Reid

I'm interested... check your PM's

I went up this last Saturday and had to carry the skis for 5 mins tops. On the way down I was a little smarter in choosing a route and skied the whole thing. But by this next weekend there may be one or two patches exposed.

I've only got 2 weeks between graduating and my new job. I really have to make use of them. I've got from June 11-24. Check your PM's

The real problem is the canisters just get too cold and there isn't enough pressure to get the stove really roaring. I had pretty good results just warming the canister up with another stove that was being used at the time or using a lighter. Not manufacturer recommended no doubt, but if you aren't stupid about it, it should be okay. If the jetboil is the only stove you are bringing I wouldn't trust it in cold and high altitude places.

If we leave at five will you still pay for lunch?

anytime

Sounds like you have quite a weekend planned Brandon

I've got the same thing going on this week and the weather looks good. Anyone available?

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Yeah that's it. I didn't really think of how difficult it'd be to lead vs. Classic Crack... I TRed them both

heh your on your own for the snow cat ride. I just meant that you should camp away from where they run so you don't get squashed or yelled at. Essentially zero rockfall danger and no more avy danger than that of the ski slopes. You're aware of the condition of the route this year right? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/660671/page/1#Post660671 Enjoy the climb hope the weather holds for you

The route left of classic crack is also a good one that requires jamming. A little easier than classic

True and understandable. I felt plenty beat after that day. The upper part of the palmer (~8500' I think) is not in operation, but the snow cats do run up there during the night. Anywhere past the lift should be fine for camping. No designated or standard spot as far as I know since the terrain is pretty uniform until the crater. If you can, ski the lower half of the route. Only the top 1000' of the route has any kind of fall hazard and is difficult skiing. The rest is pretty easy. I'm a bad skier and I wish I'd done it.

I would say the timberline parking lot. I think that the wind up higher would make for a less than restful night. If you really want to camp up higher I saw a couple tents among some rocks up and climbers right of the top of the palmer.

http://www.c4corvette.com/videos/mini.wmv sorry no you tube

No problem, a lot better than nothing and still long enough to get worn out. 38 or Index?

and a car

So the weather looks dry from now until Thursday and I am free on Thursday after about 11. Anyone interested in spending the rest of the sun-filled day at Index or Exit 38? I'm in Seattle and have rope and rack.

I'm interested in the 2 and 3

The grivel 360's were on sale in the store last I was there. So I picked a couple up. Any one have any experience with these? Easy to place? Or should I go for the petzls? I've only used the BD express so I don't know if any of the variations on the design are worthwhile.

As the saying goes "East is least, West is best" The bearings on that map are right. Just to be sure, a 90 deg bearing is East and 270 is West. And if you are converting true bearings to mag then the saying is accurate. Converting mag to true is the opposite. Screwing up one of these would make the map bearings seem inaccurate.

How's the weather look for monday? It was turning kinda ugly when we were leaving the Timberline. Probably snowed a bunch and you'll find my description totally inaccurate...

I was up there just yesterday. I don't think it was any steeper than 45 deg. The interesting part of the route is that the hogsback is west of its normal position, so it kinda dead ends in the rock towers left of the pearly gates. You can traverse left to the old chute or right to the pearly gates. Either traverse is a little exposed. Not difficult just exposed. My partner requested that we rope up (primarily because he was not feeling well). Pickets worked fine. The pearly gates were pure rime ice. Not vertical or any steeper than the rest of the route as some have reported, but interesting in aluminum crampons and one alpine axe. I used a screw here and we belayed, but on the other hand a couple of people soloed it. The topmost part of the old chute also had some rime ice but much less (probably wouldn't need a screw).

Yeah we did enjoy the top rope sharing. Thanks again. Casey, I didn't know you were on cc.com. I just got a message from David saying you were trying to get a hold of me. I'm on spring break; got any free time yourself?

My schedule for next quarter leaves Thursdays open after 9:30 AM. Send me a PM sometime