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tradclimbguy

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Everything posted by tradclimbguy

  1. I count 13. Three of which appear without partner and one of which is probably sunbathing on the top. Also found, one green fixed line, numerous anchors and a bunch of bolts and yes.. I'm way bored today.
  2. Where does it say the NPS and USFS is requiring this? I couldn't find anything on it. If it's true it's absolutely stupid. Can you see all the boater's logging in to say they are going out on their boat for the day? Or the Day hikers just hitting up the trail head? How about that mother daughter that were murdered last year. How is something like that supposed to make you "safe"? Seems like a stupid knee-jerk idea that will do nothing but give people a false sense of security. Me, Ill stick with leaving my wife and friends our plans for when we do long off the beaten path trips.
  3. I could use a climbing day pack, something geared toward cragging up 5-20 pitch climbs. It would need to hold a 3L camelback bladder and a small amount of extra clothing like rain coat, gloves, hat and shoes for the descent. It should be big enough to pack a small rope in the bottom and it would be nice if it had things integrated into it like a good anchor point for clipping it to an anchor or hauling it up a chimney. Right now I use the Camelback "MULE" and it's met my needs for the last few years but could be so much better optimized for harder free climbing and stowing just what you need on long climbs. Needless to say it would be something that allowed you to climb as if you weren't wearing anything at all. It would also be nice if it compressed down pretty flat so you could reduce the size when it wasn't full. It would also be nice if it were fairly smooth with very few items hanging off it. My camelback holds my water nicely but fitting my shoes to the pack is a pain. It would also need some small easy access pockets and compartments for head lamp, first aid stuff, power bars and gu's. Now if it were top notch it would also integrate into your big pack but that's secondary in my mind to everything else. I always seem to travel with two packs and always have trouble finding a spot to stick the camelback. If it had multiple clip points to connect to my main pack that would be super. Basically I need something lighter, tougher and better geared toward long days out on the crags.
  4. Who cares if the directions are posted??? Geez, why don't we set this up through one of those REI vacations for you Bill. We can carry your gear, drive you there and put up the lines too. Try this, search on Google for "Trout Creek, madras". The first couple hits tell you how to get to the campground. One of the fishing sites even shows a picture of the crag! Finding the crag once you are in the campground isn't rocket science. I personally like not having every detail spelled out for me.
  5. I'll take a look through my stash and see if mines any good still. I'll PM you if I find anything. -TCG
  6. in a lot of cases the mere presence of the second as a dead weight at the other end of the rope will be fine. Isn't that what I said?
  7. I've never used coils really. Simul with the better climber on the bottom and just always climb with a bit of slack in the line. It's up to the second to climb at the same rate as the leader and up to the leader to keep a pace that can be matched over all terrain. It's always up to the second to NEVER fall either. As for the tibloc or ropeman I wouldn't trust leaving something rigged up and unmanned like that. Most times Im simuling anyway it's fast enough you don't have time to do that useless stuff. Anyway if you feel like you need a tibloc then you probably shouldn't be simuling the section and should just take the time to break it down and pitch it out a bit. If you hit a tough section, stop and toss in some extra gear then tell your second you need a belay then climb the section. The second can either act as a literal moving belay or gain some distance then toss on a belay device if you don't already have one threaded on the rope. Simuling takes alot of teamwork to do it right. The second has to act as a constantly moving counterweight anchor and be able to match speed and jump into a belay situation at any moment.
  8. no climb "requires" simul-climbing, it can always be pitched out. It's something that just happens when the climbing becomes easy enough for you and your partner and pitching it out isn't necessary. Imagine climbing a pitch that gets so easy for you that when you hit the end of the rope instead of building and anchor and belaying your buddy up, they just break down the anchor and start climbing up after you. You just keep simuling until you either run out of gear or get to a tough spot that causes you to stop and build another anchor and let your buddy catch back up again. Tvash has some good tips though for the actual "act" of simuling. My only rule of thumb on simuling is the "no fall" rule. No simuling if you think there is a chance to fall. Outside of that you can simul on a full rope, simul on a short rope. Stop and do partial belays throughout a simuling pitch. Just make sure you've always got a few bomber pieces of gear between you, that is your anchor.
  9. Pokin fun man... Geez. Read half the other "I only climb with nut based posts" in this thread
  10. Boy oh boy what a bunch of fair weather gear heads. Next time a nut fails we'll have 12 posts about how you all only climb with cams. Geez (Note: I am poking fun. So don't go all freak out on me) As for my rack I carry no hexes and about 5 nuts in total. Depending on the climb I may take some RP's or offsets to supplement but any medium to large nuts have primarily been retired. The rest of my rack consists of all cams. Standard single rack of cams with doubles in the small usually. Next step up would be a full set of doubles to #2BD and a #3. Rarely do I take more than one #3 though unless the climb calls for it. I just don't place nuts anymore and usually only on harder climbs when I need more of one size. They've truly become backup on my rack for my cams. (BD's, Metolius, Aliens and Wild Country) This event only reinforces the fact that gear breaks. ALL gear, not just cams and that backing up gear is good an placing all your money into one piece can be really bad. I still believe a cam shouldn't break because it wasn't set at the right angle so I don't plan on buying any crappy OP's and from the looks of it anything Cassin either.
