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mountainmandoug

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Everything posted by mountainmandoug

  1. I have a set up that I use for this purpose, made from a knotted nylon sling. I generally keep slack out of it, and I will be more diligent to do so in the future. I think when attaching yourself to an anchor with slings it's probably best to just lean against them the whole time if you can. I am contemplating the merits of perhaps making a new personal anchor out of some dynamic rope for these purposes.
  2. One remark about the expense of guide services. If you take up mountaineering you will spend wayyyyyyy more than that on gear in the next couple of years. Hiring the guide service and renting the toys is much cheaper than going on your own in the grand scheme of things.
  3. There are certainly those who think we are obviously fucking crazy and stupid for climbing mountain, sometimes I wonder if they are right although I hope not. From reading this website I think many people would draw the conclusion that climbers are generally assholes.
  4. If the "RanierGroup" is authentic and not actually a troll, they should have gone about this project by simply asking for experienced climbers to help them out rather than blatantly proposing an illegal activity. If they had done so they might even have heard from some guides willing to work under the table, but as it is no one in there right mind would want to work for them now. On the other hand it sounds like Dan might be up for helping them out, and he's certainly capable. And there might be others who would do so, if I wasn't so busy this year (darn job) I'd consider it. Illegally guiding the DC rout on Ranier would be rather foolish, sort of like trying to sell drugs in the parking lot of a police station. Anyhow, if this is an honest inquiry I hope that you do find some experienced climbers to make the trip happen for you, and I hope you all have a good time and stay safe. Please don't go climb the thing without knowing what you are doing, the park service already has enough of those people to deal with. And here's a bit of free advice: Don't post about illegal activities on the internet.
  5. I once baked calzones on a whisperlite, and made a cobbler out of stewed dried fruit for dessert. I guess that was probably the prize-winner for taste, although it ended up messing with my stomach that night....
  6. Some climbers report that a number 6 is worth owning purely as a weapon to discipline the unruly, something to consider when you contemplate buying one.
  7. I love my 9.2 Stearling Nano. I also very much like the 8.4mm Duetto and I've gone climbing on there 10.4 craigging rope and I think that's probably what I will get after I wear out my Biel fatty. I've climbed on Mammut 10mm Galaxy and thought it was very fine, and I love my friends 9.5mm Mammut. The Genesis 8.5mm doubles are sweet as well.
  8. I have loved Mammut and Stearling the most. Get either one and you won't regret it.
  9. No, my typo, 7-7:30ish, most Tuesdays. Maybe we can try to spread the word for next week.
  10. I know this is kind of late notice but I'll be headed down there shortly. I had to work late today but I usually get there around 7-2:30.
  11. I'm a fairly regular attender of the Green Frog on Tuesdays, when the pints are $3. Why not just make that the usual climbers hang-out?
  12. I'd be interested in what the gullies look like.
  13. It sounds like the general technique is to admit that you will get wet, and try to absorb as little moisture as possible. Using synthetic insulation to try and dry out your wet gear. Managing your body temperature, sweat, moisture ingress is really the crux of the operation. Notes about freezing weather. When I have soaked shell layers and I expect it to freeze overnight I usually put them in some sort of waterproof bag and put them under my sleeping bag so they don't freeze. You might want to check out http://www.aktrekking.com/gear.html. These folks have more experience in the wet and cold than anyone I know of.
  14. I agree that actually climbing anything technical in the rain is a bad idea. Over on the Peninsula we used to divert trips to Old Olympic hot springs when the weather sucked. I highly recommend hot springs as a rain-camping accessory.
  15. I've spent a lot of days out in the weather you described. I used to do SAR on the Olympic Peninsula, and I've backpacked in the rain quite a bit. Down sleeping bags take quite a bit of managing in wet weather. Shelters are key. Small tents suck in prolonged rain. Big tarps and pyramid floorles shelters are the ticket. Not having a floor means you can go under the shelter in all of your wet raingear and boots, than take it all off, without getting your other gear wet in the process and without making a puddle on a tent floor. Combine one of these shelters with a bivy with a breathable top and a waterproof bottom and it's possible to keep a down bag dry pretty well in a long stretch of rain. Clothing should be all synthetic. Wool absorbs more water and takes longer to dry. Down clothing will get wet and fail. A warm synthetic parka with hood will let you dry out your damp clothing underneath. Wearing very little synthetic clothing under a hardshell seems to be the ticket. Sweat is a problem so you need to stay cool. A wide-brimmed hat is way better than a hood. The only gloves I've ever like for this weather is neoprene. The only boots I've ever like for this weather were all-leather with good waterproofing. I find that you mostly keep moving during the day until you get to camp, than you pitch that big shelter and get under it. You take off the waterproofs and put on all of your insulated clothing and fire up the stove. You use hot drinks and food to ramp up your core temperature and metabolism to dry out your clothes. You than un-pack your sleeping gear and carefully set it up. You take off the insulated clothing and crawl into your bag nice and dry. In the morning you crawl part way out of your bag and put on your parka. You cook in your bag and get your metabolism fired up. Than you get up and pack the sleeping gear, pack everything else up, than get out of your shelter and take it down, packing it in such a way that it doesn't wet the rest of your gear. I've found that pack covers fail in prolonged rain. Personally I've gone to all seam-taped stuff sacks to keep my gear dry. The one for the down bag has a roll-top. Synthetic sleeping bags will let you dry some wet gear overnight in the bag. If you carry one that is markdly warmer than needed you can crawl into it all wet in the evening and wake up dry in the morning with little injury to your sleeping system. They tend to be heavy though.
  16. Sounds like folding bicycles would be in order. On a weekend I imagine hitch hiking, either via thumb or via hanging out talking to people, would be effective.
  17. Hope I can make it. I might even bring skis this year.
  18. So I have a question for those who have been teli skiing long enough to know about such things. I picked up a second-hand set of skis today and stuck some three-pin binding on to try them out (they had the holes already from the previous owner). I noticed that they had a tendency to tip-dive more than I am used to. I'm fairly sure that the binding is mounted in the conventional place. I have a set of wedges designed to mount under a three-pin or other flat telemark binding, which I have read were created to help this problem. I can't figure out how they would help though, it seems like they would just push the tip down more. I suppose the other thing that might help would be to re-mount with the bindings either forward or back a bit? Any advice would be appreciated.
  19. They seem to have some direct source of Tendon ropes at Alpine Ascents International in Bellingham. I fondled some interesting cords when I stopped by the gear shop last week.
  20. Anyone know how long Steph's show usually runs? I'd guess an hour or so. That would mean the Green Frog at around 7:30 say?
  21. I guess you'll recognize me because I'm the one with a beard and no glasses, so we'll have all of the combinations covered. Green and black mountain hardwear fleece is usually my uniform, and people say I look like a climber, whatever that means...
  22. I'll be at Steph's show as well, and I'd be totally up for going out for a beer afterwards. My vote would be for the Green Frog, especially since on Tuesdays the pints are all $3.
  23. I do know that BD claims the reason that they don't put double slings on there cams is because it would weaken them relative to the sling set-up that they come with.
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