My partner and I climbed the Kautz on Sunday-Monday (7/23-24). Accessing the glacier is not too bad. There is a fine rappel of about 30 feet, or a down climb/rappel of about 20 feet. Both end on ice, so have your spikes on if you do it anytime soon. The lower steep section of the glacier is not too bad (one axe if fine). I think we put in a couple screw as running belay. Then you hike to the second "face." We climbed the right side (better rest and belay spots). We did it in 3-4 full pitches and used about 2 screws per pitch (not including the belay spots). I'd say we climbed a few short sections of pretty steep ice (maybe 60 degrees, but btwn 11 and 12,000 feet!) which would have been too steep for me with only one axe. After deciding it'd take a long time to do however many rappels would be needed to get down the ice, we decided to descend the DC route to Muir. The RMI guide trail on that route now goes way over on the Emmons and contours back to the top of the DC below some pretty scary looking seracs (debris was over the trail when we crossed under it -- quickly and quietly!). At Muir, we decided to not cross the upper Nisqually to get our camp (who knows it there would have even been a route, much less solid bridges), so next Saturday I'm headed up to grab our gear. (If you're up there please add a rock to the top of my purple and grey tarp. I'm sure it'll be fine, but a few extra rocks would be super. Actually, we also left another small stash around 8 or 9000 feet (food, booties, etc.) so an extra rock on top of that rock pile/gear stash would be good karma also!).
Awesome climb with a great partner. Only ones on top, which was cool and wild.
If you do the Kautz anytime this summer, I'd definitely recommend taking an ice tool along with your axe (or just two tools). Have fun.
