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billbob

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Posts posted by billbob

  1. Couple weeks ago the bathroom by the climber's register was open. Maybe they learned.

    The main parking lot is well lit and has marked areas for overnight parking, suggest using far left side. Don't park by the Lodge. Bring lots of beer and leave a six-pack under rear bumper, it's said to bring good luck on your climb...

  2. Various ideas from a wasted break-time at work:

     

    Little paddles at the back of skis could turn mini-generators, preferably with various types of paddles to suit conditions, more preferably wherein the generator load could be varied to the slope angle or disconnected when skinning uphill. In another example of the invention, a propellor could be mounted to the head of the skier to generate additional current. Wires from the generator would be attached to various sensitive body parts to generate muscle spasms to assist skier in attaining ultimate syle. Finally, a small turbine could be mounted at the anal orifice of skier, whereby said anal generator could be powered by typical climber foodstuffs or said skier could simply hold open their mouth while traveling downhill at speed, allowing free air passage through the intestinal passage and effectively funneling large quantities of air by virtue of the over-developed mouth on many skiers. Hope this helps!

  3. All testosterone-pumping and posturing aside, riding the machine still looks like fun and I'd like to try it just once. What's the big deal with that? Give my old bones and stainless steel body parts a break for a change. Besides, I heard it has a wet bar...

  4. If you give more advance notice then you might get more takers... I tried this tactic a couple months ago with little success, but now that the climbing season is near, there would be more potential riders. I can posssibly take 2-5 seats if on a weekend.

  5. Having camped at about the 9,600' level to the right of Crater Rock prolly 10 times over the past two years, I can list some pros and cons thusly:

    Pros: acclimatization is somewhat improved, the scenery is outstanding if weather is good, summit day effort is less, and you get a more (IMO) "alpine experience".

    Cons: If the weather turns then you sleep poorly if at all, sometimes you choke on sulfur fumes from above, you have to carry a ton more stuff, setting up camp can take considerable effort since level sites are tough to find, and if the weather gets really bad you risk having your tent destroyed.

     

    In short, it really depends on what sort of climbing experience you are after and how much time you have. Did I mention that camping entails carrying a LOT more weight? Try getting to the top of the Palmer with a 50+ lb pack in 2 hrs. Try descending with that same pack in whiteout with ice, high wind, freezing rain, etc. Doing the overnight w/ skis is even tougher. Some people wait for summer before slogging up for overnighters. Some take the opportunity to practice w/ snow caves or just bivy sacks. The nice thing is that the S Side is a good place to practice such skills given the (relatively) easy bail out options.

  6. One could argue that Trolls play an important part in stimulating discussions by presenting different perspectives from outside the climber community. Open discussion is a worth-while thing. Alternatively, they could just be argumentative jerks with no redeeming values whatsoever as they attempt to foment unwarranted concerns among the non-climbing public through exaggeration far beyond that which is supported by the current data. Hmmm...

  7. One would think that, given this winter's incidents, people would get the idea that upper elevations on Hood in winter is not a particularly user-friendly place to be. Experience in white-out conditions, standard alpine climbing equipment (GPS, compass/map etc.) and a lot of local knowledge mitigate risk to a great extent. MLU's are a choice we have in terms of insurance but they aren't a substitute for competence. Winter climbs on any PNW alpine routes demand a lot of respect and attention to weather changes.

  8. Rock and ice do fall off Crater Rock...

    Also note that snow conditions above the Palmer on Sat were about 8" of loose unconsolidated stuff not adhering well to ice below. Makes it tough to dig a cave unless you find better on the lee side of something big. Also note that winds on or near the White Canyon ridge can be challenging at times. Check out current conditions at Timberline lodge website, top of magic mile lift.

  9. Ya, they would agree to do a "special". Maybe they don't get a lot of business this time of year. No limit was mentioned but would want to keep it to max 5 others. We would, to some extent, be subject to typical winter conditions. As to the route, that is really tbd as even the usual Old Chute/Pearly Gates (this winter) are a bit more than the usual newbie would want to deal with. Personally I would be fine w/ the WCR or chutes as this is intended as a bridge out of newbie-ness and since mentors are hard to find...

  10. Fellow Newbies - I am interested in doing a 2 day Advanced Climbing course through Timberline Mountain Guides on Mt. Hood. It would consist of a first day going over lots of technical things and a second summit day doing Leuthold or similar route. Point is, it would be way cheaper if at least one other person wanted to join in. See their web page at http://www.timberlinemtguides.com/Mountaineering/MtHood.html

    We would plan on doing this on a weekend with decent weather permitting sometime between late Feb - late March.

    If anyone has an opinion of TMG or a suggestion for another guide co., please give it up. I'm getting tired of learning things the hard way.

     

  11. Josh,

    Better watch the weather real close before making the trip, and if it looks good then still keep a sharp eye out cuz it can go from great to shit about as fast as you can get down. Even a weak warm front moving through is enough to bring 60-80mph winds near the peak along w/ freezing rain (last weekend). Avi danger is pretty high these days. We have a lot more bad weather than good in winter, so the odds of picking a random weekend and finding good weather and snow conditions are not in your favor. Be prepared for total white-out. Good Luck.

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