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ddpeterson

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  1. The weather is always the crux in the Bugaboos. From August 25th to the 31st my partner and I traveled up to the Bugaboos for our first time. We had hoped to Climb the Kain, the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire and the Beckey/Chouinard on South Howser Tower, but the snow and ice kept us from some of our goals. For a full trip report with photos and video, check out http://drews-adventures.blogspot.com The short of it... -The road is in good condition... typical logging road conditions. -The approach really is not very fun. 3 miles? It felt like 10. Pack as light as possible. -It wasn't crowded; the weather probably scared people away. -The Col was in terrible condition; rockfall was common and unavoidable and the 'shrund was long and wide. -We used double ropes; really helped us when we had to bail from the top of the NE Ridge and rap down the East Face. -La Sportiva Trango S Evo boots are the perfect boots for the Bugaboos. My feet did get cold, but then again my whole body was cold. They climb really well on rock. -Expect snow in the Bugaboos in August. -If you are planning on climbing anything in the Bugaboos... try and get up and down by 1:00pm. You could almost keep time by the weather. All in all it was a great trip, and if it wasn't for the horrid weather we would've been able to accomplish our goals. I think we've scored some good weather points for our next trip
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