pink
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Camping in sisters... Howard giving Ken the anti gun rundown. Ken isn’t havin it...
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Up on Hood...
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Ken with his old crag car/family cruiser!
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At the base of Moscow... I think
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On Hood!...
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Snow Creek Wall with the Fonz..
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Rare shot of Ken... smiling. Hangin with Larry on LOTLP..
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Fred was and will ever be THE cascade climber. He made it a thing. His yearn for adventure in the mountains eclipsed everyone's. He created a whole new lifestyle and inspired a whole generation, and generations to come: The Dirtbag Climber. And he showed the way, up that obvious gully, to so many classic routes now known in the climbing guides as the "Beckey Route" on so many mountains. His colored climbing guides became the bible for climbers in the Cascades. As Megan says on Facebook..."off belay" Fred. If only any of us could live a life 1/2 as well lived, we would be lucky.
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Poison oak filled cracks. Imagine the beautiful splitters underneath.
nobody gets props for gardening.....
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MELVINS
Sword
Graveyard
Your MOM
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that's a great cover, and i just watched drugstore cowboy the other day.
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i have some sweet drone footage of your moms house...
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Seems to me they had a sign warning not to throw rocks, but the inhuman nature of teens being what it is,
it just encouraged them to do it so they took it down.
people in general throw shit off of stuff with little or no regard for shit or stuff...
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Pink! Dude that is a great old photo. I actually came across our ZM slides not that long ago. What a trip eh? Still look back at those days and think how crazy we were. It's no wonder that I've got so much grey hair these days!
And that is the jacket that got skunked! Remember rolling into Vegas afterwards and still smelling like skunk?
ah man!! yes, i love this photo... i never saw the pics that you took! The Skunk was classic, i can still smell it on that tattered hall bag. You're just not a dirtbag until you climb a big wall smelling like a skunk... That was a trip mister! Ear to Ear, all the way
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Mikey is one motivated dude.. here's a shot i took when we did ZM together in the fall/winter of '97.. his friend Blair met us at the bottom of the rappels with cold guiness and peanut brittle.. I feel pretty honored to have climbed with him.
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1/10/16 - 4th year of setting down the shit that does go down in beatardia, where men are women and women are never around
was a rude late fall/early winter season - the big blow of early november annihilated the hiking trail and i woulda been pissed about it if'n never-ending rains hadn't set in and made soloing laps insane anyway
a late december trip out w/ geoff at the start of winter break - we ended up just drinking beers n' smoking shit n' commenting on the awful, awful slickery nature of everything - the wall closed at ground zero and so nothing aidable particularly of interest
christmas ensued and all was well - didn't have the cash or the clock-time to go for a long off trade to red rocks or whatever, so the only local option was heading up to the puget sound and make a water-man of meself again - last year was great, a 3 day back-pack on the olympic coast n' a 2 day ocean kayak
this time around it was a 6-day sea window
beat up north in the early hours of 12/27, bent out of my mind it seemed, water streaming along the side of the automovat - seattle shortly after dawn, proud pat all pat-like
made our way to the marina n' nattered in the cold light waiting to meet up w/ our captain, a true comedy of errors - soon enough we were on board and casting off
sweet simple sailing southward in light airs, past bouys bestowed with sealions - seals - dolphins - eagles both american and candadian i bet - the pleasant site of a 'lion bolting down a full-growth salmon by tail
the last bit into port orchard by motor, the night come round so soon - carriers at bremerton
ashore we 'sup n' carouse n' enjoy ourselves capitally - meet a sheila-acquaintance of denali dave's round the fireplace n' philsophize over the weight of smoke before rambling off to a sea-berth
sail oughta town the next day and all was well - got meself nearly kilt by a swinging boom just shy of brian island or somethign like that - spent much of the night dazed as could be but enjoyed a grand time nonetheless binging on burgundy, n' noble reds n' flowing bowls of what-have-you until 2 in the morning
