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cheamclimber

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  1. Trip: Cheam Peak's Sub Peak (Red Tower) - south face-ish type thing Date: 6/2/2007 Trip Report: Today me (14) and my friend Lorne (17)went up Red Tower (1400m). It's the promint Sub Peak than ends the North Ridge of the mountain. kk..time for the TR, Lorne came and picked me up from my house at 6:30 AM and we set off for Mt, Cheam. To reach the NW face of Cheam there is a small road that branches off of Highway#1 East shortly after the Bridal Falls exit. A ways up the road there is a creek/washout that crosses the road. We branched off the road here to reach the dranage creek running from the Angel. We followed the creek until the creek turns into a series of large cliffs. Just before the cliffs we branched to our left out of the gully to a ridge of trees that runs into the Angel (the everlasting snowpack below the Nw face). We hiked up the ridge of trees wich seemed to last forever but when we could see that we were near the Angel we turned back into the ully and climbed tho snow into the Angel. We could see the Sub-Peak which looked incredibly steep and horrible but kept going, there was a long snow slope branching left out of the Angel towards the Sub-Peak and we climbed that until it ended. Right at the end of the snow the hill turned into a steep cliff of fairly solid rock. The cliff was only about a 100ft tall and was incredibly easy climbing we topped out in a couple of minutes and entered the obvious split that divides the North ridge from the Sub-Peak. We left our gear on a rock out of the way of falling rock and started climbing up the split. In the splt there is a lot of really loose rock and you have to stay either right together or let one person take cover while the other climbs. We climbed up the split until we reached a tiny peice of snow and started climbing south-facish type thing od the sub-peak. The sub-peak is basically a lump of loose and crappy rock and if a riny rock is dislodged a good sized rockfall wll occur almost every time. After a bit of class 3 climbing we reached a flat spot topped by a steep part of the Peak. We carefully climbed the peice and when I put my head over the top i was looking straight dow the North Ridge at Highway#1. We had reached the top, I phoned my parents to tell them we had rerached the summit and took our summit pictures. We very carefully climbed down the steep section and descended back into the split. Once we had picked up our gear and were back in snow we glissaded down into the Angel and then slid until we had to head back onto the ridge of trees. It took forever but eventually we were back in the creek and then back at the car. The entire trip took about 8 hrs but could have been done faster (or slower). ^Lorne in front of the Sub Peak^ ^me on the sub peak^ ^In the split^ ^Me on the Summit^ ^The first cliff^ ^The Sub Peak (loose rock or what)^ ^The NW face of Cheam^ ^Looking West in the Angel^ Gear Notes: All I took was my ice-ax but I can understand if you wanted a rope because of loose rock.(be very careful of loose rock)
  2. um okay...ive hiked this route in the summer enough times to know that I wont need a ladder, skis, two different types of boots, a cam, or arrows.
  3. hey, I recently found a new route into that area from jones lake. you go to the end of the gravel road below the north face of stewart, make a long traverse through the bowl beneath stewart, hike to the southeast ridge and at some piont you can break into the bowl between baby munday and stwart and still. shorter but much more technical than the hike in from airplane creek.
  4. Hey, has anybody climbed the West Ridge of Cheam Peak in the winter via the ridge from Archibald. I just wanted to know if I should expect any extra challenges present in the winter (not in the summer, its a cakewalk then), if there is alot of exposure of not and what gear I should bring. If you can help me, thanks alot.
