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jfs1978

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Everything posted by jfs1978

  1. Depends on the mountain and your experience level. Since you are just starting out I'd recommend teaming up with someone on early trips...or go on mellow dayhikes as you figure out what your limits are. Backpacking solo is fine for anyone who knows how to navigate, knows their physical limits, travels prepared for the conditions, recognizes the added risk if injured, and accepts the responsibility of self-rescue if necessary. You mention crampons and axe. I would not recommend going on trips requiring these until you are more experienced. Glacier travel solo is not advised (although is done) for experienced climbers and is definitely a no-go for a newbie without technical know-how or knowledge of the area. Leave the tools at home so you aren't tempted to go places you shouldn't. That said, there are plenty of hikes and summits you can solo safely - especially after gaining some experience. Backpacking into the middle of nowhere alone can be incredibly rewarding and enjoyable. Just be prepared and don't be stupid.
  2. NICE pics guys. I'm hoping that 'schrund holds together for just a little bit more...
  3. Anyone been up? I checked with the Detroit Ranger office and they said 2243 was open to TH at least. Anyone have a conditions report on the route itself? how's the 'schrund this year? How much snow coverage on the ridge and pinnacle? etc... thanks.
  4. aside from the normal newbie crowds and occasional freakouts in that area - this past weekend I also saw (heard actually) my first 'rapp'ed off the end of the rope' incident as i was taking my buddy's kids up Ginger Snap. The guy barely fell any distance at all...but the sound of a body hitting the ground, from 5 feet or 50 feet.....was something I don't want to hear again...brrrrrr.
  5. aaaah...so this was your first solo AID climb of Mt. Hood then. ha! i kid...
  6. thanks guys - will go find me a copy.
  7. Anybody have recommendations on good rock/self-rescue books? thanks.
  8. ...old school pack too. i must be a complete biiiatch with all my high tech gear. will be going all cotton, hobnails, wooden axe, and canvas woodframe pack next time... gotta give 'im props for gittin' 'er dun i guess... steeper yes - but (on the left) pretty chopped out and mellow despite all the hype it's gotten this year. From the shape of things saturday I would say you don't need a second tool for the left chute, except to beat off the hordes all funneling through (felt like the DMV office up there - take a number...and wait). The rest of my trips up this year will NOT be SS/PG... I went up the left, decided i'd had enough of that crap, and down the right (east) side. Depending on your comfort level, a second tool might be advised if you come down/up the right side - but honestly, with the tight awkward squeezes involved in the lower section, a second standard axe would probably just turn it into a fumble-bumble-fest. Anyway...short version is this side is also not as intense (not anymore at least) as all the hype either - but does require more care than normal conditions. Oh - and despite my griping - it was a BEAUTIFUL day up on the mountain and well worth it. Gotta love our little, local volcano...even if it IS a bit OVER-loved. edit: just noticed i've made "newbie" CCer status...woot woot...movin' on up...
  9. thanks - called em. interesting...they are recommending not going to Pamelia. Evidently a very large slide has wiped out a big portion of the trail...shifted the creek path about 100 feet. Large boulders "blocking" passage at this time. might be worth a look just to see what's changed, if not climb from the south side. anybody else been in to see this? According to the desk, access to Whitewater is still 3 mi from TH.
  10. Probably not much change but...anybody have an updated access report for either 2243 or Pamelia Lake TH? Most recent Detroit Ranger District report is still listing as 'No Access'...
  11. OK - for any residents of Oregon then...everyone else can ignore this...
  12. I'll second grandpa's point. If you haven't written to your senator (a little late for rep's i suppose) - do it now. we can gripe and whine and moan all we want but until we speak up, this is just going to keep steam-rolling along. Maybe everyone here has already done this (good on ya if so)... and if you HAVE written that just means (no surprise here) that our rep's didn't listen to us/voters any more than the SAR experts that went down to Salem... Time to vote some asses back out onto the street if you ask me... Either way - make yourself heard... We might STILL get steam-rolled (we make up a small lunatic fringe anyway right? ) but at least we'll have more of a leg to stand on when we get all pissed off about it. here's a link to figure out how to submit a note to your legislator... Oregon State Senate
  13. heh - no worries on our end. those echo chambers have a way of amplifying your shouts to everyone except your belayer.
  14. lol - ah...faces to names. all me and my partner could tell was that some dude named Ian wasn't getting the message to "FIX THE F***ING ROPE". I think all the hikers were getting it though. several times. had us cracking up. nice work on the climb though btw.
  15. thanks for the badass shot down MF from the cave. my partner's on the bolt-ladder, making me the big-footed gumby down on Bohn Street. nice meeting you guys. props on zebra-zion regardless of any flailing - great route.
  16. Report: Two survivors located... Charge em! Crazy thrill seekers aren't going to waste MY tax dollars. ...in seriousness...i hope they're ok... now, moving on...
  17. thanks much for the info everyone. i hope to get up there in the near future to check it out.
  18. Didn't realize this forum was here...this is a bit (a lot) late but worth a shot. 1/13/07 Mt. Hood - Left my BRAND F%$*&!@! NEW BD CONTOUR TREKKING POLES IN THE LOWER LODGE men's bathroom on the shelf above the sinks!!! dummkopf!!! thanks.
  19. I have a potential job opportunity in Sandpoint. I don't know ANYthing about the area's climbing (if it has any...or if it is an unsung mecca of climbing/alpine utopia...). For someone in love with NW glaciated peaks, cragging, and moderate alpine rock what does N Idaho have to offer? How far to drive to good climbing areas? Bugaboos? Multi-pitch trad? Sport? What kind of climber community/network is there? thanks all.
  20. Conditions were great on SS above ~9,500 on Saturday morning. Snowpack was perfect, almost no wind, calm on the summit. Went Old Chute...did not check conditions of P Gates but assume they are still steep and icy. Out of curiousity, where exactly is the ice...bottom of the lower chute or in the left/right upper chutes? Haven't been able to tell from the pics online.
  21. yup Kauli - just to add my own good vibes... there are a lot of climbers who are not just **hoping** these guys tough it out and come home safe...we are ***expecting*** them to come down soon. maybe a little worse for wear =) and a tad worn out...but home safe. and yup - blue sky down where i am too...but webcams seem to be out on the mountain. Feels like things are much improved/improving though...
  22. also speculation - but my impression is that the other two were possibly capable of still topping out...in which case, the quickest way to reach assistance would be to drop down to Timberline. In the conditions we've had, it would be easy to imagine them falling prey to the same south side disorientation problems we've all seen happen before...following the fall line down the Zig Zag. guesswork - sorry if inappropriate here. Wishing these guys the best. keep holding on guys... incidentally, it's nice to see the support and good vibes being sent out from here - in case any of us/I ever end up in a bind like this, it's always comforting to know there's a lot of folks pulling for ya...
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