awoke feeling near as death as i've felt in awhile - the hard-knock the day before was certainly one of my fabled 9 lives n' i felt the truth of it - grayed out - feeling the cold i'd inherited from the silverton clan plus the concusssion plus the cold above deck plus the deep, deep fucking booze funk
they all thought i was dead the day before and grew doubly grim when i was drawing breath the day after but groaning - turned into me laying in agony on the cabin bench n' holding me head together as we steamed back to seattle against a solid breeze
the rest of the day was a healing thing - pat flung himself into the sound in his wetsuit as i laid around his joint, showering and trying to sleep off my fucking concussion - that night we did some super-stoned shopping n' headed over to his girlfriend's for a sumptous dinner set against a most scorchign cold outside - i cackled n' thumbed through 1960's civil defense brochures while pat snored n' i made small talk w/ his missus and her very alien animal
3 days of ocean kayaking ensued - launched out from an indian reservation near bellingham, stocked up on cheap injun smokes - the rudder was rudely impaired n' pat didn't know but had me in the back anyhow, so after hours of bitching n' cussing we finally fetched up on clark island
soaked rather wet we came straight ashore n' made camp in what proved to be a damned cold place - made a roaring fire n' had a bit of a good night - italian fare i recollect - olives n' red sauce n' sausage tortellinis n' mozeralla n' red wine - a sputtering fire, a bit of a dissapointment but soon enough the tent beside a snoring pat n' i slept soundly, the head cold resonating through me
day 2 of the ocean kayak we resolve to shift our camp southwards on the island but no further - find a sweet cove filled w/ firewood n' a sweltering sun, relative to our recent camp - we souse along the shore for a bit n' later launch for a trip to a nearby island where pat is molested by sheep
great night, this one - we were promised the northern lights but they never appeared but fuck it - it was new years eve - we sat by a roaring fire n' enjoyed bacon n' chili n' what-have-you, me sucking down pionot noir n' smokes n' enjoying the simpleness of being stranded at sea
new year's eve we returned to civilization n' after a bit of agony i made it home in time for winter weather and a nice delayed start to the school year
but this a beacon thread, n' so all this stuff before is simple bullshit n' i apologize for it
today was day 1! corner lap #1, but not solo n' gladly not
geoff at the bk a bit past 10 - we saunter eastwards by strong light n' stronger winds
the parking lot in a simple gale - we pack and wander down, bound n' determined to reach the top of the uprising and to suss out the damage from there
cold n' icy but delightfully dry - i take pitch 1 n' we alternate from there - snow patches here and there, but dry where it needs to be - some beers along the way n' we get time to poke our head over the railing n' take in the carnage on the touron-trail - much work to be done it's obvious - big blown out trees n' blowdown n' battered stones - we take it in and scoot down the raps in the big blow n' enjoy some beers and ramboling aroudn and reach back for home
here's to 2016
1/31 - day 2 - closing day, and not a very promising one - 39 degrees n' pouring rain in the parking lot - a drive out through mental desperation, the moss on this here rolling rock of meself growing thick n' fucking shaggy
beers n' bullshitting w/ steve n' waiting for the weather to give up a little - there were no illusions of how thorough soggy it was gonna be
no wind to speak of though, so there was that at least and it got warmer on the south side after the mist melted away - soon enough i cast off, pulling on gear here and there to remind meself not to be a dipshit on a point of pride climbing the slime-cone
the sun shone out halfway up and the mood improved noticeably - fresh snow, as innocent as a downy laotian-lamb along the far gorge walls -steve was exuberant to lead the second pitch and i salute him for it as it wouldn't have taken much to talk me out of it
a real slippy-slidey one is that - our boy did it w/o flying off but, following, i found meself doing the cartoon-character spinning me feet in the air thang at one point and only narrowly avoiding a pretty cosmic pirouette around the first crux
found meself holding forth somethign fierce on tree ledge, swilling pbr n' pounding upon our poor fellow about his own cosmic hangups -those rightly disposed, and a few butts thrown in to boot, i bolted on up the slippery ramps to grassy ledges - since i had a 70 and the jill's anchor was running wet, i went past it and anchored to a tree - a flippant shoulder belay ensued n' steve quite soon went n' fell big time onto it but i proved them old-boys knew what they were doing and ended up smiling on the ground for it
the trail closed sign even as we slipped away - stone soup next month now i suppose, though i suspect it's gonna take a civil action and yet another juicy skamania judge session before it gets sorted out - how good is it i have no other hobbies?
