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jclements

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Everything posted by jclements

  1. Hi, I climbed it solo last year in June. I was just up at the hogsback last weekend. I ski down from the hogsback. I wanted to do another climb to condition for Whitney mountaineers route in June, so if you're still looking for a local by then, let me know.
  2. If anyone wants to partner up for the South side, ride share etc. Next week looks finally to be clearing up. Wed-Friday? I'll be skinning up to Devil's kitchen and skiing down from there, booting up to the summit.
  3. Lightly used snow shoes. About 15 years old or so, but they've been kept stored in an included bag. Material is good and not cracking. Big at 36" long and 10" wide for packing in gear or for big folk. $20? Make an offer. I'm Hillsboro outside of Portland.
  4. Got this gear ~ 10 years ago and used the rope and the biners maybe once, the slings, nuts and chocks never. Not sure if the rope is too old to trust, got used maybe once. All in great condition, been stored for all this time. $120 for the lot. Make an offer on pieces. PM if you want more pictures, details.
  5. $15. Used about 2 dozen times at a gym. In Hillsboro. see http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/spo/1848077240.html for pics respond there or to john.cdotclements at gmail
  6. Anyone bag this recently? How are the conditions?
  7. I've been going low-carb recently, and I've been feeling pretty damn good. I just booked up Ruckel Ridge with a breakfast of chorizo and eggs to start. Throughout an eight-hour day, 12 miles, up and down 4000 feet in 90 degree weather, I was eating coconut oil, ham, jerky, nuts, and about 3 shots of Hammer Gel, with electrolyte water (no sugars). Was this perfect? No. In hindsight I could have probably used a little more carbs during and post, which slowed my recovery. I think too many nuts, which I have a hard time controlling myself from eating just a little, have more fiber than I need to be digesting during a long hard day. It was a rushed camping trip, a last-minute idea with the family, and I didn't pack a single nalgene, so I would rather have carried a protein mix to take in liquid form rather than eat as much solid food as I did. But I still did pretty good for myself, no bonking, no nausea, no dragging other than the expected fatigue(haven't been out that long in awhile). But I think a good dose of protein AND FAT is essential to a good breakfast which doesn't have to be big; I agree with the point that it's just the first fueling. One research study found that low-carb athletes do just fine when operating at or below 60% VO2 max in endurance events, if you're above that, higher-carb athletes perform better, but that's not to say low-carb athletes can't still perform. It does lend more importance to fat and protein in the athletic diet whatever your level. I'm not recommending a total low-carb diet, only that one explore the arguments. It used to be the wisdom that carbo-loading is good. Now, it's not, but the conv wisdom says carbs should be the base of your pyramid in any case. Now, Hammer and other endurance specialists are recognizing the importance of protein and fats in endurance events. The Bicycling Magazine article's title has to be a shameless riff on Gary Taubes' 2002 NYT Mag article "What If It's All Been a Big Fat Lie?" which questions the notion that dietary fat has anything to do at all with heart disease and obesity (I think his book Good Calories, Bad Calories argues well enough that it doesn't, as well as dispensing with a number of our dietary myths, including scooping BM on the calorie equality fallacy). The BM article for example still holds to the myth that lean meat is better for you than fatty. The challenge to the carbo-loading ideas has been around in the low-carb athletic community for awhile now. There's no point in complex carbs for an athletic event (hey, I dig Scottish oatmeal, too, but it's not necessary). It all has to break down into glucose. I recognize the advice as being opposed to something sugary, which is what some people can work well (enough) with, (once climbed with a guy who had to have his Cap'n Crunch as he decried my sausage), but they contain fructose as well, and that's a whole nother topic. The maltodextrin in a gel is all you need as far as carbs go, because you need it right now, not in an hour or so while your glycogen stores (1-2 hours worth) are being depleted and you're wasting blood flow to digest fiber.
  8. If anyone wants rideshare from PDX or climb along, plan is to leave PDX Thursday night, leave timberline parking lot before midnight, get above the rush, summit by sunup. Straight up SS Old Chute /cattle trail for my first time up. Maybe another PDX area peak early/mid July, training for the Sierra Challenge...
  9. I'd really like to get in on this, too. My son will be 7 in Aug and is quite active, done a little gym bouldering but it would be cool for him to be with other kids on rock. Unfortunately I have to work Sundays, so we would only be able to make it on Friday-Saturday, but it would be well worth it.
  10. I can make Hood on 7/8 - 7/11, and would like to join up. Bill, I'm in the area, 39 yo engineer, looking for partner. Oak, SS Adams is a breeze. Suggestion: camp at Lunch Counter and get up early and go, after the sun is up the mountain is blanketed with hikers. All you need is crampons and axe while it is dark. Once the sun comes up it all turns to slush.
  11. "Private sector loans, not Fannie or Freddie, triggered crisis" http://www.mcclatchydc.com/251/story/53802.html
