Maxtrax
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Posts posted by Maxtrax
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I need a suggestion for a video that I can access online where they discuss how rapidly the weather changes while you're in the mountains.
My science class is combined with our winter program for the next couple of weeks, so we're covering various backcountry safety topics. I want to introduce them to the idea that being prepared for changing conditions is important (and the science bit will be *why* those changing conditions occur).
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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Skis sold, bindings available for $150, everything else still available, will consider reasonable offers.
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Located in Seattle/Magnuson Park area and would prefer cash/local pickup but will ship at buyer's expense and split paypal fee.
Black Diamond Justice 175cm (138-111-121) with O1s (reg/midstiff) $350 (skis alone $220)
Both skis have a couple of repaired core shots and general dings from ~3 seasons on them and one ski has a slight edge compression underfoot. I have never noticed any issues from this (they are powder skis after all!) The bindings are a couple years older than the skis but still in great condition, I put new cartridges in them the beginning of last year.
La Sportiva Spantiks size 43 $450
Practically new, worn for less than one full day, a couple scuffs on the lace dial but other than that no discernable wear. Missing the top insole (not the foil/insulating one though).
Arc’teryx Stinger Jacket men’s small (runs big) $280
3 years old but only skied in 12-15 days and worn otherwise for another 10 days. Small scuffs on left chest and right shoulder, other than that it might as well be new. Fits more like a medium than a small, should be fine for anyone 5’5”-5’9” and 140-180lb depending on layering. Fully seam-taped Gore Pro Shell, made in Canada. Retailed for $575
Patagonia Alpine Wind Jacket size medium $45
Basically a Marmot Dri-Clime except that it fits way better. 2 ½ years old, worn once. Weighs 11.5oz.
Big Agnes Seedhouse SL1 tent $125
Superlight double wall solo tent. A couple tears which have been repaired in the mesh; floor and fly are undamaged, shock cord in poles is still in good condition. This tent is around 7 years old now but hasn't been used much since 2009 and still has all the guylines attached and a handful of stakes.
Petzl Eperons - heel spurs for Darts or Darttwins $45
Used once, sat in a gear bin ever since. Have the sidelock binding
Salomon generic lace-up snowboarding boots 26.5 mondo $50
~6 years old, used for one season. Great backup or loaner pair, but I have 2 other pairs that I loan out more often.
Pictures available upon request. If any of y'all are divers too, I have some scuba gear for sale over on NW dive club as well. PM me or email mkawaky at g mail dot com.
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I know it still feels like summer out there, but I need to move out some winter gear to make more room in the gear closet. All items are located in Seattle near Magnuson Park and I can easily meet anywhere between the Montlake Cut and 145th. I will also ship at buyer’s expense but please add 3% for paypal. All photos are located here: http://imgur.com/a/GIWW3
Black Diamond Justice 175cm (138-111-121) with O1s (reg/midstiff) $450 (skis alone $300)
I bought the skis new near the end of the 09/10 ski season, in the 2 ½ seasons since then they have around 40 days on them, even split between touring and resort. Mounted once for the current O1s for a 308mm BSL at the BD recommended point (around chord center +1.5cm IIRC). The O1s are from either 06 or 07 and have closer to 100 days on them but I put brand new cartridges in them at the beginning of last season – only 10 or 11 days on them. As you can see from the photos there is one small spot of edge/base damage underfoot on the outside edge of the right ski. The edge is compressed ~1/16” for ~2”, the base was repaired with epoxy/Ptex but I never bothered to have the edge section cut out/replaced because I have never noticed it while skiing (happened my second day on them). The tails also have the typical topsheet chipping which was repaired with urethane epoxy. I also have a set of good condition trimmed-to-fit GlideLite Nylon STS skins that I will throw in for an extra $100. I am not interested in selling the bindings or skins separately unless the skis sell first.
La Sportiva Spantiks size 43 $450
Practically new, worn for less than one full day, a couple scuffs on the lace dial but other than that no discernable wear. Missing the top insole (not the foil/insulating one though).
