cheamclimber
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Posts posted by cheamclimber
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Trip: Harrison - Labour Days to P2
Date: 5/4/2008
Trip Report:
On Sunday my friend Mike, Reinhard and I went to Harrison Bluffs to check out the A. Dunlop J. Macdonald route called Labour Days. It goes right to the top of the main face (Falcon Wall) and the crux is 5.10+. I camped out on Saturday night and went tofind the base of the route early on Sunday Morning. When Mike and Reinhard showed up we hiked up to the base of the climb. P1 was in a horrendous state, the first two thirds of it were basically a garden, but I racked up and started kicking steps up the dirt and pulling on gear where it was too slimy to grab. I made it up to the crux and balanced on a little ledge where I changed to rock shoes, I placed a cam and started into the 5.8 stemming crux but it was dirty and I couldn't do it. I finally decided to tension traverse left over an arete into a layback crack that I took to the belay tree near the top of the corner. After bringing Reinhard and Mike up it was decided that Mike would start cleaning P1 while I led P2 and Reinhard and I cleaned it. P2 started with a layback around a block then turned into easy slab climbing up weird depressions. Unfortunately P2 was also dirty and I couldnt find any pro placements so I had to do a 50ft runout to the top of the pitch while running up the slab before the moss peeled off on me. Reinhard followed the pitch quickly and we both started cleaning the pitch. Mike did some scrubbing down on P1 but soon rapped to the base and went home. Me and Reinhard cleaned the entire P2 and then rapped down and went home.
I decided to go back today and armed myself with a shovel and garden hoe to aid my cleaning efforts. I quickly reached the base of the route and stared soloing P1. I got to the 5.8 crux but it was still a bit dirty and I didnt feel good soloing it so I put in three peices and did the tension travese then free soloed up to the tree. I managed to get some pictures and clean off the entire upper section and the crux of P1. However, I had my boots clipped to my harness and one lace came untied and I watched in horror as one of my 320$ boots plummeted earthward. The forest leading up to the route is not flat it is a network of steepish gullies running up through the forest, I saw my boot dissapear down one of the gullies and I finished cleaning and rapped down. I couldnt do the regular walk off from the base because my boot was down one of the gulleys so I set a rappel off a tree and started down the gully I saw my boot fall into. Luckily it had been caught between a tree and a bush 50ft down and I managed to get it and put it back on. I finally got back to the parking lot and went home at 8:30. Labour Days looks like an excellent route and the only pitches that really need cleaning are the first two.. now I get to go back and clean the lower section of P1 tomorrow! Yay!
My pics are coming soon!
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lots of people thought lots of people were anti christs, Hitler and Raegan and Hussien to name a couple. Thinking Hitler was anti christ makes sense though
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Me and Marc Leclerc are one schizophrenic being
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Hhfmxg4j0kg
Miss you - 54-40
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heres the link cuz the vid wont work for some reason
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"Sweet Emotion"
Aerosmith! Jaded is another great one!
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I forgot... 'never gonna give you up' by Rick Astley
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This is the perfect cure for a bad mood!
aqyIpwhXXrk
Any way you want it- journey
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i can do it slowly but im really finding it hard to increase speed and improve how clean it sounds..
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Why re us french people called frogs??? Maybe cuz we like to eat frog legs... is that it?
No, it's because we use them for vivisection in seventh grade biology classes.
Tu et un homosexuel...
im only second generation french, so im not that good at it
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I think this is the most responses Ive got on a thread of mine... I think I got 5 or so real answers... I guess it is cc tho
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the rest is just window dressing.
yup
Meghan Fox is sooooo hot!
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It seems like there are quite a few guitarists on this forum so I want to ask a question...
does anybody have any good tips for sweep picking, like how to improve technique, worthwhile excercises, how to increase speed, and getting better sound. Thanks!
Marc
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"O, Fortuna!"
YEAH! thats such a cool song to listen too super loud
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If I havent climbed it yet when I die I think my casket should be hauled up the nose
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hes funny but dumb at the same time... too much and he becomes just dumb
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When it hurts, cut it off.
It would suck to get a headache
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any way you want it- journey... i dont know why but that song rocks
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IMO chemistry is really hard I find.... physics and bio arent that bad.. thats for grd 11 tho
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when im super angry I go out in town and free solo some buildings, theres some building that are like 75ft tall with cracks all the way to the top.. great hand jam practice, sometimes the cops come but its not like they can get you up there, usually you can down climb on the other side and run... plus if the climb is too strenous you can just aid it with two cams of the same size
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did he climb it barefoot?
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why???? are you going to get the first ski desent or non-free solo ascent?
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I like snowboarding and skiing, my first time skiing I jumped off a cliff like I would on a board and ended up falling 100ft down the hill... it was hilarious. I think doing both is good cuz you can board on the hill and then ski in the backcountry.
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Why re us french people called frogs??? Maybe cuz we like to eat frog legs... is that it?
Sport beater rope recommendations
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
My Maxim rope actually held up to heavy use quite well... but it did get kinda stiff like a static cord afer a while. Mammut rope IMO handle the nicest and are your best bet...