Iain, I'd be surprised if the PJ's had not gotten some squared away climbers and were working with them, sounds like you were part of that team. So I guess I'd ask you what you thought of them? Are they pro's or not? What would you suggest as the way to improve these types of Ops.
My suggestion of utilising these types of military as rescue leaders is that they have the main resources to get the mission done (aircraft, people, medics, pilots, surveilance equipment, medical supplies ...not to mention - authority) and they have the training and practice of selecting and work with local & technical experts to assist.
My observations were regarding the command structure & mission effectiveness, certainly not the individual rescuers. With all respect intended; I struggle to see how an MRT or a sheriffs dept has the resources to do this stuff.