dom
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Posts posted by dom
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How long have they known about the nesting falcons? And why haven't they posted warnings earlier?
I came across the nest a couple of weeks ago. It is located just above the top chains of The Overture an 11a on the Upper Right part of Deception Wall. This route barely gets any traffic despite its four star rating because of the difficult approach, and tricky moves at the start. Its not a big loss to have this route off limits for a couple of months.
However I don't think it is necessary to prohibit climbing at the whole of deception wall. Most other routes on the wall are far away enough to be out of sight of the nesting site. Except for the adjacent routes The Underture and Won't Get Fooled Again which start from the same ledge, you would get much closer to the nest by walking along the main Iron Horse Trail than by climbing any other route on Deception Wall.
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I'd like to add my thanks to Quarryographer, Rad, Lucky and everyone else who has put in the time and money to bolt new routes at 38. I had a great day at Deception Wall on Saturday, and look forward to going back to finish off the remaining routes I have left to do there.
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Are there any restrictions at Exit 38? On Saturday I climbed a route on Deception Wall, I think its called Overture (its 11a). I was at the chains and saw a bird (pretty sure it was a peregrine falcon) on a ledge about 15ft me. I got out of there pretty quick.
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Finally checked this place out yesterday. Its pretty sweet. Thanks Rad for all the work you've done here.
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How is it looking down at the Quarry Off? There is a light drizzle up here.
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Culture Shock and Rainy Day are both good 12's to start out on, they were my first 12's in the state. The best 12a in North Bend and perhaps the state has got to be Stihl Fingers up at Bobs area.
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Thanks Orion!
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thanks for the link RuMR, that was a really interesting post.
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Thanks for putting this new route up ricky and rusty! I havn't tried it yet, but it looks great. (I'm the guy that talked to you two when you were cleaning it a few weeks ago.) Does anyone know any other names or grades of the new routes at x38. I did the steep line across from the tunnel of love, I thought 11c/d, there is also a R-L bolted traverse there that looked fun. I also did the dirty bolted line just up from the block of doom, I thought about 10b, but wouldn't reccomend it. I did hurricane and it felt 10c to me, the mantle isn't obvious. I've also noticed a few more new routes/random bolts at Motherland and across from Squishy Bell. Anybody have any more info on these or any other new routes at x38?
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Fair enough. I'll have to schedule another time. Thanks for the quick reply.
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I'll be down there around 4.30 if its dry. Is it dry Off?
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Looking forward to it. I've got a ride. See you all tomorrow!
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I'd love to get down there next wednesday. Anybody driving down from Olympia?
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When the cam failed the wire stem was severed leaving the head of the cam still in the crack. You cant really place good gear in the crack now cause the head of the cam is still well stuck in there taking up the only good spot to place gear.
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Its gone cause Jimmy decked lowering off it, it was an accident waiting to happen, fixed gear is whack, someone should put a bolt in the roof so this route is climbable again.
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is it dry in tenino today Off?
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actualy on second thought, it'll probably be cooler there than in my apartment. I think I'll come down with my brushes and scrub some routes, dead low tide and that 10a on the far right need some traffic.
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I cleaned and chalked Critter Corner (the 5.9 crack on the far left) last night so it is a LOT nicer to climb now. Get on it and keep it clean everyone, its the best easy route at the quarry. I might not be there next wednesday, squamish is calling me.
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Hows the dampness at the quarry Off? Its not looking too good here in Olympia right now.
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Oh yea I forgot about Dreaming of a Life of Ease Pitch 2 (11c) just did this for the first time on friday. Its really cool exposed climbing, and not hard at all for 11c, it'd probably get 11a if it were straight off the deck.
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Little Si has some great 11's. Aborigine and Psycho-wussy (both 11b) are the most popular. But I would recommend Voodoo Guru (11c) really long with no hard moves stemming up a dihedral or Megatherion (11b) easy climbing to a tricky crux on cool rock.
dom
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Congrats to Jimmy on sending Legends last night! it was a great night, I counted 15 people out climbing, must be a new record.
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Yep Justin Sjong's wife took a huge wipper off of Chronic a couple of years ago after she backclipped, she knew she had backclipped so screamed while she was falling. It was pretty scary to watch, I thought a bolt had popped at first!
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I'll be there today 3-7.
Good Deep Water Solo in Banks Lake area?
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
I was just out there over the weekend. There's a few pretty fun low-commitment deep water solo's that are easily accessible. As mentioned above the Weekend Rock guide has the best beta.
I wrote a little summary here
http://climb8a.blogspot.com/2012/07/deep-water-soloing-at-banks-lake.html
dom