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SlickWilly

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Everything posted by SlickWilly

  1. Anyone live in Fremont/Ballard (area around Ballard Grill/Fred Meyer)? Any idea what the hell that helicopter-like sound is that has been going on all day? Mystery...
  2. Trip: Capitol Hill - West Face - Denny Couloir Date: 12/21/2008 Trip Report: This couloir rarely comes into condition, so we ignored the newscasters' instructions to "hunker down" and jumped at the chance to ski it. The approach was pretty mellow - we made a traverse across 14th where we would drop in to the couloir. On the traverse: The top part of the couloir is low angle and good, fun cruising: Red light - approaching the goods: Waiting for my turn to drop in: Shredding the goods: My partner kept choking on the deep, dry, fluffy pow and was glad she brought her Avalung: The couloir has kind of a sketchy runout (traffic on Stewart), so we stopped just short of the end: Putting the skins on for the climb back up: Climbing back up: Skis > Cadillac: My posse's on Broadway: We took the direct route through Cal Anderson to get back home, encountering some strange mountain adventurers: Gear Notes: Skis, skins, poles. Approach Notes: Good skinning, the track is well established. Watch out for cars, drunken sledders, and melted out manhole covers.
  3. Yellow Alien (or yellow Metolius or Yellow C3), Red Alien (or purple C4 .5), and green C4 .75
  4. I have the day off and would like to go cragging - Exit 38, Index, etc. Looking for someone in Seattle so we can drive together. If you send a PM, please reply here letting me know.
  5. Looking to spend the afternoon cragging on Saturday. Experienced, safe, dont mind leading, etc. as long as you are a safe belayer. Would plan on leaving town late Saturday morning and getting back at a reasonable hour later Saturday evening. If you send me a PM, please give me a heads-up that you've done so here on this thread.
  6. Enough with the Dean Potter hating. He is not a bad guy. And as far as his climbing goes, he has and continues to push it and redefine what is possible. He inspires - that is what climbing is really all about. And going out on a limb - so what about his DA solo? He climbed a rock. Yes, yes - I know he should have been more aware of the consequences, but the rules and regulations are the problem. Kinda backwards that there are roads all the way to the base of Delicate Arch and big paved parking lots, a trail carved into the rock to get people there, but its not OK if Dean climbs it without leaving a trace? Arches seems to be set up only for people driving through and taking pictures - its almost as if the NPS would prefer that you not get out of your car. Yes, when I climb in Arches I follow the rules and regulations and try to be on my best behavior. But I still think the rules and regulations are a bit extreme.
  7. Word - you nailed it. The bolt is warranted and a welcome addition IMHO. Thanks Backcountrydog for the work.
  8. Yeah, but I dont consider it a problem. I like it there.
  9. Lime Kiln Canyon http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Utah/St__George/Lime_Kiln_Canyon/
  10. Please do not clip your Nalgene bottle to your harness using the the little plastic lid retainer. The lid retainer is meant to keep you from losing the lid - it is not meant to support the weight of a full water bottle. You will eventually lose your water bottle, which could cause you to become thirsty...and the water bottle might kill someone as it rockets down the cliff. Really not trying to sound like a jerk - its a simple mistake that a lot of people just might not think about, but it is a simple mistake that could kill or seriously injure someone.
  11. Some people just have no idea how tough specialty retail can be. And Randonnee, I think it is lame and totally out of line to call the sheriff and try to bash a shop online - but it sounded like maybe you had good reason to be frustrated. But once you started into John Race - one of the nicest, most humble guys I've had the pleasure of hanging out with, who was very diplomatic and made no attempt to tear into you - well, lets just say you're really showing your true colors. Hopefully LMS has learned something from this - hopefully you have too.
  12. I've done it twice recently and nobody asked any questions. I was still a little nervous about it, but I made sure I had enough time to check it if they shut me down. Bring a climbing magazine with you too - might help to show them what all of that stuff is if they start asking questions (most TSA employees will have no idea what a cam is).
  13. SLC #1 1. Lots, right outside of town. Go to: http://mountainproject.com/v/utah/wasatch_range/105739213 All of these areas no more than 45min from town, and most are about 20min from town. 2. Moab=3h45min, Zion=4h30min, City of Rocks=2h30min, Red Rocks=6h, Maple=1h30min, St. George=4h, Uintas=1h, Tetons=4h, Winds=3h30min, Wild Iris=3h30min, Logan Canyon= 1h15min, Lander=4h, Sawtooths=6h. Longer range - Tuolumne/Yosemite=10/11h, Joshua Tree=9h30min, ... 3. Lots. Year-round. In winter, most of the climbing you'll be doing right outside of town will be in LCC on south facing granite. But winter weekends in the desert are often perfect. 4. Yes, very much so. Big mountains with decent relief (town is about 4,500 ft - peaks a few miles to the east are above 11,000 ft) form the eastern edge of town. To the west, there are the Oquirrhs - high and above treeline but less dramatic than the Wasatch (not unlike a lot of the CO mountains). 5. Dont let all of the rumors scare you off. Town is actually pretty cool, and the climbing community is great. It aint Seattle, but it is way better than a lot of people think. Something to think about: When living in Boulder, I sure do recall making a lot of long drives to Utah to go climbing. When living in Utah, I don't recall ever driving to Colorado to go climbing.
  14. I believe the climber fell off of the Sword and hit the belay ledge at the top of the Split Pillar.
  15. How bad is this road? Would it be a problem with a standard 4wd pickup?
  16. All that will do is get areas shut down to ALL kinds of climbing and bring about further ridiculous regulations.
  17. Is anything worth climbing? There are 2 huts - one at the parking area and one a short hike in. One way or another, they're both more or less at the base of the mountain. Of course, there is more than one way up the mountain, and if you want to be away from huts, etc. you could certainly go up one of the less traveled routes. Also, be aware that conditions have changed dramatically over the past few years, so route descriptions may or may not be accurate.
  18. Why? Are you getting into offwidths or somethin'? Or did your girlfriend piss you off recently?
  19. That sucks. Tyree, check your PMs.
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