2/27 - day 3 - stone soup in the sopping wet - sausage n' eggs n' a leisurely breakfast - 'nastia at tad past 10 - streaming water on the sides of the machine on the way out - the k-19 in classic form, fresh off a cardiac arrest for christ's sake?
3/2 - day 4 - the k-19 konked out saturday just at the parking lot ledge n' we ran out of day and had to leave all the gear hanging on the wall - ya'll bitches lost out on a treasure trove of scary worn-out trash
we raced out amid squalls n' rain-storms, me simultaneously sucking down beer n' butts n' changing clothes - was an easy romp up the route w/ the gear all pre-placed - strong winds n' steady rain at times but all went well
prime time for putting up some more routes on this small patch of available wall...
3/26 - day 6 - spring breaks big upon the land - breezy clouds n' bright sun - a right sound sleep-in - wine n' pizza for breakfast, than a side-saddle into the gorge under glorious skies - crisp n' cold - spent some time scrambling 'round the ozone n' enjoying da wedder, then busted eastwards more to beacon - aid-soloed stone soup n' had a prime time of it, binging on, of all things, katy perry
4/28 - day 7 - been out to hike hamilton a couple times the past few weeks but that shit don't count - been a bad fews weeks of loss: health, cool students, ambition, colleagues, etc. - got a taste of bacon to soothe the senses today - me n' mike at the base of stone soup in the cool grey of the afternoon - the alpine start to three tree ledges - to the swiss ledges from there, swapping leads - sawzalled a couple bolts to get'em more righteous - shit, there's so many more to do - set off 2 huge blocks on the rap back down, topping a big tree along the way - for the best really - stoked to see so much chalk on p1 & 2, just gotta improve them amateur bolts for the sporto's
5/2 - day 8 - nobody to climb w/ but it was 80+ at days end and nary a cloud in the crystal sky, so what can you do? scampered out to beacon, belting out bale-loads of smoke along the way n' bitch'n ballads, the 'lesberu purring away n' throwing engine warning lights out like it's wont to do - were time compressed into a single moment and a single feeling, i'm sure this wouldn't be the worst of em all to settle on, spring setting in and summer beckoning right behind...
not a soul in the parking lot, not right at all for so rare a spring day - what worries me really about the closed hiking trail is there isn't a sign at all of work being done to fix the damn thing - if i had a dollar for every tourist who stops, pays the 10$, then curses to discover the main attraction is under wraps, i'd have 1/10 of what the park's getting...
joe lent me a mean sawzall n' i put it to some use - climbed the 1st pitch of stone soup and, while cleaning it, cut down all the nasty extruding studs n' filed n' em nice n' smooth
5/28 - day 9 - many hikes up hamilton in recent days, but that don't hardly count - thursday was out for the big walk an saw topher n' company on stone soup - brought a bit of a smile to the heart n' had a good govreet w/ them fools after the walk was over - passed off a sawzall, which didn't appear to get much use, and after a few gut-laff's w/ denali-dave, all done up and vivisected on account of his duputryens, danced away west
teamed up w/ geoff today - hadn't seen that courtly fool since casting him off at his hill house shortly after completing our spring break trip to the valley
our sad friend greatly hobbled all this time gone by, he braved his early exit from fat-phuck retirment and out we went - topher'd pulled his ropes, and we rambled up the first 2 pitches, me getting all the good work
the recently renovated p1 was hardly noticable - p2 not so much - a new bolt allows the aid'n fool to skip the eyebrow cave (bryan managed this same variation w/o a bolt i recall) which makes the aid across a bit more mellow - no more sling on the tree above the bush but it still works, so long as you fully extend your daisy and commit to the top step on tiny handholds
the 2 upper headwall bolts all ripped out and eloped east - it got called stone soup for a reason - the new way just fine, aiding-wise, and kinda fun as it forces some funky mixed free maneavours to make the high step
rawked out for the rest of our times - 3 tree - the long way down - rangers abound - beers and butts - the boat-dock - always bet on #28 - the big bound home
6/9 - die X - not such a balmy day after all this august heat - grey and gloomy - school's done as done can be, just the simple matter of casting these cynical bastards off in the morrow's afternoon and it's summa, summa, summa
jeffy-t at the register rock in the half rain - a good gavreet and a glorious shit and it was sauntering time - rambled up to the top-most railing and ran down the stone soup, taking in the rare auold sights - was a trifle baffled by the dangling old fixed line at three tree - guess that's what it means to make nice w/ the neighbors
- cut out the hanging trash and cast in on down and couldn't for the life of me find it once upon the ground - wouldn't mind recovering it really, it's the rancid remnants of my first rope, bought back in the waning days of clinton-one might be a bit for beacon - next week's the redwoods and yosemite and san-franny w/ the famibily, then mike n' me making our easting off to the wind river range n' hopefully high times....
