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Good2Go

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Everything posted by Good2Go

  1. I switched from the old reverso to the BD guide because the guide is tested/approved for rapping using the non-friction side (i.e., threaded so that you brake on the smooth side), whereas the reverso wasn't. I hated rapping with the reverso. Way too much friction/heat on a standard single rope IMO. Otherwise, they seem to operate the same. After a buddy got the new reverso, we checked out the petzl site and could not find any testing/approval for smooth side rapping. The aluminum is much thicker on the new model (on the smooth side), so it's probably ok. But, I would prefer to have the manufacturer confirm that fact. Also, it's an auto-locking (not auto-blocking) device, right?
  2. Great route! Thanks much to BCD for the work and for covering the cost of the hardware. Love those clip anchors. I'd say cleaning all the dirt out of the cracks did far more to soften the difficulty of the climb than adding the new bolt. Strange how the bolt nazis never seem to complain about that though. Thanks also to whoever put the new bolt anchors in at the top of Roger's Corner/bottom of BoC. That slung tree always seemed sketchy to me.
  3. Nice work! Did you need axe and crampons to access the base of the route?
  4. Chasin the Lizard, 10a. Yet another "forgotten" Index classic!
  5. God is telling you to ski June powder on Rainier: EXTENDED FORECAST... .THURSDAY NIGHT...SNOW AND RAIN. SNOW LEVEL 4500 FEET. .FRIDAY...SHOWERS. SNOW LEVEL 4000 FEET. .FRIDAY NIGHT...SHOWERS LIKELY. SNOW LEVEL 4000 FEET. .SATURDAY THROUGH SUNDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A CHANCE OF SHOWERS. SNOW LEVEL 4500 FEET. .MONDAY THROUGH TUESDAY...SHOWERS LIKELY. SNOW LEVEL 5000 FEET.
  6. Great beta, thanks! How was the tick factor?
  7. Anybody been up there yet this season or in past seasons when there's still a fair amount of snow about?
  8. For cross country/trail riding, Tiger Mtn (off summit of Hwy 18) is the best spot locally. Unfortunately, it's wet as hell there until like June-ish. Prolly closed to bikes right now too (I think it usually opens in May). There are some great trails up there with enough climbing to cobble together a decent variety of loop rides.
  9. Me too. chivato I'm your huckleberry. So, what everybody's been saying about you is true eh, Sobo? Which one is you in this picture? http://www.juniorpoliceacademy.org/assets/images/Junior_Police_Academy_Homepage02.jpg I'm guessing the fat kid with glasses on the right (i.e., the cop's left hand man.)
  10. Hey Good to Go, Thanks for the perspective and I appreciate your points. Allow me to respond to a few of your comments and questions. 1) I don't see how they could have been unaware of the trespass as there are in fact signs posted at the point where the road meets the trailhead where they came from.How are you so sure they came in from there and saw those signs? My understanding is that riding is legal on surrounding property. Could they not have come in from a different point? BTW - Your original post suggested that you didn't know whether riding in that canyon is illegal. Have you now confirmed that it is with the land manager (you mentioned you were going to try to contact him)? For the record, just because an area is designated as a wildlife refuge does not mean that it is illegal to ride dirt bikes there. Most of the area east of E-burg and N of I-90 all the way to the Columbia are designated as wildlife refuges (Colockum, Whiskey Dick, etc.), and dirt bike riding is legal there during most of the warmer months of the year. 2) As for speaking to them, they were racing by at full, loud speed about a football field away. Impossible to speak to them. So, they only went by once? BTW - I've noticed an existing network of trails in that basin as well as what looked like an old jeep road. Were they actually riding on those trails or were they roosting about willy-nilly? Be honest now 3) However, when done climbing for the day, I did drive down the road with the intent to speak with them and they had already left. That's when I saw the signs posted. Again, how do you know they saw the signs? My point was (and is) simply that it may have been an unintentional mistake, as opposed to an intentional disregard of the law, which is what your original post suggested. The law may draw no disctinction, but I believe it is relevant to this discussion. 4) Even if they were ignorant of the rules for whatever reason, that does not entitle them to do something as destructive as what they did. Right, but your suggested course of action implies that you want them to be punished (in addition to just stopping the alleged illegality). Wouldn't the appropriate response and measure of justice depend on their mindframe (e.g., guilty intent or not)? I'm not trying to suggest that the act (if illegal) is excusable, I'm merely suggesting that there may be a better way to address the situation, rather than just dialing 911. If your goal is to prevent this from happening again, then it seems to me more signage would be more effective than calling the authorities every time (because there are likely times when no chivatos will be there with cellys at the ready, like in the middle of summer). 