  12. The boss forgot to mention the green subsidy he got for putting up a bike rack, lobbying the local gov't to relocate to an area "to provide jobs" and got his taxes deferred, getting the new warehouse built on land conveniently condemned the year before, getting adjoining land for cheap because it was eminent-domained from private citizens, outsourcing his suppliers to China and getting a tax write-off as "foreign production," and getting China to tax him some token amount (which is directed right back into his operations there) - another write off as subsidy, dumping chemicals into the sewer for taxpayers to clean up, HQing his company at a PO Box in Barbados thus sheltering most of his assets from US taxation, issuing stock to an intermediary company who issues stock back, paying himself only $50,000 a year in income but much more than that in long-term capital gain sales, the 600 grand he got from Daddy and his friends after graduating from Yale because he had Daddy's last name, getting a no-bid contract with the school system/military base/gov't agency overseen by the politician he'd contributed to/golfed with; the subsidy he got for hiring a handicapped person and putting in wheelchair ramps, the corporate jet he flies to Aspen with and writes it off as a business expense, the accountant he pays 100K to ensure he pays nearly zero in taxes, or even taking a loss to carry over for years... Not all the above hold for all companies or businessmen, but it's a nice fable just the same. Businessmen aren't hurting because of taxes. The payroll or FICA tax is incidental tax on compensation. It has to come from somewhere. Saying the employer pays half is just a way of saying the employee doesn't pay it all. In that case the employer would have to pay higher wages to meet the labor market.
  13. time to start growing your own! Suggestion: Corporate Tax Reform.
  14. This idea seems to be spreading as there is some town in Oregon doing the same thing. It's great people want to get in shape but the idea promotes a certain amount of ignorance, as you say, crash dieting, etc. Weight lost isn't fat lost, and this can be dangerous for some. Many won't understand why they're so tired and give up and yo-yo back up to the same or higher weight, thinking "I've tried dieting and it doesn't work, etc." Which reinforces their depression, or whatever negative emotions they have about their weight. Exercise, weight loss, maintenance - it's not a simple discipline one just switches on overnight. Understanding and controlling one's physiology and how one eats and how many calories and what kind to take in is a lot of work to understand and practice. Maybe you could mention this to your workplace. I don't know what kind of workplace it is, but I work in an industrial setting and when people aren't adequately nourished they get tired and fuzzy-headed and that can be dangerous to them and others.
  15. I was working with a German yesterday, a former East German who, I understand, had to join the Communist party to get a job (I haven't fact checked this - anyone?). His tone would get flat and, uh, toneless as he described, tersely, how to do this particular task. When I didn't quite get some detail, he would get an annoyed look and repeat it again as if I were stupid. Really endeared me. I thought well there's one way to hate each other. I listened to another German the day before speak about how he hated the Netherlands, how the hotels and food were crappy. He was getting laid off from my Dutch parent company. Never again will he work for a Dutch company, he says. I worked with a Vietnamese guy a while back and there were times he annoyed me as well, but we never came to bayonets and we talk whenever we see one another in the salt mine. I would think about how our dads were trying to kill one another at one time. Today I watched a Vietnamese family from the safety of my television make rice paper in the lush green fields of rural Vietnam and I thought how pretty it was there without all that napalm mucking about. But the French, oh the fucking French, we can never ever forgive them for the dire betrayal and evil they have wrought upon us. Someday there will be a reckoning - a bake sale of Freedom. And - well, I could go on. It's as if everyone outside America is so Un-American. Just turn the Milgram dial up a little at a time, and 66 percent of us will do what the man told us to do. Oh the economy - who can understand that without reading and quoting others who have degrees in it? So much funner to make ad hominem remarks. It's so stimulating to hear all this concern about the future debt of the children of other people. After all, you can't pay for this bill with all the oil we'll get from invading and liberating the economy. Solar panels and bike trails? An oversized movie projector?
  16. Goal: 180ish 1/16: 192 1/23: 188 1/30: 187 2/6: 185 2/13: 183
  17. Well, without taking a few vitals, assessing your general physique, and being an actual doctor, I can't help you much, but I can relate. Not what you're asking, but it may help as far as outlook: I did similar damage to a knee from running. I was overweight (still am, but not as much), had done little jogging earlier in life And I had done this sort of thing to my knee before - I thought I would take it easy on it for a year and I could build back up to it - but no, I was smacked down with considerable pain. Now I don't run at all for aerobics, it's all stairclimber, swimming, cycling, and hiking. So it may just be time for you to heal, and think of other ways of getting in an aerobic workout, at least until this heels and you can find something you may have done wrong, shoes, overuse, etc. Sucks, too, because a quick jog is a great calorie burner and you don't need a gym membership to do it. But if you have med insurance it would probably be a good idea to go get it x-rayed. And get advice from a podiatrist... Hope you heal soon. I'm recovering from a hand injury that's taking effing months. Argh.
  18. Didn't know the guy either, but I hope I can accomplish the goodwill he has among climbers. My condolences to family and friends.
  19. jclements

    rant

    [/sarcasm] Sorry. Jes bullshittin. 'Fore I would later languish in various California community colleges in such useless classes as Music Appreciation and Foreign Film and French and Calculus and Basket Weaving I went to Nukyalur Power School in the Navy. We did thermodynamics. My point was that - and that video posted by STP is synchronous - if we're just a society of specialists than we're not much further along than pyramid builders and sumerian irrigation ditch diggers. Ivan - are you gonna fix the cable?
  20. jclements

    rant

    In fact I've had fourteen, all homeschooled, so their minds aren't poisoned by all the State's propaganda and gay agenda.
  21. jclements

    rant

    I know the 2nd Law disproves evolution.
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