MrC

I found a brown bag in the bushes near Lakeway and Humboldt. It is full of miscellaneous climbing gear and has the initials RT on the bag. A description of items in the bag will be requested for proof of ownership. If this is yours or you have any leads to who may have gotten climbing gear stolen... please call Alex @ (208)six0eight-3six8four.

We have lost a truly great man. I had the pleasure of meeting him twice at Mt. Erie--even got to attempt a first on a route he was setting up (barely an attempt to be honest). He will be missed.

Found a pair of Rock Shoes, morning of Sept. 5th. Email to identify (there was a name on them) and claim and I will do my best to get them back to you. mcstnza@aol.com

well darn, it does belong to somebody....I could have used a large cam. (in other words, it is being returned to is owner)

Found an old cam on Mt. Erie, Wednesday April 9. Had a biner attached with colored tape. Email me to identify and I will get it back to you. It was found on the low 5th class at the top, the one beneath the felled tree, and all that is left is a stump?! mcstnza@aol.com

I agree, Fin is low 5th class, but I don't remember anyone mentioning a 5.11 climber. Heck, there are decent 5.6-5.8 on Liberty or SEWS, which are my limit for fun... If you are climbing 5.11, you have my awe!

Becky's guide a bit, one of the students took about 100 picks, I will post them when sent.

Trip: Washington Pass - The Fin Date: 5/29/2007 Trip Report: Beautiful day in the Cascades on Monday as Ken Small and myself led two Mountaineers on their first climb of the season. We left the hairpin turn a little after 7, trudging gradually uphill through a hard crust to the ridge, alternating kicking steps. A sketchy self-belay followed to the valley floor as we began to again head up toward The Fin, left of Tomahawk. Interesting snow conditions and mixed route finally put on the saddle between the two peaks.(almost 5 hours) We dropped gear, and headed right, to the first belay station. We had two rope teams, I went second and scrambled up rotten rock to about 50 meters. Used 3 pieces--a small metolius cam and two nuts. Route finding was tricky but the climbing was low class 5. Second pitch was uneventful, about 20 meters with no reason to place pro or even have a belay. 3rd pitch was the best--I got to place my new cam, an omega pacific and I have to say it worked sweet!! The 3rd pitch ended with a friction slab to the final summit push. No rappel down, we self belayed in the now very soft snow over to where we dropped our packs. The climb took about 3 hours, including the traverse back over. We then headed back down to the valley floor, plunge stepping and a great glissade. The two students kicked primo steps for Ken and me back to the top of ridge (thank God for the young!!)They deserve a toast! More plunge stepping and an epic glissade by Ken and the other two brought us back down and trudging the last mile or two to the road. Car to car, about 12 hours. Gear Notes: I took too much--a few slings and a medium set of cams would probably do--although to protect the crux on pitch one, you need a pretty small cam. Approach Notes: After descending the ridge, there is large rock in front of you, take a left and gradually gain elevation to the saddle between Tomahawk and the Fin.

Yeah, I am gonna blame the whiteout... But in all seriousness, I could barely make out my followers on the way down, and I could not see my leader on the way up. View would of sucked anyway... hmmm, all out of excuses now...

Climb: Sahale-Quien Sabe Glacier Date of Climb: 8/23/2006 Trip Report: Miners trail to Boston Basin, 3 hours. Stayed at Boston Basin till 10:15. Scrambled up boulder fields to glacier by 12:00 or so. Stay close to the moraine on left. Direct approach was extremely crevassed--no path through to be seen. Roped-up near Sharkfin for glacier climb, icy for about 10 meters before moving to right and toward Sahale. Cancelled climb at 2:00 due to bergshrund being severely undercut right under tower and unable to reach the right snow bridge, white-out also added to problems. Back to Boston Basin by 4, left at 4:30. Gear Notes: Crampons, ice ax, 30 meter rope and 60 meter rope for two teams. Shoulda had 5 ice screws!! Approach Notes: Miners trail dusty, overgrown, and long. No snow till glacier at about 7500 feet.

Climb: Slippery Slab Tower-NE Face Date of Climb: 8/20/2006 Trip Report: Hike up to Hope Lake day before (1.5 miles, about 1800 feet elevation gain) Hope Lake to Trappers Pass 7:30-10:00 (3.8 miles, up hill) Pass to Tower, ½ hour (1/2 mile scramble/climbers path) East base is reached by scrambling up boulder field. You will se an obvious gully about 100' feet up to a great platform with trees for first belay station. Rope Up, 11:00 One pitch, dihedral 5+, moved to spine (left) to finish, initial approach of 100’ scramble could be first pitch if needed to rope up. From shelf of trees, 1 pitch easy, no need to use second tree for second belay (only 10 more feet). Randy lead, I followed due to only one pitch and me in Mad Rock Fanatic approach shoes. (note: shoes good for approach, not with pack though) Climb 11:00-1:30 due to trying to protect dihedral. I recommend making it a day trip from Surprise Lake trail--probably car to car in 9 hours!! Base camp at 3:45 Gear Notes: Protection: .75 cam to 2 cam. Pinky tri-cam on dihedral. 1 gray hex, #4 stopper. Rack needed—small to medium nuts/hexes and smaller size cams.

I have a forester--gets me ANYWHERE I need to go, especially in Washington and snow covered roads. Averaging about 32 Highway and 26 city right now. Most FWD can barely match that...

Thanks for the information.

I am looking for a pair of approach/climbing shoes since I do not climb above a 5.8 anyway. Has anybody worn Madrock Fanatics? What do you think of them? Any other recommendations? Thanks

Thanks to Bruce of Redmond and his climbing partner, my ice ax has been returned and the climbing gods are happy!!

Thanks catbirdseat. I am pretty sure it was the second pitch, east face (its the real blocky climb, when up a small 45 degree snow slope to access a bench, and climbed from there), when it fell out. I never heard a clatter, just when I summited, it was gone.

Lost an ice ax on High Priest, in the Enchantments. Please post if found-reward for the return and a beer for carrying it out!!

Just finished a 3 day sojourn into Temple Canyon and a climb of High Priest (5.3). At about half way around Nada Lake (Snow Lakes Trail) turned right and scrambled up the boulders to Temple Canyon--with a full pack, a way harder climb than High Priest. The climb itself was uneventful except for two things--lost a stopper near the summit(stuck fast) and my ice ax somewhere...Anyone find it, please let me know!! A lot of loose stone, watch what you grab. On the way out, we went over Prussik Pass. Ok, here is the real big story--one of our party had a bad slip and went 300 feet over a small cliff and finally rested on some rock. Thanks to the powers that be, he had only minor lacerations and was severly shaken. He actually hiked out on his own power. What an animal. Anyone in the Alpine Lakes on Tuesday, June 27 and saw the chopper flying around, they were looking for us!!

Road is still closed to Artist point. Snow is hard though and you can slog it up and over to Lake Anne, but why? There is still some snow toward the end on Yellow Aster Butte trail. Another idea would be Heliotrope and camp on the Moraine... trailhead is finally open I hear?!

Climb: South Early Winter Spire-Southwest Arete Date of Climb: 6/18/2006 Trip Report: Headed up to SEWS Sunday about 7:30. Trail is still covered in snow but at least you can now park at the trailhead. Route finding all the way up to the saddle, took about 2 hours; there is no clear boot-path, meaderings everywhere. It was a beautiful day and a beatiful climb. The fin still has one very bent bolt, you can fit a biner in it for some protection, we ran a fixed rope over it. Gear Notes: Small rack, nothing over 1 1/2 inches. Brought way too much gear. You can pretty much scramble from the chimney on...