5) So while I may be a little bit harsh, perhaps you will consider the possibility that you are being a little bit lenient. Not lenient, just practical. I guarantee you the govt'l entities over there are more likely to identify with the bikers than with us climbers. We are definitely not helping our cause If we go calling them up every weekend to report dirt biking that turns our to be legal. 6) I think more signage is a fine idea but the existing signage didn't work -- not sure why these particular riders would respond differently to MORE signage. Again, how come you are you so sure this was an intentional violation? Your original post sure didn't suggest such certainty. Perhaps that is up to the land use manager to determine, as is his job. 7) I don't know what f'ing chivatos are but if you want to perceive my post as encouraging the community to be that, you may do so. What I want is for the Coulee not to have motor bikes tearing it up. I don't either, so long as it's illegal. (BTW - I wouldn't ride there even if it was legal, as a courtesy to the climbers. But that's just me.) If that makes me a chivato, then I will happily be one. I'm sure your high school vice principal would be very proud! I think it's great that you're a member of the biking community who follows the rules, and I appreciate your perpective. But I disagree with you. I think I can live with that
  11. Aren't you being just a touch harsh in your approach G-boy? The dirt bike and sledding communities are well aware of the negative perception many people have about their sports. (Full disclosure, I'm guilty on both counts.) And, the overwhelming majority of users want to (and do) comply with the law. For example, I sled in the legal portions of the Teanaway and Salmon la Sac valley pretty much weekly during the winter (mostly, but not always, to get access to bc skiing terrain) and I also ride my dirt bike frequently on legal singletrack in the same areas in the summer and I can't recall ever seeing anyone intentionally violating a wilderness boundary up there. Not saying it never happens, but it's definitely not the norm. I strongly suspect that the folks you saw were either unaware of the trespass (especially if there is a legal riding area immediately adjacent) or they are simply a-holes acting as individuals, not as representatives of the greater dirt bike community. You mention "taking responsibility to protect the area in which we climb." I can relate to that, but I don't agree that the right thing to do is to immediately dial 911. If you could hit them with a frisbee, couldn't you have at least made an attempt to talk with them? That's what I would have done. And, if you'd really like to make an impact, I suggest you spearhead an effort to put some signs up where the private land meets the wildlife refuge so that it's clear that the area is prohibited. (There are lots of existing trails in that basin that might lead a person to think it's ok to ride there.) I'm not saying it's your responsibility to do that, but it seems a whole lot more positive then encouraging the CC community to become a bunch of f'ing chivatos.
  12. Great TR. I did that same route last summer. We were pretty surprised to encounter a stout enduro layback crack somewhere about the 3rd pitch from bottom of the ridge. The crack wasn't on any of the topos we could find for the lower ridge (none of which were very detailed btw). Had we known how strenuous it would be, we probably would have hauled packs on that pitch. Anybody know if we were off route? Could it have been the famous "death crack" mentioned in the Kearney guide book?
  13. I've got one good for Friday, July 6 through Monday. July 9, via the Snow Creek entrance. Anybody got an August or September permit they want to trade?
  14. Experiences may vary, but I asked around quite a bit before deciding not to file my claim and was surprised to discover that the trend seems to be that filing a non-catastrophic claim will put you on the shit list. BTW - The insurance co's are definitely sharing your claims history: http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/Insurance/InsureYourHome/InsurersKeepASecretHistoryOfYourHome.aspx
  15. What's really sick is that if you file a claim you're likely to get a huge increase in your renter's/homeowner's policy, or they may even cancel the policy (I was told 2 claims for theft or minor damage and nobody will insure you). And, your claims history is shared among the companies, so you may have trouble getting a policy later when you really need it (like when you buy your first house and the mortgage requires the coverage), even with just one theft claim in your history! (Theft claims are apparently a major source of insurance fraud.) I learned this the hard way last year when my rack, rope, pack and other goodies were stolen out of my truck. I wound up not filing a claim, even though I had renter's insurance. As for vigilante-ism: I say by all means do it, just don't be stupid and brag about it. And don't forget, go for the nut shot BEFORE they pull out the gun
  16. How do I post an image (in this case a few jpg's)? I've read the faq, and I've even posted a pic before, but I can't seem to get it to work this time (which is why I resorted to the non-functioning link in the first place). Pathetic, I know.
