would take awhile for them to get rolling. The wind had picked up and it was hard for Josh to stay warm. I tried to help move him down to flatter more protected ground, but he was in too much pain. Not even 10 minutes after Josh's fall, a party of 3 rounded the corner. They came and immediately started helping. They were better prepared and more experienced. One member set to isolating and restricting his arm with an ace bandage. Then they provided hot tea, hand warmers, gu, and IBUprofen, and another down jacket. After he was more comfortable and his legs cramping less, another member helped him up and supporting him from his good side, headed down the mountain. The other two and i divvied up the gear and followed. Josh was making good headway and we decided to continue down, knowing it would ease in the rescue. A party of 6 had passed us on our way down the hogsback and they had turned around now too. First down and catching us quickly was a guy with a radio. He was in contact with SAR and had heard the call on the radio. Between the four other climbers, me, and Josh, we managed to self evacuate from Devils Kitchen to the top of palmer with all the gear and injured climber intact by 11 o'clock. 10 minutes after arriving at the top of Palmer, SAR show up in a cat. Perfect timing! We all made it down safely and the awesome group effort made for a clean, well executed rescue. Josh is fine. Went to the ER and got his shoulder reset and is feeling great. Thanks a ton to Scott, Rod, Shannon, and Jeff for all your support, contributions, and bailing on finishing your climb to help us out. Thanks to Clackamas County Sherriff SAR and Reach and Treat for helping us down. If one of you who helped reads this report, Josh and I would appreciate getting your email addresses, so please e-mail at dawuda@gmail.com So, another accident on Hood, but as i said, Life is good, all are safe.

Anybody else getting out in the gorge on xmas day. I'm a newbie, never climbed Waterfall ice, but i got gear and even 3 long screws to add to the stash. I've got lots for rock and alpine experience. I'm in Hood River and finally got some time during all this awesome weather. Send me a PM if interested. 503-347-2671, voicemail only.

Trip: Mt Washington - North Ridge Date: 12/7/2008 Trip Report: Yesterday was gorgeous. Hoped today would be the same. I made some crack about jaunting up a peak to a inexperienced friend last night, and what do ya know, he bit and really really wanted to go. We headed up for Mt Washington early Sunday, made for a quick hike in. There is no snow at all on the trail until after you leave the PCT. We made quick time, but as we gained elevation, the weather conditions got worse and the wind started whipping. I was in approach shoes and neither of us had gear for snow or ice. As we got close to the tree line, the snow and ice got thick enough we had to kick steps. Seeing the conditions getting worse and imagining the wind on top, we made that wise decision and turned back. All and all, a good training day. Car to treeline and back in 4 hours. As i said, not much for snow, but i'd guess it got a little more today and tonight.

sorry guys, boss make me work last minute. I'm a no go after all.

I'm going to be at Smith this weekend without a partner. I'm a learning trad leader, leading up to 5.8, but i can follow 5.10. I have ropes, a rack, etc. I just want some time on the rock, so i'll even be a belay slave if need be. If interested, give me a call or PM me, thanks, dan 503-347-2671

hey, that's awesome. I'll let you know when the time gets closer if i'm still looking for someone. Thanks, dan

Hey, i'm going to yosemite in september. I have a partner i'm meeting there, but i'm driving a truck with 3 extra seat down and want to share gas. I'm looking at something around the 13th to the 21st of september. I live in Albany oregon, but can work with people from other areas/dates. PM me if interested.

Single climber seeking climber(s) open to trying fun routes. Must like to climb, have good gear. I'm in the Corvallis area and am the poor husband of a college student. If you're in the area and interested in some alpine or rock for a weekend and wanna car pool, send me a PM. I don't have any plans for climbs yet, but i'm tired of not climbing as often as i'd like due to lack people i know to climb with. So, here's my personal ad. Thanks!

sorry, no go and i'm very sad to say that sucks. Didn't find a partner, but that's ok, i'm in the middle of moving and things got busy.... but, if you're doing it and want a partner, give me a holler

I'm looking to climb Hood this saturday. I'm little out of shape, but push hard. Looking to do something besides standard south side, but not all opposed. Maybe Leutholds or Reid HW. PM me if interested