7/16 - day 11 - opening day + 1 - been a busy summer - sand dunes, redwoods, yosemite, san francisco, flat-irons, devils's tower, the winds, smith and darrington, then me washed up flat n' busted on my doorstep just a few days before the family rolls back in - road weary and woe-eyed - sometimes i think i'm a shadow and the sun's almost down
a morning spent mending the damage done to tires on the most recent road-trip, then out to beacon and a lap up the corner w/ geoff n' bill - cool weather, cloudy - the old place looking just fine after all this time...
musta spent at least 10 solid minutes trying to find the new party spot rumored to be an unladen-swallow's flight away, but eventually we figured ole'adam just must not be home
7/17 - day 12 - lap 1 of the summer - woke up late, this last day of bachelor freedom, bound to recover a dog at noon, despite my vexations - just enough time for a sleep in n' a big breakfast n' some beer, then bounced out the door for a lap - musta passed 4 parties of 4-climbers each on the corner? jeebus, the man could make a fortune if'n he claimed for each
7/31 - lucky #13 - lap 2 - a trip to tower and success seemingly in hand after a mort more work - a week w/ the wife at art museum's n' doing ya'd wo'k n' f'ck knows what else - hips hurt - knees hurt - seem to have the planter fascist-fukyu in both my heels now - keerist, i'm a few months short of a solid douglas adams' 42 n' i'm feeling auooooold
sunday morning after a solid sleep in - a week w/ the fam at the beach tomorrow so this was it, and not much time to spare as i needed to set the ya'd in order before we fuckered off
beacon near noon - the lot like a gypsy caravan before the nazis knew what's what - cool n' grey - bro'seph n' his benji-buddy in buckling down n' ready to bound up dastardly
wandered up the corner w/ a head half-right - crowds like always of course, and a poor dam anchored off and leaving on the travese tree giving me the heebie-jeebies - the crux like cream these days - i don't know what my feet are doing, but i just smile and saunter on
fresh air and following breeze - fun times - the ramble down - beers and the long babbling road back home...
8/7 - day 14 - little wing n' jill's thrill just right to humiliate our friend n' humble narrator after a week family camping in the olympics, sucking down sausauges n' swill - swimming across lake quinualt some species of training i suppose...
thought ole'geoff was fixing to stand me up at the b.k. - read some n' tried not to feel like i was gonna barf up me breakfast - settled for just doing some soloing after a half hour rambled on by - went to fetch some of the regular old poisons out of the roadhouse first n' then pulled out n' headed east when i saw the big-G galloping up in his toy-yoya n' said sure, why not?
bit stormy out at beacon today, but nothing serious n' kept the crowds down a bit i bet
geoff did the real work so i wussed out and did the easier pitches but still fumbled n' fucked them up, conniving to cut me hand up in the bargain and bled like a little bitch all over the place
the Gnome King at grassy ledges, seemingly moved in for the season n' hogging all the space, his ride recently jacked by the Man n' him all "fukit, keepit" in response - a rare hero that'un
steve n' lisa all about too - we followed them down the raps n' rambled on over to the other side to see about the minotaur, who happily had left his labyrinth - ascended through threatening storm n' had a real satisfying time of it
rude reality back in the parking lot - some crackhead kraker chucked a big old stone through geoff's window n' did a quick once-over through its interior - pleasingly the car-alarm seemed to have brought the bitch out of the pussies and they fled before grabbing anything actually - guess it gives our boy an excuse to finally replace the broken windshield too...
the summer's setting quick - hope to get another tower trip or two in before it's time to slummit back to work...
