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Good2Go

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Everything posted by Good2Go

  1. Nice TR on an obscure objective! I often look at the Sentinel while skiing the opposite side of that valley during the winter (e.g. around Paddy Go Easy). Thanks for posting.
  2. Thanks for the report. I was thinking of skiing the route this weekend. How was the snow looking above the corridor? Nice and smooth or sastrugi-ed out?
  3. I bought the ATC Guide when it first came out (and still use it) specifically because it was tested and approved for use in rapping in either orientation (e.g., high friction side or low friction side to brake hand). Are you rapping with the rope coming off the high friction side? I hated the way the old Reverso rapped in that orientation. Guide is way faster/smoother when filpped.
  4. I don't have a lifetime of engineering under my belt, but I saw the "new" ledge yesterday and there were some obviously new chips at the edge, which appeared to me to be the product of an impact. I'm also a believer that the most likely cause should be entirely ruled out before latching on to the fanciful.
  5. Did you clip that bolt? Seems like it's in the perfect spot now. Too bad its totally untrustworthy.
  6. Hey Dan, I was one of the skiers you ran into on the summit on Sunday. The reason we were so stoked is that we were skiing Ulrich's in perfect corn. Was great all the way to the creek. From the sounds of it, you should check out the S side. Here's the pic I took of you coming up to the summit.
  7. Sorry to hear about your whippets. Doubt a sledder would take them. Were you parked in the actual snopark lot or along the road? BTW - Do you drive an older Japanese pickup w/a "Free Tibet" sticker? I see that truck up there all the time, but never its owner. Guessing it's a skier.
  8. It was only a recommendation, and I only contributed it in response to Sherri's post related to the same topic. What I spec'd is exactly what I use for the pitch, which I've climbed about 5 times in the past two years. What's your beef Choadman, too much gear or too little?
  9. Not to be a beta sprayer, but I'd recommend 4 #2s and 1 #3 for the onsite attempt.
  10. The chimney is really secure at the bottom and there's a fixed cam right where you need it. Go get it!
  11. That book is notoriously incorrect about a lot of things, including grades. I'm sure others will chime in if they disagree, but consensus is that HotC is 10a. Not trying to diminish your accomplishment btw. Was a very challenging climb for me when I was first working it. Nice send. Now, go get on Rattletale and Sagittarius and report back when you've fired em.
  12. The issue was that none of the routes you mentioned are above 10a. Personally, I liked the pics and stoke, so thanks for posting.
  13. Damnation on Castle Rock. Little bit of everything and no lines, ever.
  14. I think you will be inundated by sledders. The Easton is swarming with them until spring. Why not do a different route? Then again, maybe you can get a tow in to the railroad grade. Bring a 6 pack of coors lite to use as bait.
  15. You can use the tibloc instead of the ascender, but not as a pulley. Best setup (for me) is a Ropeman as your primary ratcheting pulley (off the anchor) and then two tiblocs for (instead of?) the ascenders. Many folks prefer prusiks instead of the tiblocs, but I don't mind carrying the tiblocs all the time and I find they are quicker on the setup. They'll also work well for ascending the rope if you are the one who falls in, especially on a thin rope (may thrash your rope though, even if you're careful).
  16. I dunno, Moniak sounds about right given her reputation for crushing.
  17. My pet peeve is those Baby on Board stickers. What the fuck are they trying to tell us, be more careful because they've got a baby? I'd prefer that you tough guys go out and chop all of those rather than IB, but whatever trips your trigger.
  18. Nope, it's still waiting for you and your chisel. I recommend that you start from the top down. Should only take about a year of weekends. And, please let us all know when you've finished so that we can go climb the route in its original pristine condition and re-capture that lost sense of adventure. TIA!
  19. From last wknd: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=14599.0 It warmed up and rained a bit since then, but there are lots of spots on the road that are protected from sun/rain by trees and they take way longer to melt out. Doubt you'll get too far up the road by car. I may be headed out that way on my sled tomorrow. If so I'll update.
  20. IMO the real deterrent to litigation in a written waiver is the indemnification provision (i.e., the provision in the waiver requiring the client to indemnify the guide for any claims, including negligence, related to their services). Courts can elect to negate such provisions for various reasons (e.g., gross negligence, public policy, etc.), but in practice they generally won't (at least in WA). If properly drafted, the indemnity provision will require the client to pay the guide's costs of defending any lawsuit related to the guide's services from the outset (including the cost of determining whether the indemnity provision is enforceable), which makes the case far less attractive to the ambulance chasers. Your post implied that waivers don't work to prevent claims, which isn't the case in WA (at least claims alleging negligence where the waiver includes an adequate indemnity provision).
  21. I climbed that route last year for the first time with a buddy who'd done it many times before. I drew the lead up to the spot that you described. Partner told me to belay at the block with the slings. I never saw any block or slings so I just kept going up. Heard him yelling, so I built an anchor at a stance and brought him up. Partner was totally freaked out that a major belay spot had fallen off. Seems that a bus-sized block had fallen off sometime in the previous winter or spring. Found remnants of the block on the hike out (taking goat trail down from base of Orbit area).
  22. I am a sledder and I can out climb and out ski you any day. Happy to prove it whenever you're ready Fatty.
  23. How about a little more info on the routes you climbed (e.g., grades, location, pictures, etc.). Looking to get on something other than the trade routes up there.
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