  11. Looking at the picture it's pretty damn simple to see why the cam broke. Torque the cam sideways and you put force on the thin portions of the lobe. OP's answer is a bad excuse for a poor design. Placements aren't perfect and the cam shouldn't need a perfect placement not to break. Compare it with any other name brand on the market like BD or Metolius and tell me if they'd snap like a twig when placed a little off kilt??? I don't see my BD's lobes snapping in half.
  12. Yes, I did say that. Point was, what "I" think as "considerate" isn't the same as what somebody else would think which was my point. You apparently don't think any consideration should be taken, thus proving the point. Are you sure your not some french climber who likes climbing routes others are currently on and clipping your rope through their gear???
  13. yeah right, real simple. "give you the time needed".... what the fuck? "oh gee it's been 10 years now i know, but i need just another couple of years and it's mine mine all mine buahahahahaaaaaa!!!!" cleaning and bolting a line and saying "it's mine" is all about ego, NOTHING ELSE. I know, i've done it and been there, and it's an attempt to immortalize oneself; if that part didn't matter, the person would simply say to anyone who wanted to try: "have at it." Do you just spew to hear yourself? Maybe you should spend more time reading and contemplating posts before writing more bullshit. I never justified giving the FA party exclusive rights, I just pointed out some people may not honor the possible hard work you spent to prep a route. If the route wasn't an ego stroke then it wouldn't be much of a deal but it still might perturb you a bit. My point is there is NO time limit and there will ALWAYS be enough justification for SOMEONE to jump on and snag a route that's in the middle of being set up before the FA stepped back and sends it. So go troll somewhere else and get off your own high horse. If you find new route then get on it. I don't give a flying fuck what you think, but learn to read. Time to move this crap to spray. The only thing consistent with cc.com is that "All threads lead to spray". As always much appreciated.
  14. I think Bug hit the nail on the head. If you don't keep it secret then you'll always have to worry about all the assholes out their willing to jump your line. Some of us will be considerate and give you the time needed but there will always be somebody out there who thinks they've given you enough time, or that the route was theirs first or that they just plain don't care. Simple question... Simple Answer...
  15. Ahhh. Now I would have just brought a step ladder and a crash pad with me.
  16. Sometimes it helps if you just read the article in the first place. "The new climb adds a sit start to the AlĂ­ Hulk Extension, creating the longest link-up in the low-ceilinged cave, where lines often are climbed without a rope but are given a route rating because of their length." Simply put it's a boulder problem better described with a sport rating due to the length of the climb. I don't think there is anything devious behind the sport rating... Heck, they describe it as a V14 + a 5.15a which is actually a combination of two lines already. The bigger question is why did they bolt it if it's only 6ft off the ground? My guess is just so they "mark" their spot to show they did it first and got the FA. Edit: Oh, and when did adding a sit start to a route change it's grade... Just another oddity to point out that it's obviously not the "norm" and is just a boulder problem. Sit start... hahaha
  17. Too funny. I nearly crapped in the litter box just reading this...
  18. Not spray? huh? Oops, I mean... % Chance this stupid thread is not spray: 0
  19. Spray. Edit: % Chance I gave a stupid shit response to your stupid shit post: 100 Can you put a leash on that???
  20. % Chance you are a tool: 100 % Chance you left your food on the ground and the "Wildlife" is eating it instead of a dog: 100 % Chance the other 70 loud obnoxious climbers at the crag are disturbing the "wild life" more than the dogs: 100 % Chance you got in the way of the dogs nap spot to belay from a more comfortable rock: 100 Number of better uses for a dog leash than for tying up a dog: 1 - tying you to your car so others don't have to deal with you at the crag Number of better places for a dog leash than in owner's pack: one - Shoved up your ass. Odds that people don't give a shit about your stupid rant 3,000,000,000 to 2 (you and archenemy)
  21. I see no difference in clipping a pin or a bolt. The only thing I like clipping more is my own gear since I know how good it is. clip and go, clip and go.
  22. Interesting set of views so far. Having recently started replacing some of my cams I find myself actually getting further away from Metolius. I used to be die hard for the TCU's but since getting into Aliens I can't seem to go back. I had to officially retire my blue and yellow TCU's this year too as they are now too thrashed and neither cam anymore. My purple should also probably be let go and my orange isn't very straight I even used to have a full rack of larger power cams but have fallen in line with BD's as being the ONLY large cams on my rack. I'm not sure what you guys mean by the C4's being crappy. I use mine to death and they seem to hold up really well. I did get a full set of the new Wild Country Zeroes and absolutely love them but they still come in second to the aliens. They are definitely turning into my go to guys though. They can be a bit finicky to get in the crack but they stick to just about anything and are very confidence inspiring. If it weren't for my now double rack of aliens up to red and then doubles of .75 through #4 BD I'd probably get more Metolius but I think I've now got my near perfect rack. The Wild countries make triples or sometimes go on as doubles if I'm looking for something different but more or less I always have one full set of aliens glued to my side.
  23. Nice work. I would argue though that all IB takes is running though. Great time for pitching it out, more work than I'd want to do NW Classic, hahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahaha!
  24. It was 43 minutes I believe bottom to top with a short gym rope. They simul climbed the entire thing and slogged down the back side. I'd have to ask my buddy again if that was his time, but I'm pretty sure it was.
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