Argus

Check your pm's

I haven't personally climbed there, but know some people that have. They tell me that it's pretty good. It sounds like they might be coming out with a guide based on the comments on Mountain Project. How do you randomly end up in the middle of the desert in order to drive past this place? Are the other photos from the Lake Mead area?

Rainbow Canyon?

Highly unrecommended. You take your life into your hands everytime you drive through that canyon. The good thing is all the traffic would be going the opposite direction. The bad news is that they're all coming directly at you. I've nearly died several times there.

Awesome tr. It's nice to see some different routes. It really amazes me that there are thousands of unclimbed lines there, yet everyone feels the need to climb the same 10 climbs.

I did the same thing as bonathon on a 6" rip in my ski pants. It worked awesome and held up all season.

Also, check out Mountain Project. The climbers in Scony are pretty active on this board: http://mountainproject.com/v/wisconsin/105708968

I tried to get up there a few weeks ago. The road was gated at the pass though.

I recieved the following e-mail from Jim Earl with the SMCC last week. Hello SW Montana Climbers, We have all been anxiously waiting for the results of our appeal to the Region 1 Forester concerning the Gallatin Travel Management Plan, and how it affects access to the ice in Hyalite Canyon. As reported in March 21st Bozeman Chronicle, all appeals were denied. Truth be told, this was not unexpected since rarely do the Regional decisions reverse the Supervisor despite the strength of any appeal. However, on March 14th the SMCC met again with the Gallatin Forest supervisors, recreation planner, and engineer to discuss the points of our appeal. Of all 112 appellants, which includes motorized users, green groups, and other recreation user groups, I think we were the only ones granted additional meetings with the Forest Service before the release of the Regional Forester’s decision. At this meeting the Forest Supervisor offered a 4-point proposal that we accepted (also covered in the Chronicle, March 15th): 1) The Gallatin Forest has agreed to institute a long-term priority to plow the Hyalite Road beyond the Blackmore Campground, at least to the Chisholm Campground (E. Fork Hyalite Road) area and possibly further. Doing so may require upgrades to the road at some point. 2) Work with ice climbers and other groups to determine "standards" for when it would be appropriate to gate the road. This does not mean just changing the date to after Jan. 1, but actively managing and identifying poor driving conditions under which the road could be closed -- and reopened if conditions improved. As a result, some years the road might be closed in January and others it might be March. It also means working to develop a lot of other alternatives, like signage warning drivers about the conditions of the road, public education, and gate designs to name just a few. 3) They (the Forest Service) intend to move the "snowmobile alternative" route. Instead of starting at Moser Cr. (near Langhor Campground) and circling around the East side of Hyalite, they will designate a route leaving from Blackmore (the dam) and going around the west side of the Hyalite Reservoir. This is a much more logical and direct route, assuming the plowing reaches Blackmore. 4) The Forest Service will hold off implementing the part of the travel plan affecting ice climbers until #2 and #3 above are in place. ------ What does this mean for (getting to) the ice climbing in Hyalite? This is a great step in the right direction. The SMCC is very interested in working with the FS and other groups to keep the Hyalite Road as accessible as possible, for as long as possible into the winter. And we're glad to hear that the Forest Service wants to work with us and the other groups to the same end. If the goal of plowing a long way into Hyalite is achieved, all of the recreational user groups will benefit from the increased access. We have agreed to not file for judicial review as long as the good faith conversations and negotiations are moving forward between climbers and the Forest Service on the 4-part proposal. We will not, however, withdraw our appeal prior to an acceptable settlement. We have built a strong administrative record and have reserved the right to petition the federal courts and contest the travel plan should discussions with the Forest Service fail. The short-term solution of public education, signage, and standards for when the road will be closed will take considerable effort, time and money ALonger term ideas we are also pursuing are to elevate Hyalite to National or Public Recreation Area status, perhaps the nation's first for an ice climbing venue, and improving and plowing the road all the way to Grotto Falls Parking Lot. Pursuing this will be costly and time-consuming, but could result in a permanent solution with vastly improved access season long. Thanks for your help and support on the Hyalite Road issue. Lending your voices in the newspaper, to our elected officials, on montanaice.com, and to other climbers and non-climbers are what has made the difference in this campaign. It is not over yet, not by a long shot, but we are through the first crux. Jim Earl

I'll second the Gold Bond medicated powder (the green bottle).

I'm guessing Straight Shooter on the Brass Wall.

Birdland is pretty sweet. I haven't done the 6th pitch since I heard it wasn't worth it. Plus, there are a bunch of other routes on the Brass Wall that are worth doing.

How was the rock on that side of the buttress? I climbed the left side and it was downright terrifying at times. I have six nuts on my rack from people's rappel stations. I should have taken that as a clue. It also seemed considerably harder than what Brunckhorst has in his guidebook.

I've never heard of any break-ins there. Mutt and Jeff is sweet as jlag said, but it's 5.8, not 5.9. I've heard that the southwest ridge is really good as well. It shares the first pitch of the M&J and then goes to the right of the cyclops eye. It is 5.8 as well. Tiny Tim is good, but it's clipping bolts. Here is a topo of the south face. http://www.firstascentpress.com/pdf/Humbug-sample.pdf 6 is Tiny Tim, 11 is M&J, and 12 is the southwest ridge.

I was out climbing at First Creek yesterday. It's totally reasonable to be out climbing now as long as you're in the shade.

There is some cragging at the north end of the lake. There's a place called Kila Crag just west of Kalispell and a place called Somers Dump in Somers at the northern end of the lake. I've never been there, but the name alone makes me question it. There is a small guidebook on these areas available from Rocky Mountain Outfitters. It costs around $5. If I were you, I'd go check out Stone Hill in Eureka MT. Significant amounts of clean quartzite. It's about an hour or so NW of Kalispell. Here's a link to RMO. http://www.rockymountainoutfitter.com

Nice TR Chad. Did you climb that thing car to car? If so, that's a pretty brutal day. Where exactly did the snow line start? I'm hoping to climb the Enclosure Couloir this summer and trying to get an idea as to when to do it. I was actually up in Beehive Basin skiing on Sunday. There didn't appear to be any ice, but the skiing was fun with a foot of heavy new snow. Not too bad for the end of May. Maybe things will work out better for you on the Beehive next time.

VW Here is a sample page from JJ's book. http://www.firstascentpress.com/pdf/Sample-Page-wd.pdf I have climbed the route labeled B in the photo last March, but there was only a little ice in it. It was a lean snow year last year, so nothing probably formed anyway. We dropped our skis off at point A,climbed rock and snow to the summit, then skied the couloir and back to the car. This year there is a ton of snow down that way, so I could see the routes forming up better. You may want to try posting on www.montanaice.com and seeing if someone has been up there. I could give you some names of people to contact if you need more info.