grandpa

I took the "crack school" (crevase rescue) by IMG this summer, and it was well done, and worth the money/time. We spent one day learning and practicing knots, techniques and and the general idea of it all, then the following day we spent on a large cornice working out various problems. Particularly interesting to me was the fact that a snow anchor actually works, and works well. I'm accustomed to dry, powdery winter snow that you can't make a snowball with and couldn't imagine packing any snow tight enough to hold anything, but it works. I have to admit that I originally imagined (hoped for) doing the practical part in a crevasse, but in hindsight that would not have been a well thought out idea. Doing it over the side of a 40-50' cornice with a easy runout at the bottom gave us the chance to practice without the hazard of being in a crevasse. So I say it's good info to have, no matter who you select, but I give IMG in Ashford a full thumbs up.

Try IMG (360-569-2609), I'd bet they're in the office...

Check your PM.

Anyone here have an opinion on the equipment manufactured and sold by "Gear4Rocks" in the Ukraine? Their prices are about 1/2 of the well-known brands, but that difference is nothing when compared to a broken foot/leg/neck if they are not as well built.

Fine tr, and a nice read. I wish I knew how to ski...

I used them last summer, and can't say enough good about all 4 guides, and the service. It was apparent to me early on that they knew what they were doing, and they conveyed it to a bunch of "unknown" noobs quite well, so that we (at least I) knew what we were expected to do, and how, and why. If you want to make it right at least for the first time, spend the $1300 and go with them. They make it into a 3 day trip (vs RMIs 2 days), and your odds of coming back alive are greatly increased by going with someone that knows what they're doing, and has ready access to emergency communications (two-way radio and sat-phone if needed) instead of someone who really would prefer to NOT have anyone know they were up there. That was money WELL spent for my first trip up the mountain. And, I wouldn't hesitate to use them again.

What does "hybrid" crampon compatibility mean? Straps, and not clamps? I'm soon buying my first set of true mountaineering boots, and before I get out west to go searching through the stores, I want to have some idea of what I'm looking for. These look so light as compared to the double plastics I rented last summer (which were indeed a bit of a pain, but my feet didn't get cold) Thanks, all

I seem to recall something like that also, but a "screwdriver adjustment" in the heel of a boot? Seems iffy to me, and I'm not able to imagine what it might do, but I've not seen one, so I ask.

Any experience with these particular boots, or even the brand in general? Somehow this "adjustable stiffness" looks to me like a potential problem just waiting to happen.

Check PM for details, I have one for ya if still needed.

Hilleberg Nammatj a good choice?

Check PM, Cesar.

check your email

Ah, ha! Got it, and thank you! Yup, dinosaur here too. I summited my first mountain (Rainier) ever this summer the day after my 61st birthday, and that business of switching the axe from hand to hand with the leash was a bit of a nuisance at first. I wondered if there was a better way to do it, but I was too busy watching where I was going while on the "path" to watch the guide, or anyone else, so I just kept at it and was cuatious at first, then it became more natural by the time we hit the crater. Thanks for the explanation.

I've been following this thread with some interest so as to learn something useful, but I don't follow the statement "originate from the opposite side of the axe head" very well. Could you paint a more detailed verbal picture for me? The "opposite side" statement is what's causing the confusion to me as the opposite side obviously changes as the axe is changed from hand to hand. My axe has a leash that attaches to the handle by a ring, and will slide up/down between the head and a cap screw in the handle and it swivels around the handle. Thanks in advance...

I'll go along with the $$$ spent in the mountains being worth FAR more than a TV, etc. Besides, I've already spent a bunch getting ready to climb Rainier, so now I need to show my wife "what're you going to do with all that stuff now that you've done that?" The pack/boots/weights bit in the gym doesn't raise an eyebrow (now), most everyone either knows what "that old guy" is doing, or doesn't notice. I also load it up and do "flights of stairs" on the stair climber. That helped a lot this summer also. 100+ flights of stairs with 30lbs on the back and 4-5lbs on each foot is a good workout. You may want to ask first just to be considerate, but I'll bet the gym will not have a problem with you working out with a pack. I rarely see that here, but occasionally I see someone with a pack on doing laps on the track. Never anyone (but me) on the machines that I've noticed.

Before you climb Shuksan, go to a local crag somewhere. Maybe Exit 38, or Index, or Leavenworth, or... Gym climbing is related to outdoor climbing, but there's a lot of difference. It's not hard to find holds, usually, but it's different, and they're more camouflaged than at the gym. That's the biggest thing, along with the fact that mountains don't smell like body odor. Also you don't wear a pack at the gym, might find yourself in boots or even crampons, etc. It's wise to get some practice much closer to the car before you summit the big peak. Excellent suggestion(s). Shuksan is on my "to do someday" list, and for certain I'll not be going without someone who actually knows what they're doing. I have IMG in mind, they were excellent this past summer on Rainier. And, I realize that paying a grand for a short trip is an expensive way to go about it, but I'm 1000 miles away, and don't know anyone out there (well no one that's interested in climbing anyway), well enough to go with a "local". I'm already working on the climbing with a pack at the gym, also with hiking boots and 2lb weights around my ankles (been doing that occasionally for several months now). And can you believe it, no red/blue/green/purple/yellow rocks out in the real climbing world? Exit 38, Index, etc all sound intriguing, I'll have to investigate next time we're out there. Exit 38 must be a few miles east of the highway 18 exit on 90? Thanks to all.

Same here, and I tell folks about it!

Well, it's been a while, like maybe 45 years or so, but I used to do a bit of scrambling on various surfaces - mostly where I should not have been - but point well taken. Sounds like a good reason to bring a dab of good Scotch (some Balvenie, perhaps?) along, to assist in the "chit-chat" afterward... Thanks, all.

Ok, that's encouraging. I can muddle my way up a 5.10 (occasionally) in our gym, but what that means in the real world, I guess I'll not know until I give it a go. I'm also wondering just how does one determine, or decide upon a particular rating? It doesn't seem like there are any measurements to compare to like in my world (electronics) where everything is measured with some degree of accuracy and precision. Thanks for the replies, guys. If/when I accomplish this one, I'll yammer on about it here.

Ok, for a (vague) reference point, what might the YDS rating on the summit pyramid of Shuksan be? And whether this would legitimately equate to anything I can do in the gym, I don't know, but I gotta start somewhere. Having never been up there. I have no idea, but it's "on my list" of things to do before I can't, so I ask...

I'll take 'em. check PM for details.

Deleted by me. Got my answer(s) elsewhere.

Well, I am no expert on ropes, but I do know that fuel is a solvent, and ropes are made of synthetic material(s), so I'd be cautious about using it again, not knowing what, if any damage has occurred. An interesting possibility: http://www.summitpost.org/so-you-want-to-make-a-rope-rug-eh/263578