Arc’teryx Stinger Jacket men’s small $280
3 years old but only skied in 12-15 days and worn otherwise for another 10 days. Small scuffs on left chest and right shoulder, other than that it might as well be new. Fits more like a medium than a small, should be fine for anyone 5’5”-5’9” and 140-175lb depending on layering. Fully seam-taped Gore Pro Shell, made in Canada. Retailed for $575
Patagonia Alpine Wind Jacket size medium $45
Basically a Marmot Dri-Clime except that it doesn’t fit like a burlap sack. 2 ½ years old, worn once. Weighs 11.5oz.
Big Agnes Seedhouse SL1 tent $125
Superlight double wall solo tent. A couple tears which have been repaired in the mesh; floor and fly are undamaged, shock cord in poles is still in good condition. This tent is around 7 years old now but hasn't been used much since 2009 and still has all the guylines attached and a handful of stakes.
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Adding another vote for the Cilogear 30L. I used to use the 45 all the time but managed to stuff a 4 day/3 night Rainier trip into my 30L a few years ago and the 45 hasn't left the gear bin since. For any trip that I can't make the 30L work for I bump up to either my Golite Gust (~68L, 1lb 5oz empty) or Cilo 60L, depending on how heavy the load is.
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Update - can't edit the OP anymore but the Westcomb jacket, Alti mitts and Dry bag all sold. Everything else still available.
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GORE Soft Shell refers to the handling characteristics of the fabric and is completely waterproof.
softshell is a category of fabrics/garments that balance wind and water resistance with breathability and comfort in terms of stretch and feel.
Some are more water resistant (e.g. Windstopper or Schoeller WB-400) than others (e.g. Polartec Powershield or Tweave Durastretch) but if it is waterproof (e.g. MH Conduit) then it is a hardshell
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Bump - prices dropped.
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I'd say softshell, but only if they're totally waterproof. MH Conduit keeps me dry.
Softshell by definition is not waterproof.
Personally I ice climb in a pair of Arc'teryx Gamma LT or Gamma AR pants if the temps are below 28-30 F and have an old pair of full zip Gore XCR pants to throw over them if temps get close to/above freezing. It gives me the best balance of comfort and weather protection. I don't see the need for a waterproof pant when any precip is frozen. That said I wish I had snapped up a pair of the Rab Fusion pants when I had a chance to...my butt and knees are really the only areas that have ever wetted out on my soft shell pants.
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Skins sold, Trangos still available.
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Headlamp sold, Trangos pending. Feel free to send reasonable offers on anything else.
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Time for a little closet/basement cleaning.
Arc'teryx Stinger Jacket, Size S (fits like a M, I am 5'9" 175) $320 $280
2 years old, a few scuffs on the chest and right shoulder from a close encounter with a tree trunk, other than that like new condition, only skied in it 12-15 days and worn another ~10 days around town. Full taped GORE pro-shell, made in Canada. Retailed for $575.
Westcomb Mirage SE Jacket, Size M $225 $190
4 years old but was lost in the bottom of a gear bin for 2 years, approximately 50-60 days of use on this, it shows some wear at the cuffs and collar and on the PU coating of the main zipper (still totally waterproof) but other than that is in great condition. This is the lighter weight version of the Mirage with no powder skirt. Full seam-taped eVent, made in Canada. The regular Mirage retails for $450, not sure what the SE went for.
Patagonia Alpine Wind Jacket, Size M $55 $45
1.5 years old, worn once. This is practically identical to the Marmot DriClime but IMO fits much better. Packs into its own pocket/weighs 11.5 oz. Retails for $100.
G3 Alpinist Skins, 130mm x 162-172cm $100 sold
Got these for a trip in April '10 that never happened. Brand new/never trimmed/plastic still on. Retail for $165.
La Sportiva Spantik boots, size 43 $525 $450
Effectively brand new, I have only worn these for about 2 hours at the Bozeman ice fest last year, it was way too warm for them and they are a half size too big. No signs of wear at all except for the lace dial/catch. Retail for $700, but you already knew that.
La Sportiva Trango S boots, Size 42.5 $50 $45
Pre Gore-Tex, good summer alpine boots. Still some life left in the soles.
OR Alti Mitts, Men's L $130 $110
Outers have been used 10-12 days, inners have never been used but show some wear from kicking around in gear bins for 2 years. Retail for $199.
OR Stormtracker Gloves, Men's L $35 $30
Around 30 days on these but they only show a little wear on the palms, hardly anything on the fingers/backs. Retail for $69.
