jfs1978

no problem Couloir. Have fun.

FWIW - 6/19/08

Found one pair of climbing shoes at the base of Phoenix Buttress at Smith on 6/15. If yours, post the description.

A #8 Kouba brass nut (from Czech Rep.), from 10 feet short of the anchor on Moonshine Dihedral at Smith. Took about a fifteen footer, catching my foot on a nubbin on the way down. I wish I still had the nut but I was too chicken to finish and the tweaked ankle was a handy excuse to go whimpering home - shameful. Some lucky climber got to booty the nut...hopefully it found a good home. =)

weird place indeed. 11 pages deciding if a fall was HUGE...Really BIG, kinda big, not so big, sorta small, or just plain weeny. Still kinda fun watching some fireworks.

Alpinist - On Sight Movie Website: Posing Productions Film By: Alastair Lee 2008 Posing Productions On Sight is a gripping adventure into the world of cutting edge rock and ice climbing documenting what is possible with a ground-up, no pre-practice approach. The climbers in this film aren't necessarily the strongest, but they are willing to take a 30-foot fall for the ultimate onsight ascent. Since Alpinist is the arbiter of all things bad-a$$ and stuff.

Overnight: A 40 percent chance of snow. Monday: A 50 percent chance of snow. Monday Night: Snow likely. Tuesday: Periods of snow showers. Tuesday Night: Snow showers likely. Wednesday: Snow showers likely. Wednesday Night: A 40 percent chance of snow showers. Thursday: A slight chance of snow showers. Thursday Night: A chance of snow showers. Friday: A chance of snow showers. Friday Night: A chance of snow showers. Saturday: A chance of snow showers. Saturday Night: A chance of snow showers. Sunday: A chance of snow showers. ...................... ............................. .................................... DAMMIT!!! stop already!

PM sent...

They were my starter cams too (Robots). They're ok...any issues/shortfalls have already been mentioned - but they are totally functional. I'll second the stability and range comments...more likely to walk/twist than my normal C4s. As a result, I only use them now if I need triples/quads of a given size. As a starter set...they're fine. But they will eventually get relegated to the bottom of the gear horde/pile. Buy/save accordingly.

Anybody up for a day at Smith tomorrow? Trad or Sport...5.easy to 5.11- or will follow a ropegun? cheers, js

Well, hardly famous but..might as well chime in...and add to the inventory of booty-able gear out there... Worked on a shiny #4 Metolius at the base of the offwidth pitch on Dragontail's backbone arete last August. Another 5 minutes and it woulda been booty. Looked to be in good shape too dammit.

Getting the shoes resoled... Just curious if anyone has preferences between Vibram XSV, Stealth C4, and Stealth Onyx (XS Grip, my old stuff, isn't available at this shop). Climbing is mostly at Smith...so tuff and basalt. Have always climbed in La Sportiva shoes...Vibram only I think. The only time I've climbed on Stealth was in shoes that were two sizes too big...so i hated it. Others swear by it. Any opinions y'all?

And i'm just a faceless asshole on an internet forum. cheers to ya and good luck on your climbing career...

JEEZ dude, go back and proofread your posts for s***'s sake! I think it's awesome that you want to get out and climb...but holy crap, I can't understand half of what you're saying! A (hopefully) helpful link for you... Proofreading It might reduce the amount of crap getting flicked your way. At least it'll reduce my annoyance level. cheers.

No worries. I'm not one to turn down a well-intentioned word of caution or beta. Appreciate the concern. The NWS has precip arriving a bit earlier than NCAR and local tv (not sure what rbw is referring to). We'll keep our eyes out and can always either bail to WCR/SS (pretty familiar) or, of course, the parking lot if we aren't feeling it at illum saddle. am fairly careful - thus the request for thoughts here (the forum where I'm guaranteed to get the beat-down if I ask or do something idiotic ). thanks.

Noticed the outlook getting worse as today moved on...but the system still looks to be 24 hours out. 6, 12, 18, and 24 hr outlooks still had the precip staying in southern oregon...unless I'm missing something. Enlighten and/or educate me? cheers js

Planning either Leuthold or RGH tonight dependng on how things look when we get there... NWAC sounds like things s/b mellow. Am expecting everything to be pretty stable after last bout of sunshine and dry...but never been on West side. Possible windslab build-up? Any comments on recent conditions on routes? Thanks any...

got a link handy by any chance? thanks.

thanks for the route descrip. We definitely didn't hit the upper HW on the red line - seems like we were just right of that, but well left of sunshine. thanks again.

Nice report. I was wondering how the north side was looking. Good on ya for gettin home safe. Looks like fun. My hands are itchin' to break out the tOOls... Can anyone clarify for me exactly where the route taken falls in relation to the standard Sunshine route? From the pics and description it sounds/looks like the same route I took last year...thinking I was roughly on Sunshine (was my only trip up the North side). Did I have my head up my ass? Or am I just confusing the TR's description...?

Might be up for roping up. Currently climb at Smith on most weekends...will probably have some weekdays free now... PM what kind of climbing you want to do... Might be there with a group this weekend.

damn dude! rough year for you. don't know ya and don't post here much - but wishin you the best.

unfortunately I am fatter than you... =) thanks anyway - cheers. js

The only size charts I find for the Mammut Champs are waist/inseam - no "medium"...any idea what yours are?

Again - it all depends on the summit and your experience...regardless of whether it's in AK or elsewhere. Less technical, non-glacial climbs would be fine solo. Even some routes on bigger mountains are solo-able. But by the time you are to the point of considering those summits as legitimate goals, you will (hopefully) have gained the experience and good judgement to make those decisions for yourself. As a rule, solo climbs on bigger mountains (i.e glaciers, ice, high altitude) are not something you should consider for a very long time. Teams rope up on them for a reason. If your question is, "is it possible to solo big mountains" then yes - it's done by climbers with years of experience. Start small...this is a question you'll answer for yourself as you gain experience.