Maxtrax

Updated/pictures added

Wild Country #3.5 Technical Friend (same size as BD #3) $30 bought this last summer, placed it one time - it's my third piece in this size Wild Country Z5 Zero Friend (same size as blue TCU) $35 Wild Country Z6 Zero Friend (between yellow and orange TCUs) $35 I've had both of these for a season and a half but they have seen minimal use because finger cracks effin' hurt. $90 takes all 3 cams Petzl Charlet Snowwalker 65cm ice axe, good all around mountaineering axe, I've had it for ~2 years and kept it sharp and rust free SOLD 5.10 Anasazi velcro's with C4 rubber size 9.5 US/42.5 Euro. $40 Misc. biners - all are in good shape, I just have too many of them 2 BD quicksilver lockers - SOLD 2 Petzl Attache lockers - $8 each 1 BD mini pearabiner locker - $8 8 Wild Country Wild Wire biners - $6 each REI E1 Elements waterproof/breathable jacket, has large pit zips and two chest pockets on each side (4 total), men's size medium $50 I prefer to deal locally in the greater Seattle area but I can ship UPS ground if needed. Also, I will consider reasonable offers and trades. I'm interested in a #4 C4 camalot, a medium Golite Gust pack, size 8.5 or 9 Acopa JB shoes and Grivel 360 ice screws.

I would go for a 20 degree and a 50 degree overhand, that seems to work really well. Skip vertical. If you want techy routes do 'em on the 20 deg. overhang, for core strength the 50 deg will whip your ass into shape.

I personally really like Mammut ropes and even though they are a bit more up front they've always lasted me the longest and I think they have the nicest hand - except maybe for some Beals. The Mammut supersafe 10mm or 10.2mm (can't remember) would be a great durable workhorse rope.

Index was chilly but sunny and fairly dry yesterday. Godzilla was fine, Gorilla My Dreams was pretty soppin wet but climable. It was supposed to start raining last night and continue for like 3 or 4 days so I wouldn't count on it for this weekend.

PM sent

pm sent re: remaining screws

I take it you haven't had any issue with skinny cords in the ghost then? I picked one up a couple months ago but I haven't used it on anything skinnier than 9.8 yet. It sketches me not having any sort of increased friction grooves (a-la atc-guide) for my 8mm doubles or my buddy's ice floss. I do like the fact that it's half the weight of my guide though.

Might wanna check your math there - 30L is around 1850 cubic inches and 40L is around 2450 cubic inches. I find that for day/in a push style trips 30-38L and for light multiday trips 35-50 or 55L is good. For reference the CCW Chernobyl is 3,000 cubic in/49L and the Wild Things Ice Sack is 3,200 cubic in/52L.

For 3-season climbing La sportiva Trango, Scarpa Charmoz or Triolet, Garmont Tower, Kayland Apex Rock. My favorite of those is the Triolet but go with whatever fits your foot the best. For a boot that is lighter than your plastics but warm enough for 4-season or ice climbing use check out the La Sportiva Nepal Evo, possibly one of the all-time best single leather boots, including all its previous iterations.

I would second the Cilogear pack as a climbing pack. I've carried the 45L and plan to get a 60L. I wouldn't necessarily go for a Cilo if you're going to use it for skiing much. It can be made to work but isn't as good for skis/avy gear as a purpose built ski pack like the Arcteryx Khamski or BD Coverts and Anarchists. Also check out the BD Jackal and Wild Things ice sack or rice sack.

I measure a hair over 41.5 (european) on a Brannock. I wear 41.5 approach/running shoes from La Sportiva - Exum Ridge, Barr Trail and Sonic TR. For boots I wear a 42 or 42.5 in the Trango S Evo, and a 42 in the Trango Extreme or Nepal Evo. I currently have a pair of Eigers (fit similar to a Makalu) in a 41.5 but with thicker socks or liner socks I wish I'd gotten 42's. FYI I usually wear one light hiking weight Teko sock and on the Trango models I can wear a 41.5 for length but I need the 42s for width, my foot is E to EE. I don't know if or how the relative sizing changes with the bigger boots like the Spantik or Oly Mons but I met one guy who wears a US 12 street shoe and got 46 Spantiks. Give AMH or possibly Mountain Gear a call and see what they say.

You always want to have a matched pair of ropes when using twin style (both ropes running through each piece of gear), and although I couldn't tell you exactly why you would want to do the same with halves, I personally wouldn't climb on mismatched ropes. The reason for having matched rope with twins is that if they are mismatched they will elongate at a different rate and that differential will cause friction between the two ropes where they run together at placements and can cause abrasion to the sheath, or in extreme examples burning/melting and significant damage to the integrity of the ropes. With halves if they are mismatched one rope will stretch less, thus putting more of the force from a fall on that rope and whatever piece of gear it is attached too and thus weakening the entire system, so although you could probably get away with it, I still wouldn't climb on mismatched half ropes. It's a little late so I might not be 100% clear, so ask any more questions you might have, I'll try to answer. Also, those Metolious 7.8mm half/twin ropes look awesome and I definitely want to try them out, but right now my favorite skinny cords are the Mammut Phoenix 8mm x 60m half ropes.

I have a Pounder Plus bag and have really liked it for the 3+ years I've had it, the Pounder seems like a pretty sweet bag too. The only complaint I have is that primaloft doesn't breath that well and I wake up pretty sweaty sometimes, compared to a down bag or even some polarguard bags. I would also recommend the FF Vireo half bag (yes I know it's down, but it's awesome and <1lb) or the Wild Things primaloft half bag, if you were planning on using it as part of a layering system.