8/10 - day XV - lap III - leisurely breakfast w/ the kids and some midsummer school work dispensed with, hit the chiropractor to crack the old back n' suck the thetans outta me, then cruised out to beacon in the afternoon heat - warm n' windy in the park - the busted glass of geoff's smashed window all tidied up - just one couple gearing up n' ready to blast off as i started up the corner - felt like a slow old man, stopping to have a good lie down every few pitches n' gaze out at the much older man, the half moon hanging in the sky - the perseids tonight too - the free tv overhead never failing to fling something at you
looks like the gnome-king done got evicted - wonder where that wierd mutherfukka got to?
8/11 - day 16, lap 4 - not so breezy at beacon today - hot n' humid, even after the shade had set in - gabbed w/ jimbo for a while - the gnome king remains in the witness protection program - ran up the corner, feeling a good bit better than yesterday - brought some clippers n' did some community-service cutting out all the clutter on hidden treats and uprising - gavreeted w/ some good folks n' gamboled on back home to set up shop in a dark field w/ the kids n' watch the pulsing perseids
8/12-13 - days 17-18 - the plan was partake of the perseids and plenty of beer on the ledge, maybe do a night lap, then finagle maybe a new route off the top - temps in the mid-90s on the drive in, sweltering in my ac-broken car - drove in endless circles trying to discover the exact location of adam's rebel base where i was to rendezvous w/ my crack team of geoff n' bryan
eventually it all worked out and we walked up the painfully hot trail, weltering in sweat - once on the ledge the lack of breeze didn't offer much comfort as we lay around, damp as dogs, re-evaluating our recent decisions
bryan and i went on to climb the corner, setting off from the ground just at the last light left the sky - an uneventful and rapid ascent and then it was the rest of a long evening spent counting falling stars, drinking 3 different kinds of beer n' pinot noir to boot, gut-laughing and bullshit'n
by 9 a.m. the next morning it was absolutely sweltering and all willingness to scrub n' cut n' mank our way up the sun-blasted wall had wasted away in favor of a far more ambitious plan, ambling off and away over to the tepid columbia to swim like porpoises in the sweet water - we even managed to enlist old adam, who clearly had done this shit already - good times ensued over an afternoon that clearly demonstrated how our ancient mammalian cousins evolved and returned to the ocean to despatch their terrestrial ruinations
8/15 - day 19 - lap 5 - hawt, hawt day - did a lap, then grabbed a snorkel n' swam around the river for a good long while - don't think i've ever felt my arms quite that wasted after a solo day at beacon
8/22 - day 20 - lap 6 - spent a day lying wounded on the couch nursing my cranky hip after a lengthy tower rock trip, then up today to do the gym-thang w/ the wife, then a chiro visit, then a wander out east - cool and breezy on the south side - a party of 3 on the corner - the 2 dudes from vegas win the "beacon rock hero of the day" award for bringing their very cute girlfriend out - beautiful ebony skin and didn't look a day over 19 n' 1/2 - can't say i've ever seen someone so lovely on our dreary, drab old stone...
[/quoteyou shoulda had ur buddy Pat out to snap pics
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well then why don't you go fuck urself
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Hammering in pins and playing with your wiener does not cut the mustard no mo. Imaginary lines are great but someone has to climb them. if you want to claim first ascent, do it before the second ascent, not after with indignation or its all just USELESS OLD SHIT talking.
hey steve... does ur dick hang down to ur knees?