  17. I think the linky is fixed, but I'm challenged by such things, so no promises.
  18. Trip: Washington Pass - Birthday Tour & Kangaroo Temple Couloir Date: 4/29/2007 Trip Report: Warmed up on the Birthday Tour. Overcast skies kept the snow crusty pretty much all the way around. Beautiful views made it worthwhile, nonetheless. That, and occasional glimpses of the Kangaroo Temple Coolie getting sun. We accessed the KTC via the skier's left trending couloir that joins at the top. Skinned the first half and then kicked steps in perfect snow the rest of the way up. Snow on the way down was perfect corn and butter slush. In hindsight, we shoulda been lapping that baby all day. Pics: http://www.kodakgallery.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?&collid=271860602103.700068508403.1177975086629&page=1&sort_order=0&navfolderid=0&folderid=0&ownerid=0 Gear Notes: Harscheisen recommended for the Birthday Tour. Approach Notes: Parking at Blue Lake is tight, and nonexistent at the hairpin. We wound up parking about a quarter mile W of the hairpin and then skinned back to the WA Pass sign, where we started a gradually ascending traverse toward the BL basin. Worked great, no hitchhiking required. Also, the main entrance to the Hairpin Couloir is icy/runneled. An axe might be handy if you plan to go that way. Didn't look like anybody had hit it yet this year.
  19. Doesn't anybody read AAC's Accidents in N American Mountaineering? Many accounts of deaths and injuries that could have been prevented by simply tying a knot in the ends of the rope (both rapping and lowering off). I don't recall ever reading the same about freeing a stuck rope.
  20. That's nice, but this is what will get you those Yos speed records you've been coveting http://www.atlasdevices.com/
  21. 5-6' drops you say? Forget the blur, get the SC Nomad. I saw a lot of rippers on those when I was in Moab last spring. I think you can build one up at right around 30 pounds. Lose 2 off your belly and it'll be just as good as 28'r.
  22. Trip: Mt Stuart - Cascadian Couloir Date: 3/25/2007 Trip Report: Recent weather patterns have been delivering snow during the week and copious "gifts" of Hawaiin moisture on the weekends. Last Saturday was no exception. I've recently been relegated to weekend warior status, so suffice it to say I was more than a little perturbed that our planned climb/ski of Stuart on Sunday might have to be aborted. The forecast, however, offered a glimmer of hope. Warm rain was supposed to taper off late Saturday night, with a potential 1-3" of freshies to be deposited on East slopes by the waning edge of the front. I've been burned by that kind of forecast many times before, but the key to being a succesful mountaineer is a short memory coupled with a strong ability to suspend disbelief. And sometimes, you just gotta resort to praying for benevolence from the weather gods. Thankfully, this time it all worked out. We awoke to starry skies at the Teanaway Road snow park, which greatly enhanced our cautious optimism. As we skinned up Long's Pass, we discovered dust on crust that grew progressively deeper as we gained altitude. The ski down the N side confirmed the diagnosis of powder. By the time we began our climb up the S shoulder of Stewie, broken clouds had given way to bluebird skies. We skinned most of route in pow and wind buff conditions, switching occassionally to crampons and axe, where it seemed more efficient. We skied from the false summit. (Didn't make the summit traverse this time, due priimarily to time constraints.) Lower descent was via the Cascadian. Mostly pow, some wind buff and minimal crust. All in all, a brilliant outing. More of Kendall S's photos can be found here: BTW - If anyone's interested (Skykilo, et al?), Ulrich's appears to be in fine shape right now. Gear Notes: Snomos for the road approach. Harscheisen for the skinning. Pons and axes for the false summit headwall and the summit traverse, if you are so inclined. Approach Notes: Snomo approach is mostly covered, with only a few 50 meter+ bare spots. The snow on the road was ultra slushy though, so I doubt it will be in shape much longer.
  23. Hey Gator, This quote from your most recent blog entry piqued my curiosity: As it turns out, climbers have been on the mountain too; a subtle revelation that is slowly leaking across the Puget Sound. It all started when a few local pilots noted larger teams on the Muir Snowfield and at Camp Muir while zooming by the peak?! Then there were rumors of guided clients, who made it to Ingraham Flats... (Seattle IS a small town you know). So the word is out, those who booked trips with a concessioned guide service for this spring, will be shuttled into the park like the visitors at the NPI in Longmire If the road is washed out, how are these parties getting up to Pardise? It kinda bums me out that those that pay guide services get be on the mountain while the rest of us suffer through the mud season. But, I guess that's just jealousy rearing its ugly head. BTW - Thanks for keeping us up to date.
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