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96avs01

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Everything posted by 96avs01

  1. need avy gear advice

    Noticed this recent post on the Eastern Sierra Avy site. Interesting to note that 3 of the 4 blades that didn't fail/distort are the Voile T6. Maybe not just marketing. Also interesting to see the BCA redesigned their shovel blade to a more 'wrap-around' style similar to the Voile.
  2. Western Mountaineering Parka

    I have a WM Vapor that I purchased to replace a MH Phantom. I am much happier as the jacket is warmer and the Windstopper shell fabric has proven very durable in rock/vegetation abrasive environments (where the Phantom proved to be a liability after several large tears and subsequent repairs). My only gripe is that the Vapor only has two hand pockets, it would be nice if it had an interior 'Napoleon' pocket. The Vapor was also offered as a parka style for awhile, but the hood wasn't removable. One of my partners from the East Coast has the parka version and is quite satisfied. Believe only the jacket version is currently being produced. I would purchase Vapor again without hesitation, and I suspect it has the most durable shell fabric in the sub-1 lb. down jacket category.
  3. Denali gear advice?

    FWIW, spent an entire month in AK in June '06 for less than $1500 including airfare. Included West Butt ascent, backpacking in Denali SP, several nights hotel in Anchorage, rental car (after ascent), LOTS of post-climb beer, boat tour of Kenai Fjords.
  4. stretch element vs. others...

    Breathability is as good as Goretex XCR, haven't used eVent so can't compare to it. The jacket has both pit zips and venting Napoleon pockets so I haven't had a problem with ventilation. I use the SE for in- and out-of-bounds snowboarding, splitboarding and ice climbing.
  5. stretch element vs. others...

    Absolutely love mine! Have beaten the shit out of it for two seasons, and yet no snags/tears/wear spots. At purchase it was down to the SE and the Alpha SV. Alpha SV was heavier, and felt stiffer with less ventilation options, opted for the SE and never looked back. Have never experienced any issues with water repelency or ventilation/breathability.
  6. Titanium pitons

    I've heard that a lot. Interesting, never had any problems with them although I have always ordered by phone. Definitely something to think about in the future.
  7. Titanium pitons

    Available here from Mountain Tools.
  8. Denali Poster

    Check this out.
  9. Planning to hit Jeff and N Sister in a couple of weeks. Just wondering how things are shaping up (i.e. mountain/plowing conditions). All beta is greatly appreciated! TIA
  10. Pole Creek Access??

    If anyone heads in that direction (via bootpack, skis, split, hands-n-knees, whatever) please post the conditions. Have a friend coming from D.C. that really wants to hit N. Sister and ideally Jeff the first week of June.
  11. Tetons footwear

    Scarpa Triolet
  12. Shasta conditions

    Nice work Dan!!! N side of Shasta looks far worse than I had envisioned. Any chance you happened to get good look at the SE aspects?
  13. DMM Super Couloir harness

    Has anyone used a DMM Super Couloir harness? Really appreciate any first-hand feedback. TIA
  14. Scarpa Triolet GTX

    Love my Triolet, no complaints whatsoeva!!! Have really taken a beating and are still in great shape.
  15. vasque superalpinista and vasque m-possible

    I have used the Lhotse and the Super Alpinistas are definitely warmer, and would expect them to be warmer than the Summits. I have the Scarpa Triolet, which should be quite similar to the Freneys, and they are no where near as warm as the SAs. I haven't had a problem using the SAs with a vapor barrier for winter ascents and BC boardn in the Northern Sierra. Can't comment on the the Nepals, but the Nuptses should be even warmer than the SAs, but they are just a bit narrow for my foot type. My $0.02 You might also consider the AKU Spider. Although I haven't used them personally, I have heard good things but they may not have the warmth you seek.
  16. Vasque ice 9000--wide feet?

    Sounds like we have a similar foot type. I have been very happy with my 9000s. My only complaint is that they tend to be hard on laces, so be sure to carry a spare or some 2mm cord.
  17. source for equipment sled?

    Their hardware with Paris expedition sled from REI has treated me well!
  18. Vasque Radiator

    Hope not, I am completely satisfied with my 9000s. The BOA doesn't allow you to 'zone' lace your boots, thus stuck with one tension throughout forefoot and upper ankle. This really sucks IMHO.
  19. Scarpa Charmoz Boots

    Throwing my vote for the slightly heavier, but IMHO more durable Scarpa Triolet.
  20. Leather 4-season mid-range boots

    AKU Baltoro may be another option if your feet tend to run on the very warm end of the spectrum, and they are on sale if they meet your needs.
  21. Vasque Radiator

    Just in...BOA sucks for snowboard boots and likely every other application.
  22. vasque ice 9000

    Used them on Denali in June '06. They were so warm I could have left my overboots at home. They are the most comfortable double boot I have used. If my foot were a bit narrower I would opt for the LaSportiva Nuptse, but I definitely have a 'Vasque' foot type. Haven't used them ice climbing, but would expect them to perform adequately.
  23. Leather 4-season mid-range boots

    I have previously used the Lhotse and for me personally they are not warm enough to use as a winter boot. However, I tend to have cold toes so if you run warm they may suit your needs. I would opt for the K4S, they would be similar to the Vasque Super Alpinistas that I currently use for a winter boot. Not sure what size you need but they are currently on sale here.
  24. need avy gear advice

    The "T6" Voile XLM I had was a piece of shit. Maybe it was operator error.
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