Insulated Gore-Tex ski glove, Men's L $50 $40
Made by Grandoe, pretty warm ski glove but not the best dexterity. I've used these down to 5 F and my hands were still toasty.
Petzl Eperons (Dart/Dartwin) Heel Spurs with Sidelock binding $60 $45
Bought these used once, I have never used them. Retail for $100.
Wild Country Tech Friends 0.5, 1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 2.5 and 3, $30 $28 each or $165 $155 for all 6
These are all either 5 or 6 years old but were only climbed on from 2006-2008, webbing and trigger wires are still in great shape, just lots of cosmetic wear on the lobes. Retail for $50-60 each.
Wild Country Zeros Z5 and Z6 $35 $33 each or $65 $60 for both
Same age/climbing history as the Tech Friends but the trigger wires show more wear and will most likely need to be replaced in another 1-1.5 season. The Z6 is the long-stem variant. Retail for $65-75 each.
SealLine Drybag with adjustable backpack shoulder straps $35 $30
As far as I can tell this is an older version of the Boundary Pack, approximately 35 liters volume. Quite a few scuffs/etc. but structurally sound.
Mammut TX-1 Headlamp $40 sold
Super bright headlamp, great for routefinding, I just have 2 of them. Retails for $80.
Big Agnes Seedhouse SL1 $140 $125
Superlight double wall solo tent. A couple tears which have been repaired in the mesh, floor and fly are undamaged, shock cord in poles is still in good condition. This tent is around 6-7 years old now but hasn't been used much since 2009 and still has all the guylines attached and a handful of stakes. Retails for $250.
Salomon Snowboard Boots, Size 8.5-9 (26.5 Mondo) $60 $50
Used one season. Retailed for around $180-190.
I am in Seattle and would prefer local pickup/cash. I can also do Paypal and will cover the fee if you buy more than one item, otherwise please add 3%. Will ship at buyer's expense.
Reasonable offers will be entertained and I am also looking for a pair of new-ish TLT Speed bindings, an Oakley half shield for a hockey helmet and a Suunto Vyper/Vyper Air or comparable 2-gas Nitrox dive computer if you happen to have one for trade.
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I have never felt the need for adding an autoblock to a munter, it just seems to add unnecessary friction and complication to the knot. The garda hitch/alpine clutch might be better for your application.
If you need to go hands free while belaying with a munter you can quickly tie it off with a mule knot, < 10 seconds with practice.
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As mentioned above if there is minimal/no crevasse hazard just solo. Unless there is good rock pro along the sides of a couloir or ice for placing screws I feel much more comfortable soloing rather than having the false security of a rope on marginal pro.
This can lead to some sticky situations, e.g. after soloing through an area with no/very little pro if one climber is injured and unable to solo back down through that area self rescue can be made more difficult as your party is forced to rely on janky pro for a belayed downlclimb/lower or fail upwards.
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I've flown across the country with my rack in my carry on 2 or 3 times each on Southwest and Delta, never had any hassle but have always taken my nut tool out. Never tried flying with ice screws in the carry on though... doubt that would be kosher.
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Nice work guys, way to keep at it. Fully agree about the shitiness of the Cascadian. I climbed Stuart in '07 and '08 and the memory of the descent is still obnoxious enough that I'm not read to go back for more, as awesome as the North Ridge is.
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So the AAC wants non-members to donate trip reports which it, in turn, will not allow same contributors to purchase in book form?
Whoever came up with this idea is not very sharp. As long as this policy is in place I won't be sending anything in.
Contributors and participating clubs and libraries also will receive the 2011 AAJ in hard copy. Members can expect their copies of the 2011 AAJ and 2011 Accidents in North American Mountaineering to arrive in late August this year.Sorry you can't buy a copy but I guess they will give you one...
Personally, I am stoked to have re-upped this year after a 4 year lapse and I got to renew my Alpinist subscription at a discount at the SBP kickoff event.
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Check out King of the Ruins at Vantage and any other .12 at World Wall. Bust the Move would probably be the easiest one other than Rainy Day.
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I am by no means an expert but tricks that have worked well for me are pushing outwards and making small non dynamic movements rather than pulling directly downwards and tunneling/groveling as much as possible to try and find more "solid" rime underneath the ephemeral outer coating.