The link cams have been spoken for, I'll let you know if the deal falls through.

I have the following things for sale, reasonable offers will be considered. I live in the Seattle area and prefer local buyers if possible but I will pay shipping if you buy $30 or more of my stuff. Also I will be at the Ice Fest in Portland on Saturday the 29th. Cash or check only please. The best way to contact me is email (mkawaky at gmail dot com) or cell (360-301-6089), if I don't answer my phone it means I'm at work or climbing. Leave a message and I will call you back. Solid gate carabiners - $4 each. bent gates: 4 older BD quicksilver straight gates: 1 wild country, 1 older metolius, 1 older BD quicksilver, 1 newer BD quicksilver, 1 older trango, 1 old austri alpin keygate/smooth nose, 1 climbhigh oval Wire gate carabiners - $6 each. 2 red Wild country Wild wires and 6 silver Wild country Wild wires, all are 1 year old and pretty lightly used Locking carabiners 2 BD quicksilvers - $5 each 2 Petzl attaches - $8 each 1 BD mini pearabiner - $8 Cams Omega Pacific Link cams #1 and #2 - $45 each SOLD Miscellaneous 2 Wild country 10mm x 20cm dyneema runners - $4 each 2 Wild country and 2 DMM 10mm x 10cm dyneema runners with rubber quickdraw keepers - $4 each 2 Petzl 10cm dogbones - $4 each 1 BD 10cm dogbone - $4 1 BD ATC - $7 1 pair 5.10 Anasazi velcro shoes size US 9 1/2 or Euro 42.5, Stealth C4 rubber, still in good shape - $40 1 Primus Yukon canister stove - $12 1 pair OR/wild roses Gore Tex XCR pants with full side zips and pockets, size women's large, fit me well (31x32/men's medium) - $40 1 Gregory Palisade pack size medium, good condition used les than 25 days - $175 1 GNU Carbon Select 147 snowboard w/ Bent Metal BMX bindings and Burton 147cm case. Board is about 4 years old but still in pretty good condition I only rode it for 2 1/2 seasons. Base and edges could use a little work - $300 - for another $50 I'll clean up the base and edges 1 pair Salomon snowboard boots size US 8 1/2 or Mondo 26.5, great condition only rode them 8 days - $75 Photos

Double post - mods please delete.

If you're looking at the mini-pearabiner I would get the Vaporlock instead (also BD), it's lighter and to me it feels like it lowers/rappels smoother. I haven't tried doing a munter with anything over 9.8mm but I imagine it would be quite a jam in either carabiner. The DMM sentinel is a nice carabiner too, but I personally can NOT stand DMM screwgates and much prefer the action on BD and Petzl lockers. Also, those superfly lockers are the bomb, I have 1 and I'll probably replace the rest of my old rusty quicksilver lockers before long.

I've had a Pounder Plus for 3 years now and probably spent ~100 nights in it. Great bag - really compressible for synthetic, decent weight and warm for the temperature rating. I don't wear anything more than my boxers in it unless the temperature inside the tent is under 30 degrees.

Can you expand on that? I haven't had a chance to play with them except in shops but looking just at specs for range/weight it seems that they don't offer much that I can't get from C4s or my link cams.

Wtf... no text. Anyways, PM sent.

I can't remember if Dynex is chemically the same as Dyneema/Spectra or not, but it's probably similar. Dyneema and Spectra are chemically exactly the same (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene/UHMWPE) the only difference is in the production process for creating the actual yarn. Dyneema was pioneered and patented by DSM in the Netherlands and Spectra was pioneered and patented by Allied Signal in the good ol' US of A. This is why you typically find Dyneema in Mammut slings (European company) and Spectra in Yates slings (American company). However last summer/fall there was talk of DSM licensing or buying a facility in the US to make Dyneema in order to keep up with the increased worldwide demand (primarily military). Like I said I can't remember if Dynex is just another new production process or not, but I think it's actually chemically a bit different although still a high molecular weight yarn. These types of high molecular weight yarns they are very impermeable to pretty much anything, including dyes. So any colored yarns in a Dyneema/Spectra sling are actually dyed nylon fibers woven in. This is also why the Wild Things Spectra Icesac is white and on Dyneema gridstop nylon the grids are always white. I might not have explained this super clearly as it's late but if they're any questions I'll try my best to answer. If it's slow at work tomorrow I might take a look through all the files from the research I did for my internship last summer and see what other technical info I have. As for durability/when to replace slings - I find the construction method of my Mammut slings with one end sewn inside of the other to be much better than my Wild Country slings which are just one end bar-tacked on top of the other in the standard fashion. I haven't heard any numbers in terms of years on when to retire them but I treat them just like my rope - examine periodically for obvious signs of wear and if I don't like what I see I replace them - $15 for a couple slings is a hell of a lot cheaper than a trip to the ER.

A couple guys from the UW climbing club took a go at Bonanza a bit over a week ago but bailed off - it looks pretty choss-oriffic. http://uw.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3629 for their TR. Not a lot of info regarding conditions, but some pictures and you could contact them for beta.

Hey, do you live anywhere in the greater Seattle area? I would love to get a chance to check out your pack, I'm just about ready to bite the bullet and buy a 60L worksack but i just can't quite shell out the money without having at least seen one first. Thanks

Can somebody tell me where this Garth Pillar route is?