billbob

Prefer trekking w/ Czechs over Poles.

I hereby swear and attest the following is true, even if you think it sounds so stupid that only a moron would ever do this (you don't know me). I got a tens unit after a bad motorcycle wreck forked up me back. Cost like 500 bucks. The electrical pulses can be varied in length and intensity. Heard some folks swear by them but I didn't appreciate the extra muscle spasms in an already sore back. Supposed to strengthen muscles under the stick-on electrodes. I thought it would be more entertaining to place the electrodes in more strategic locations and thereby strengthen something of more prurient interest. Turns out that: 1. A penis is not a muscle, and 2. Numerous and repeated electrical shocks to one's genitalia can cause over-stimulation of anatomically associated parts, not necessarily a good thing if one has plans for later in the day. That said, I think it still works if anyone wants to buy a slightly abused tens unit :-)

Scary ! Reminds me about the story of the Voodoo Penis...

BB Rule #1: Never forget to bring earplugs. BB Rule #2: Pick your climbing partners with care. Spending time w/ various personalities might be OK at a party, but days spent waiting in a tent/snow cave for a storm to lift whilst listening to whining, boring, idiotic bullshit is not OK. BB Rule #3: As mentioned above, duct tape is a useful thing. In case Rules 1 & 2 are forgotten, a dozen wraps around the face can be very handy indeed.

We digress from a serious subject...

we wait and we wait for a break in the weather planning the routes to climb up together but avi's are nigh so let's all get high and climb up the breasts of young Heather! now, if that isn't the dumbest thing I've ever written..!

Why rope up if no pro ??

Wx forecasts show sunny Thurs & Fri, thus might one reasonably expect adequate consolidation by Sat AM ? If something is going to slide, will things have settled out for relatively safe conditions by early Sat? You might also consider, what with the anticipated high weekend temps, a veritable butt-load of ice fall could be seen/felt in exposed places when the sun pops up.

Might want to add "occasional / frequent whiteout conditions" ?

Looks like the guy in the red coat is contemplating the muttzamas route... is he the one who forgot the rope?

Put a saddle on that sucker and ride.

Says he's too tall to ride, besides he walks almost as fast as I ski. That said, I heard he's damn good at falling and coming out unscathed, maybe we should organize an event to watch him try. I'll supply the beer!

At 9 my son started on a relatively simple wall at the school gym so I started taking him to a "real" rock gym. Amazing how fast they learn and grow! Bringing in tutors like Tony Yaniro and Boone Speed may have been a bit over the top in the early years, but they helped intoduce training techniques and got the good habits going. He was in the USA Climbing comp circuit for five years before burning out. It's a delicate balance between competition success and just plain fun in climbing, so be careful about pushing. I'm not sure the mental stress is all that healthy for kids since they typically lack the tools to cope until some level of maturity is reached. After a year of sloth and almost 16, he's only now wanting to climb again.

Not really, just not easily impressed. Too many wannabe's out there trying to be the "first". To the point that most of the antics are uninspiring and boring. STFU noob Sounds like somebody had a bad day

Lots of talk. Set a date. Couloir needs a handicap, like wearing crampons. No, wait - what if he only drank beer the whole way?

Kids! Why, when I was a young lad we ran it in one day on all three legs. Three days on one leg? One day on three kegs?

I had promised my sister to take her BF on a easy climbing trip. Conditions were great on the drive up, then we hiked a few miles and set up basecamp. Unfortunately we were so buzzed from the 12 hr drive/party that we had neglected to pick up supplies (actually we did get a bag of candy bars at a gas stop). Next morning we hiked out early, then drove back to the nearest store, leaving all the gear at camp. Returning later on the access road found heavy snowfall eventually stopping the car 3 miles from the TH, so we starting hiking back with two grocery bags of supplies and a replacement bag of candy bars. Slowed by drifts and "Brother Dan", we arrived back at the TH at dusk, just as the storm was really picking up. Dan says "I can't feel my feet" and I only then notice he's wearing construction boots and corduroy pants (and cotton sweat pants) which are all frozen stiff. No way we would make the ridge walk back to camp like this, so we piled into the back of an old datsun pickup w/ a little topper over the bed. OK, yeah, this sucks but things could be way worse. Dan continues complaining about his feet for a while. Finally I suggested he take off his boots and socks and put his feet under my jacket. The wind is howling, the little truck is rocking with the gusts, and it's gotta be in the low 20's. For sure my little sister would kill me if I let anything bad happen to her BF. As Dan removed his frozen leathers it immediately became all too obvious that he suffered from some sort of rare mutant foot fungus, and consequently an odor most foul emanated from under my parka all night long while Dan and I sat and shivered and smoked and ate snickers until sunrise. Maybe he couldn't help it, maybe it was some rare genetic disorder or possibly he had picked up some tropical affliction not of his own accord, and I know it sounds awful to say this, but Dan, I STILL hate you.

Thanks for the details, appreciate your experience and all the info on snow conditions ! Late Saturday afternoon(4-ish) I met a couple youths up at the I-Rock saddle who told me they had gone up the Leuthold and descended the Gates. Being the nosy type I asked them "by what means did you descend over the large ice step?", to which they replied "we just downclimbed w/ no pro". One could only politely assume they were simply far more accomplished climbers than they appeared, given the potential for disaster and all that. Being an older type, I try to avoid such situations and typically employ solid anchors connected to a reliable rope/climbing partner.

Experienced partners preferred, Sat-Sun this weekend. Camping I-Rock Sat nite, have the orange Sierra tent. Other W side routes possible, not locked into doing Leuthold just anticipating west side conditions to be decent Addendum: 4 PM following Monday - (aka Epistle of the 5 P's) Last weekend saw great conditions, camped alone at I-Rock saddle, no partner to be found. Wasn't into downclimbing the 10' ice step on the descending SS route without a belay & partner. Yeah, I could have left an anchor and rapped down the Pearly Gates but was too hung over to consider it.

Hey thanks for the nice early morning pics, looks like somebody has the alpine start down. We need a guinea pig for the first run up that WCR slab, wait and see if there aren't a few volunteers this weekend.

Two days for an old guy like me is doable barring a heart transplant in the near term. Twenty or so mpd is a good pace given the terrain unknowns. That said, if there is enough interest perhaps consideration might be given to doing both 1 & 2 day groups starting at the same time?

PM'd

I'm in s pdx with the ride, 5am departure plans, room for 5 comfortably, 6 if very close friends. Need meeting spot near I-5 & 217.

One Day ?!! How many miles?? I just want to know what you are eating!

SS sucked today, wouldn't have gone but for the need. Moderate wind, typical whiteout above 8K, ubiquitous ice pellets, and damn is that snow level almost above the Silcox?. Postholing in snowshoes up Palmer since the cat hasn't been there since when. Way too slabby up there (duh). Maybe next week, more likely not given the current conditions. Heard this winter is looking like record snowfall at Rainier, what about Hood ?