matchswain

Great advice. I suspected as much. They'll be on CL and eBay by tonight and I'll keep an eye out for something dedicated to alpine. Thanks for your replies...

In my dirtbag quest for the least expensive ice climbing gear, I ended up with a brand new (old style) Fusion (orange). I'll be climbing mostly alpine ice but would like to get into vertical, waterfall and mixed. I'm curious if it would work for the former well enough to try and find a second one, or if I should get rid of it and save my money for some Quarks, Cobras, Taa-k-oons, etc. Anybody have good things to say about climbing on the older Fusions? Thanks in advance.

Both are gone. Thanks for looking.

Boots are gone, jacket is still available.

Free to someone who can use them: Koflach Degre, size 12.5 I bought them at an REI garage sale and they're a bit too big. The liners had a funk, I washed them and the funk is mostly gone. I presume that a Mirazyme treatment would probably get it out altogether, or just put some new liners in them. They're definitely usable. OR Logic Jacket, size L. NOT from an REI garage sale (bought new). I was going to sell it but I'd prefer to give it to someone who may need it. Great condition. I'm in Tacoma and would prefer to do an in-person exchange, but we can work out shipping if you're too far away. Send me a PM. Thanks.

Shoes are gone. However, I'd like to give the jacket away for free...hopefully to someone who needs it and doesn't have a closet full of softshell coats. If you know someone who's just building their outdoor gear collection - or is climbing in threadbare gear (not by choice) - send me a PM.

Ahhh....thanks for pointing that out, I didn't realize it.

I stumbled across Herzog's "Scream of Stone" today; someone posted the entire movie online (albeit with Russian subtitles). For those who have always wanted to see more than 8 minutes of it and not on YouTube, here's your chance. EDIT: Pulled the link. Didn't realize it was pirated. Thanks Hugh.

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Great video. He did reply to a thread on the Black Diamond website that may answer some of your questions, quoted here ( and linked here) : "In response to a few of the questions: The helmet cam I used to shoot this is the "Contour HD" by a Seattle company called "VHoldr." The rope is the "6mm Alpine Personal Escape Rope," by Esprit Ropes in Toronto. It is an excellent rap/tag line I think. No special core - all nylon. It has a burly sheath. It is quite stiff, which is always a plus in super skinny ropes, because the stiff rap lines tangle less. The gloves are indeed the Torque Gloves - not super warm, but great dexterity. I had a pair of Punisher gloves in my jacket in case it got colder, but never had to use them. As for the one pitch where I belayed, it is a rudimentary technique, that in Yosemite is often referred to as "back-looping." The idea is to build a multi-directional anchor at the base of the questionable terrain, thread your rope through this anchor, attach yourself to both strands of the rope (whether with knots, hitches, or devices), and climb up, risking a factor 2 fall onto your anchor. The advantage over a traditional self-belay is that you can simply pull your rope up from above afterwards, rather than having to rappel down and prusik back up. If you are descending the same route that you are climbing (such as I was in this video), then you can clip both strands through intermediate pieces of protection (such as the cams I was placing in this video), because you know that you can retrieve them on your descent, to negate the possibility of taking a factor 2 fall. And just to be clear - this is NOT a safe, or accepted technique for self-belaying - it is a technique that I chose to use on a section of climbing that was only just barely hard enough that I wasn't comfortable free-soloing it. It is still "sketchy," and a guaranteed way to fail your UIAGM alpine exam!

For sale (or trade*): 5.10 V10 slippers, size 12. $70/shipped. These are the version without the rubber on top of the foot. I've worn them a few times around the house, and three times in the gym, which consisted of me spending 10 minutes getting them on my foot, walking on my heels to the route, climbing the route unable to see through the tears of pain, then coming down to take them off as soon as I could bend down to do so. They are TIGHT. Maybe they'll stretch for you. Or maybe you're just tougher than me. I'm a 12 street shoe and I wear a 43 in the Mythos, for reference. They even smell brand new (think tennis ball). Outdoor Research Logic Jacket. Worn probably 15 times. It's in great shape. There is some pilling at the neck seam and inside near the middle of the back, and a couple very faint spots of dirt, one on the lower front stomach, on the inside neck and on the back. They will probably disappear with a wash. $45. *Things I'm looking for: cams, ice axe (Raven Ultra, Air Tech, etc.), Guide gloves, other... Thanks.

Do any of you seam-seal your boots? Is it overkill on the Nepal EVO's?

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Lost a pair of Atlas snowshoes from my pack somewhere on the ridge near the bottom of the northeast buttress of Chair Peak on Sunday...if anyone finds them and wants to return them, you'll have my never ending thanks (and probably some beer). Thanks.

UPDATE: Glasses and hat are gone. Thanks for looking. It's rare, but I occasionally end up with gear I don't use. I think someone can probably put these items to use, so I'm giving them away. I'll even ship them to you at my cost (continental US only, Ground of course). First PM gets them. -Spy Sonix sunglasses. Worn maybe 10 times. I'd call them "REI orange." Two interchangeable lenses (one dark and one orange) and a fancy case/box (it's big) included. Oh and some strange sweat-shield that I never liked. This is the best link I can find. http://www.surfeyes.com/acatalog/Spy-Sonix-Sunglasses-Matt-Orange-Silver-SOOM15G.html I'll even wipe the fingerprints off of the lenses. -Backcountry.com softshell baseball cap, size L/XL It's like this but with the BC goat instead of "Stoic": http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Stoic-Softshell-Baseball-Hat-Mens/SIC0033M.html Tried on once, tags still attached, will make you look like you drink copious amounts of "Monster" since it's got that flat brim, XGames style. Peace.

Hijacking Kozak's thread here....anyone been up the trade route (aka Beckey) on Liberty Bell in the past few days? Planning to head up Thursday and wonder how the route looks for snow, conditions, etc. Thanks.

Anyone know of some good skinny single or half rope deals right now?

I'm finally getting the opportunity to get into ice climbing and I need to build an ice rack. I'd like to start with three screws at first (either BD Express or Grivel 360). For moderate alpine ice in the Cascades, what lengths are best? One 22cm (for anchors) and two 16cm? Or am I way off on this (maybe 16cm is too short)? This would be assuming my partner is also carrying screws. Also may be interested in some used ice tools if you've got any collecting dust. Thanks.

I'm helping a friend train for a Mt. Adams climb in late July and she needs boots. Like anyone, she doesn't want to pay $250+/pair, especially before she knows if she wants to continue with mountaineering. I know rentals are an option (and plastics may be overkill for Adams in the summer) but I'm curious if anyone has a pair of boots collecting dust (woman size 8)? PM if you are eager to sell. And thanks in advance.

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The banner said "BC-STV", which I presume is a reference to the transferable vote referendum that's up for voting in May. Seems an interesting but visible way to get out the vote...

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