  5. i forgot to make the date say 2005...back then there was no logging
  6. Trip: Welch Peak - SoutheastFace/East Ridge Date: 9/4/2006 Trip Report: I decided that this would be a nice climb to do on the day before school started again, me and my friends Lorne, Vivian, Allan and Diana left at 6:30 AM and arrived at the Williamson Lake trailhead at 7:45 AM. We took the trail fairly slowly winding up and around the bowl to williamson lake. Welch from the trailhead.The East ridge being the right skyline. I din't really want to climb the South ridge as it is a bit boring and lacking of challenge. We arrived at Williamson Lake a wshort while later and stopped to play in the giant boulders and chase marmots for a while,Allan, Diana and I started up the scree leading to the Welch/Foley col and Lorne and Vivian, While compeletely capable of climbing to the peak stayed behind to hand out at the Lake. I decided to play on some of the ugly cliffs on the south face and then branched back onto the scree, we reached the snowpack on top of the glacier and scoped out the mountain for a fun route. I chose the southeasterly face because it offered the most variety of climbing and better looking rock. I took the lead and and played around on the face while Allan led Diana around the more difficult spots. For the most part the climbing was the higher end of class 3 and a lot of fun class 4 options. One highlight of the climb was when I decided to try to climb this 15 ft near vertical step three quarters up the face, of coure the rock turned out to be crap and I got stuck in the middle of the cliff nad had to back out. We eventually aquired the south summit and started up towards the true summit, at one point the ridge becomes knife edge and while the route is easier on the south side of the mountain, me being me went on to the North side of the mountain (dumb choice)looking way down on the Still I made a tricky really exposed and freaky traverse/ascent to the summit where I met Allan and Diana (who had taken the right way). Not feeling like descending the way we had come up we decided to follow the East ridge down a ways and turn down into the bowl where the snowpak is. Foley and the East ridge of Welch. The East ridge was a really easy descent with an impressive view down the NE face, down climbing from the East Ridge was class 4 with a bit of exposure. We made good time down to the lake with no incidents where we met Lorne and Vivian 9who had unfortunately cut her arm open on a rock) and took the trail to the car. Gear Notes: None...maybe a rope if not confident on rock. (i did it in skate shoes) Approach Notes: Easy approach/short gravel road
  7. haha..the rock reminds me of what i get in the Cheam range, fortunately i dont find it difficult or scary at all. looks like going right up the face would be a blast.
  8. ya in the pic the yellow line is perfect exept it goes straight up at the end. and don..count all your questions confirmed because i have climbed as far as the top of the angel on an attempt of the sub-peak AKA red tower. and what was sais about taking the forest on the right of the drainage creek, its alot easier than the nasty cliffy way up the actual creek (i descended it when i came down from the Angel.
  9. Post your favorite climb and your dream climbs here! My favorite climb is probably the East Ridge of Welch Peak because it is fun and is a good warm-up to start the season with. My dream climbs are:Local-NW face of Cheam Peak International-Matterhorn or Eiger
  10. My friend isn't interested in winter climbing but i would love to do that one day, aparrentlyits really easy climbing on crappy rock once you are above the Angel.
  11. Trip: Cheam Peak - NW Face (in the summer) Date: 8/15/2006 Trip Report: I am posting this trip report on behalf of my friends Lorne Bleakney (aged 16) Allan Bleakney(aged 45)Vivian Bleakney (aged 21) and Dan Sluess (aged 21). I did not actually take part in this climb although I wish I had.The NW face of Cheam Peak had always been on my mind and probably all the other mountaineers in the valley as well, when my friend phoned me on August 16th I was amazed at what they had done, I then decided to post this report. At about 6 AM they awoke and left the house at about 6:30, they arrived at the foot of the mountain 10 minutes later and prepared for their climb. Their route would follow a creekbed that would become the East couloir leading into a giant scree slope dubbed the Angel. From there they would follow gully on the face leading to the North Ridge which they would follow to the peak. The hike through the creekbed was quick and easy taking little over half an hour. They reached a split in the gully and took to the right. The greekbed became a steep couloir consiting of about 2,000 to 3,000 vertical ft of cliff and loose rock. The most difficult and technical climbing took place in the couloir and the reached the Angel about 3 or 4 hours later (Dan was also fairly inexperienced and found the climbing more difficult than the others)The Angel is a short trudge taking little over half an hour, once they reached the top of the Angel they followed the incredibly steep scree towards the North Ridge, the scree became cliff and when thay reached the Ridge they were tired, hungry and still getting used to the exposure. The Ridge was fairly easy climbing for a while nad gradually steepened to near vertical 2,00 ft or so from the peak, they climbed slowly branching off the Ridge and moving onto the face a little with Allan leading for the most part until they reached the West ridge about 100 ft from the summit. They walked to summit and descended the regualr trail down the south face where they were picked up by family. The entire climb up the face took aprox 10 hrs. I intend to do this climb next spring with Lorne who intends to repeat it. Gear Notes: Ropes reccomended. Approach Notes: If you want to repeat this climb you will need to find a small road branching off the highway about 1 km after the bridal falls exit on highway 1. follow this road for 1/2 a kilometer then hike through the forest until you reach the creek (5 mins).Also if you try this route be ready for a lot of exposure and loose rock.
  12. Thanks for the replies, im gonna have to wait until the spring to climb most of the peaks around here right now though.
  13. Has anybody here climbed Baby Munday Peak in the Cheam Range? If so, what are the routes like? My friend said he's done it twice but didn't say much else. Thanks.
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