rleary

On Friday (July 3), a friend and I were climbing the north face of the north peak of mount index. In the brush gullies just below the large bowl (~6 pitches up), he fell while leading a traverse pitch, gashing his leg below the knee on a protruding rock. The gash was roughly 4 inches long and down to the bone. Both of us are wilderness first responders and have rescue training. Since he was unable to use his leg, and we were unable to completely stop the bleeding, we initiated a rescue via cell phone and were evacuated by helicopter. He is fine, but recovery will be several months. Although minor in comparison to our safety, the other casualty of this trip was my pack which was accidentally dropped as it was being hoisted into the helicopter. I don't know if it fell to the bottom of the route or is hung up on brush somewhere on the face. It is a black and blue Cold Cold World pack and contains my rack, camera, and several jackets. While finding it seems unlikely, I can offer $100 to anyone who finds it and can return it to me or to the base of the route for me to pick up. cheers, Ryan Leary leary2001@hotmail.com

On Friday (July 3), a friend and I were climbing the north face of the north peak of mount index. In the brush gullies just below the large bowl (~6 pitches up), he fell while leading a traverse pitch, gashing his leg below the knee on a protruding rock. The gash was roughly 4 inches long and down to the bone. Both of us are wilderness first responders and have rescue training. Since he was unable to use his leg, and we were unable to completely stop the bleeding, we initiated a rescue via cell phone and were evacuated by helicopter. He is fine, but recovery will be several months. Although minor in comparison to our safety, the other casualty of this trip was my pack which was accidentally dropped as it was being hoisted into the helicopter. I don't know if it fell to the bottom of the route or is hung up on brush somewhere on the face. It is a black and blue Cold Cold World pack and contains my rack, camera, and several jackets. While finding it seems unlikely, I can offer $100 to anyone who finds it and can return it to me or to the base of the route for me to pick up. cheers, Ryan Leary leary2001@hotmail.com

Opinions? the friends are cheaper and both seem comparable.

what exactly causes acid damage?

Some friends and I are planning on climbing the south spur this weekend. any info on snow conditions and avi conditions would be much appreciated.--Thanks

I am hoping to climb Adams South Spur the weekend of the 20th and Hood southside sometime the week following that. Does anyone have some knowledge of how serious the avalanche danger is on these routes both in normal contitions and now with the extra snow? I have taken avi 1, and I have been checking out the NWAC website and the forest service climbing reports, but some more specific info would be much appreciated. -- thanks