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Moof

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Everything posted by Moof

  1. I've the three brands I know of: Yates: Work great, expect to replace the webbing (avaialble from Fish) after a 2-3 walls when it gets fuzzy. The beefy buckle is not well deburred, and taking a little sandpaper to the corner the webbing runs over when you do get around to your first webbing replacement. The length is marginally short, I am only 5'9" and when I am tippy toed out I use EVERY inch of it. Fish: Same buckle as Yates, but the girth hitch loop is very long (12") which betending on how you use it can really limit your security when in you are in your second steps, forcing the us of a fifi at times. Metolius: Much smaller webbing, and I hate them. Unlike the Fish and Yates you CANNOT release them under significant tension. During traversing moves you REALLY want to be able to clip the next piece, then lower out onto the next daisy from your last piece. Metolius doesn't work well here. In my case I use homemade russian aiders, so I really don't use the daisy except at vertical or past, but I don't use a fifi at all.
  2. Howdy, I haven't done a ton, but I've managed to get up WFLT twice and the Prow once. I've had a few bails mixed in there too, once off WFLT due to high heat, once more chickening out while solo. Also bailed off the Prow twice, once when my partner wore cotton, got wet and therefore cold, once more when I came down with the flu half way up. Lastly I bailed off Mideast Crisis after mashing a couple fingers on a whipper. Not a great resume, but I can haul, lead, and clean. I'm not the fastest, but not the slowest either. Presently Mideast Crisis, Tangerine Trip, and Lurking Fear are near the top of the tick list, but I'm more than happy to tag along on something harder if I don't have to aid harder than A2/C2 or lead worse than 5.8. I have lots of gear too, portaledges, haul bags, triples or better on cams up to #4, offset aliens, etc. Basically almost anything needed to get up any mostly clean wall.
  3. Got a good look at Pipeline when we did Birds of Prey. Someday I really want to be in shape to go back to that thing. Cirque of the uncrackables has a number of good OW's, and other BURLY climbs. We spent a day up there getting our asses kicked, and ended up sore for at least 3 days. Scimitar, 5.11, I shamelessly liebacked and dogged my sorry but up it. March of the Kitchen Utensiles, 5.9, my first true spanking by an OW I couldn't blame on the rating, just that I sucked. Ivan Meets GI Joe, 10a, not an OW. I replaced the bolts on this a few days after we did it, they were scare ass rusty Leaper's. No funkness required to get the old ones out... Bop Till You Drop, not OW, but burly fun overhung fistjams through the lip, followed by a steadily narrowing crack down to fingers by the anchor. Burly. Also not OW, but fun when waiting in line at Smith, Rattlesnake Chimney. Worth it for the look on peoples faces alone.
  4. Yowza! If you were indeed in the process of clipping that last bolt, it is a pretty scary place to fall! I've always placed a cam at the start of the traverse and "went for it". Whatever "it" is.
  5. I'm looking fro anyone that might have Jeff's email, or equivalent. I had a blast climbing with him in Squamish a few years back. At least as of 2003 he was based out of Bend, OR. I've moved into the general vicinity and want to look him up and buy him a beer. The crusty dude climbs damn good for a geezer.
  6. I've got a 60m Axis, though I thought mine was 10.6mm, can't remember. Definately cable, but works just fine, it's been moderately abused on trad and some aid trips. No complaints, but definately cable compared to most.
  7. If you need a bolting slave, give a hollar. I've probably replaced about a half dozen bolts in various places (squamish, cosumnes river gorge, don't remember where else). I'd be up for trading off hammer duty, being a belay slave, or whatever. I've got some SS fixe hangers and SS rawl's could also chip in. I didn't get to do some planned bolt replacement before I moved away...
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