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ScaredSilly

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  1. ScaredSilly
    A while back the NPS was sued for allegedly failing to initiate a search in a timely fashion. The plaintiffs lost on summary judgement. https://openjurist.org/949/f2d/332/johnson-v-united-states-department-of-interior
  2. ScaredSilly
    Just saw this - PRIMO!!
  3. ScaredSilly
    Look at your X and look at where is it is on the photo I posted up. As said, notice some avy debris near by?? Just enough to side into your X, push it into the crack below, and cover it up all nice and tidy. Never to be found again. FWIW I have camped on the Carbon Glacier proper but it was late winter. I have also camped on the moraine and watched the Willis cut lose and everything in the left side of that picture was covered.
  4. ScaredSilly
    There are probably some places one could bviy at the base of the ridge but yer gonna be probably chopping a ledge a the glacier kicks up as one heads towards the ridge. Other locations on the glacier on the way to the ridge are in a prime line for anything coming off the Willis. Here is a photo from the rangers from last week.
  5. ScaredSilly
    There are many variations on the Reid. Most occur cause what does not seem obvious when climbing is to jump left at various points. If you topped out and could jog right to the regular route then you joined the West Crater Rim Route. So it sounds as though you went straight up rather than the last jog left. When I did the Reid I missed the second jog left and did a lap before going right joining the ridge further down.
  6. ScaredSilly
    For years I have said one could climb Denali and not bring any food whilst surviving on caches. For the OP all of that will survive fine, the biggest problem is stuff freezing. People bring cheese that freezes into a block. Me If were going up the W. Butt. I would bring a big ass cooler for food that I do not want to freeze.
  7. ScaredSilly
    Nice, always fun getting good sticks in conglomerated mud.
  8. ScaredSilly
    Great sleuthing Oly! What year is the year book from?
  9. ScaredSilly
    Marc's father flew into the glacier and posted this: https://www.facebook.com/SergeJLeclerc/posts/10157225935404418 (Edit to add that the link was publicly available initially but you might need to login now).
  10. ScaredSilly
    Not sure about the above but whilst in my early 30s I was finishing grad school. During my last year I climbed number of 5.11 R rated routes on a regular basis. Since then the number of R rated have been very few. I have attributed the head space to do those climbs to being highly focused on grad school which carried over to my climbing.
  11. ScaredSilly
    Here is the latest: http://juneauempire.com/local/news/2018-03-12/update-climbers-presumed-deceased-after-searchers-find-ropes-crevasse
  12. ScaredSilly
    Having lost many friends in the mountains only one really surprised me. That was Alex Lowe, not because he died in the mountains but because it was an exploratory walkabout with a big ass avalanche. Not what I would have expected. Others been been more of wrong place wrong time - rock or ice fall. While others have been because of a lapse in judgment. Those are the hardest. Everyone pushes their own envelope and regardless of the size of the envelope shit can and will happen.
  13. ScaredSilly
    Another but similar news report: http://juneauempire.com/local/news/2018-03-08/search-begins-overdue-mendenhall-towers-climbers Another update: https://www.adn.com/alaska-news/2018/03/09/2-experienced-climbers-still-missing-on-juneau-ice-field-as-weather-hinders-search-efforts/
  14. ScaredSilly
    Watch the video carefully, the terrain is not very steep. He is dancing around with no hands and one foot in the ice. Not saying he would not go for a ride but ... best left to a North Face Professional for click bait.
  15. ScaredSilly
    As everyone has said July is the wrong time of year. My suggestion is pick a nice day and join the masses and skin up from Paradise to Camp Muir on Rainer. That will give everyone some fun.
  16. ScaredSilly
    I think we got further up Yokum Ridge start whilst traversing around to do Sandy Glacier Headwall.
  17. ScaredSilly
    Looks like some good solid nevé.
  18. ScaredSilly
    Great luck !!!
  19. ScaredSilly
    To get better recommendations you need to provide more of details of your abilities - extensive mountaineering experience to me means lots of snow slogging but little technical alpine ice climbing. There is a lack of snow and with warm temps the ice is not good in the Utah/Colorado Rockies. California is suffering as well. So If you want waterfall ice I would head to the great white north to Banff. The Cascades seem to be doing well but also with warmer temps. I saw some posts from folks looking to head into Dragontail and Triple Couloirs. You mention Hood and Yocum Ridge, that is not really a mountaineering route but is a wee bit more of a serious adventure.
  20. ScaredSilly
    Many years ago I got a case of giardia. People have heard of projectile vomiting well I could have hit a bullseye from ten feet away with my backside. Even after that I selectively filter. It really depends on where I am headed. The more people and pack animals more likely I am to filter. Today I am often more concerned with snow pack poop.
  21. ScaredSilly
    Pfff, been using a 100m rope for decades. It is affectionately known as the pig. Especially as it goes into a pink bag. That said for any long rope get one with a bi-pattern.
  22. ScaredSilly
    Just after Fred's book known among many as "Beckey's Best" came out I had him and friends over for a "Beer with Beckey." It was a great gathering of old friends as well as young admirers. One old friend of Fred's showed up with one of the original 2x4 blocks they used in the wide cracks the FA of a climb they had done 50 years before. It was great to see the memorabilia (both living and the gear). I think my lasting memory of Fred will be his spirit. He was happy to just get out. Even if he did not go far. The NY Times Obit: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/31/obituaries/fred-beckey-dead-mountain-climber.html
  23. ScaredSilly
    I quit buying stuff from Chizzler years ago. Mike initially was a great source for the mtneering book community but then became an asshole. Try Greg Glade at Top of the World Books (http://www.topworldbooks.com). He is a fair person.
  24. ScaredSilly
    Being new to the area and to mtneering my suggestion is that if you are jonesing to check out Hood is to got for a walk about up the hill to Illumination Saddle. As Ivan says get to know some of her contours. Some will lead to places you do not want to visit like those who have head down from the summit in a whiteout and walked off ZigZag headwall.
  25. ScaredSilly
    Good Judgment Comes with Experience, But Experience Comes from Bad Judgment
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