Wow, I can't believe Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage made such a late entry, a hugely significant book by a man who was doing extreme alpinism before MT's granddad was born (probably!)
This book inspired a generation of British alpinists(Whillans, Bonnington etc), I agree with Don_Serl re the 2 Bonnatti books being better that the one available now. One ends with the Freney incident, the other starts there. He inspired the next generation of British alpinists.
I'd add 'The Seventh Grade' by Messener.
I really enjoyed Dave Roberts:
Mountains of my Fear and Deborah a Wilderness Narrative, I think he's a very intelligent writer and easily stands up to alot of the Euro/Brit suggestions on the thread. (I'll try and get On the Ridge Between Life and Death)
Pushing the Limits by Chic Scott
Big Wall Climbing by Doug Scott
Anything I've read by Barry Blanchard, is there a definitive list of his stuff anywhere?
Personally I didn't enjoy The Villain that much, I thought it said more about Perrin than anything.
-John
(First post so be gentle please)