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Okay but first id like to see what line IVAN thinks i climbed
the first pitch i don't think has anything to do w/ your climb, though maybe the first 30 feet did - the second pitch i doubt you followed after the eyebrow (the first blue X in gecko's pic) and would assume you went left from there, if you were on it at that point
the first pitch i initially cleaned, wolfgang fine tuned that pitch but he never got back to finishing it.... the second pitch i took a left turn at the blue x and then up to a tree... i had bigger plans for this route, but i was saving for the closure and i never came back to the northwest after i broke my hand on the zodiac... it was a big stink when we did that second pitch too, the cops and rangers were there and a bunch of tourist in a huff cause we were hoggin all the fun
the coolest part about doing these two pitches was climbing them with jim... cool - so we are on the same page then, no?
on the first pitch, the most natural leader tendency is, as topher n' company have shown lately, to go off left where the pro is (which largely means not even starting stone soup p1) - going straight up the 1st pitch of stone soup is only possible, short of suicidal heroics, with the 3 bolts that are currently there - ya'll certainly could have top-roped the entirety of stone soup p1, but leading it would have moved you well off left after 30 vertical feet
am i wrong or are we really not arguing about a damn thing?
yeah i told that i had been there when that first pic was posted... you basically put up an aid line over something that i largely freed hammering in pitons cause that was the experience i was looking for... i was really never arguing anything, just telling oh ye of little faith, that it was not virgin territory. i think you have changed your tune a little and i'm happy for that, mostly because it was a special route that i put up with JIm, who is a super special guy to me. i appreciate you more than you know mr. ivan... you go out and have fun.
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Can't we just call it Smoke Soup? Same with the Far Zone. Tamatoes...tomatoes...its all good.
and rename your store "useless old shit"
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Okay but first id like to see what line IVAN thinks i climbed
the first pitch i don't think has anything to do w/ your climb, though maybe the first 30 feet did - the second pitch i doubt you followed after the eyebrow (the first blue X in gecko's pic) and would assume you went left from there, if you were on it at that point
the first pitch i initially cleaned, wolfgang fine tuned that pitch but he never got back to finishing it.... the second pitch i took a left turn at the blue x and then up to a tree... i had bigger plans for this route, but i was saving for the closure and i never came back to the northwest after i broke my hand on the zodiac... it was a big stink when we did that second pitch too, the cops and rangers were there and a bunch of tourist in a huff cause we were hoggin all the fun
the coolest part about doing these two pitches was climbing them with jim... -
"but...like...yeah...you didn't do the same second pitch..."
So Pink, what did you climb as the second pitch if it wasn't the line Ivan climbed as Stone Soup?
Okay but first id like to see what line IVAN thinks i climbed
... i didnt leave any fixed pitons on that route cause i was heading to the ditch shortly after this to climb Space on El Cap. Hey i heard about ur foot dude... what a freak accident, i guess El Cap isn't a total slut and doesn't fuck on the first date 
anyway sorry you didn't get ur wall. I do think the Zodiac is the best first wall to do on El Cap. I've done that bad boy twice and it isn't a gimme. and also, i see you added the routes to mountain project... your description for the first pitch is incorrect.. thought i'd let you know that since there is a new guidebook coming out and all
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"but...like...yeah...you didn't do the same second pitch..."
So Pink, what did you climb as the second pitch if it wasn't the line Ivan climbed as Stone Soup?
Okay but first id like to see what line IVAN thinks i climbed
... i didnt leave any fixed pitons on that route cause i was heading to the ditch shortly after this to climb Space on El Cap. Hey i heard about ur foot dude... what a freak accident, i guess El Cap isn't a total slut and doesn't fuck on the first date anyway sorry you didn't get ur wall. I do think the Zodiac is the best first wall to do on El Cap. I've done that bad boy twice and it isn't a gimme.
Beacon Rock Stories
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Above average 😳 so like over five inches? 😮 Ken was cool, you were too busy raising ur kids to have met him.. displacement... go figure! Larry and I thought he was so cool that we called him the Fonz 👍🏻 It’s too bad, cause I woulda got to know ya as well.
Cheers Bill