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As Dane pointed out your picks are actually .2mm narrower than your friends so theoretically you should actually be displacing less ice and causing less fracturing/dinner plating. So I think this case might just boil down to swing. I have found that Petzl tools force me to execute more of a wrist flick to get good sticks whereas with BD tools I can get good sticks swinging almost entirely from the shoulder and I have to force myself to make more of a wrist flick. Regardless of tool brand or pick model I fracture less ice the less I swing from the shoulder and the more I seat the tool with a quick wrist flick.
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Performance is going to be similar to any other hybrid leather/synthetic boot that takes a new-matic style crampon. If you intend to do more steep climbing then you might consider the Mamook instead. Most folks I've talked to who have worn either boot described the fit as typical Raichle and sized them .5 to 1 size above street shoe.
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I think its time for a repeat
Why don't you go do so? I know Ian and he is anything but someone who artificially inflates grades. If he says it's a grade IV, I trust him that it's a grade IV.
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The crux of the matter is UV damage - dyneema/spectra material ages faster than nylon due to sunlight. For a recreational user like yourself, consider replacing dyneema slings every three years, and nylon slings every five.
Incorrect, UHMWPE (Dyneema/Spectra are trade names) has significantly higher UV resistance and abrasion/wear resistance than Nylon. Personally I replace my Dyneema slings when they start fuzzing out/fraying (typically every 4-5 years) or if they get a permanent kink in them similar to a coreshot in a rope.
Regarding long-term storage with no use, nylon naturally degrades over time, enough that most manufacturers recommend retiring any lead ropes 10 years after date of manufacture or 5 years after purchase, whichever comes first. UHMWPE also degrades over time but I believe at a much slower rate, though I can't find my reference right now without being on a school computer.
Edited to clarify/add:
The above refers strictly to a direct comparison of the fibers/yarns. Dyneema is often quoted as being 10x as strong as steel but the second half of the statement is ommited. Dyneema has a 10x higher tensile strength than steel when you compare equal masses of the materials - not if you compare a skinny climbing sling to a large girder or I-beam. The same principle applies when comparing climbing slings.
Functionally, Dyneema slings may appear to have lower wear resistance than nylon and/or age quicker than nylon slings. This is simply because there is significantly less material in the Dyneema slings than the nylon slings currently on the market. Typically when people compare climbing slings they are looking at 1" (25.4mm) or 11/16" (17.5mm) nylon vs. 8mm or 10mm Dyneema. That is comparing apples to oranges (or at least pears). For a better comparison, one should really consider 1/2" (12.7mm) nylon vs. 8mm Dyneema as both have roughly equivalent masses per length (a shoulder length sling out of either has a mass of 18gm +/- 1gm).
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Also, for getting your stuff back to the lower 48 you can often get cheap freight with Lynden on their back-carries because they're coming south mostly (or entirely) empty anyways.
La Sportiva Spantik 43, Arc'teryx Gamma softshells, Iser ski pants medium
in The Yard Sale
Posted · Edited by Maxtrax
Epsilon sold, fixed title
Everything is used except the Spantiks (bought them for a Denali trip that never happened... just sat in my garage ever since). Prices for face to face pickup between Northgate and Lynnwood or will ship at actual cost at buyer's expense. For shipped orders I can take Paypal or Venmo, please cover fees if you use PP G&S. Any questions, need added pics, think I'm way out of line on my prices, or whatever, just ask.
La Sportiva Spantik size 43 - new/unused - $400
Arc'teryx Gamma AR pants size M - minor scuffs on one cuff, two small crampon strikes on other cuff, great condition otherwise - $90
Arc'teryx Gamma SK pants size M or 34 Reg - size is worn off, can't recall if these were numeric or letter sizing but they were either M or 34, fair amount of scuffs on scuff guards, one cut outside of them, include suspenders - $90
Arc'teryx Epsilon AR jacket size M - end anchor of one side of the hem drawstring tore out but it is still functional - $75soldArc'teryx Iser pants 34 Reg - Used once, almost no wear, a couple minor scuffs on the scuff guards and one small (a couple mm) scuff outside of scuff guard, Goretex Softshell material (fully waterproof) essentially the same as a Sabre pant, just with different pockets and not as baggy in the lower leg - $275