gavastik
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Posts posted by gavastik
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Edited to remove this post. Just found my puffy! Feel like an idiot, but a happy one.
Sorry about that.
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What should one expect on the Kautz glacier route at the end of August / start of September? Hard ice?
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Wes,
I'm so sorry about your friend's accident! We must have been already way down on the trail because we never heard anything. I had no idea you needed help up there until I read this report just now.
I'm glad everybody is OK in the end and wishing him a full and speedy recovery.
We'd met the 3 NEWS climbers on the trail on the way up. Kudos to them for helping, and to SAR of course.
Thank you for the report.
Cheers
Paulina
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Trip: Liberty Bell, WA Pass - Beckey Route
Date: 6/22/2013
Trip Report:
RK and I went to Washington Pass on Saturday. The plan was to do the N Face of Concord and then maybe the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell. The N Face of Concord was really wet, so we roped up for Beckey. A very nice party of 4 from Monroe (hi fearless leader Wes!) let us climb next to them and then ahead of them.
I had climbed the route a couple of years ago, but kept forgetting which way to go, and the ST route description somehow was very confusing. When in doubt (on p3), go the well-traveled way
. Anyway, what I love about the Beckey Rte is how grippy the rock is on it. Always felt super-solid. Gear Notes:
Ice axe and/or poles for the snow. We wore crampons in the morning on the way up, but the snow was soft and we could have bare-booted it. Others did.
Approach Notes:
Patchy snow higher on the trail, solid snow after awhile on the approach path, then loose rock, then steep-ish snow to ~100+ ft under the Liberty-Concord col. As always, beware loose rock in that gully.
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This doesn't seem to be used much, but I'll give it a shot:
1. Date - Fri 6/21 evening, back Sat 6/22 evening
2. Washington Pass
3. Seattle
4. 1
5. I can rent a car/zipcar and give rides or would prefer to share an existing ride and pay for gas.
I'm meeting a partner there, so this is just for the ride.
Thanks!
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Has anyone been to the WA Pass area recently, Liberty Bell or SEWS/NEWS? What's it like these days? Snow/ice on the ground, snow/ice on the routes?
Thank you!
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Thanks Water and Christoph!
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Hi all!
New to Mt Hood and trying to go with a few fellow skiers on Mem day Monday. My question is how do people usually negotiate climbers vs. skiers on the Old Chute route? I saw the "clusterfuckery" picture and it doesn't look like a whole lot of room for everybody. Is there some sort of standard procedure?
Somebody asked about lift-assisted summit attempt. Is that done? I know it's cheating, but is it too dangerous to start so late? From trip reports it seems like everybody gets an alpine start to avoid rockfall. But then the snow probably isn't soft enough to ski in the early morning.
I'll keep searching for trip reports, but if anybody has advice for me, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Hey I'm tryna go down there memorial weekend too. I'm tryna find a partner to go with. Maybe Friday night and Saturday summit? Lemme know if your interested.
Hi! I saw your post for partners earlier, but sorry I can only go on Mem day Monday, and we have a potential group of skiers already. Best of luck finding a partner!
And sorry to hijack this thread, I will ask my question in the Oregon Cascades forum.
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Its not too steep, I skied from the summit ridge in early March. The traverse is fairly narrow, but your moutaineering, you should be more than fine. My dog would have no issue summiting (at least in the conditions I saw in March).
What's the usual plan for skiing from the summit in terms of avoiding the climbers and getting reasonably pleasant snow conditions on the way down? I'm thinking of heading up on Memorial day.
Thanks!
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I've PM-ed you both.
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Alpental/off Snow Lake trail ice conditions today:
We didn't touch it.
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Short of a big-wall harness I for some reason find the BOD more comfortable than any of the fancy new harnesses.
But that says nothing to address your GF's issue. I would second the idea of belaying off an anchor instead of the harness. On the rare occasion when I've had to belay and lower much bigger people, it was the only thing that didn't hurt.
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Thanks! I guess Valhalla Pure in Squamish is the closest one.
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Hello!
Do you know anybody local (to Seattle or nearby climbing destinations) who does trigger wire repair?
I know Fish does it (in CA) and that there are some DIY kits available.
I've got a couple of fraying WC friends. Thanks for any recommendations.
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Sounds like a better climb than Guye eh Gavastik
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I know! The snow only stayed on the high peaks when we were there, but now it's probably snowing there again. And accumulating.
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Well, that was the longest title ever!
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Trip: Washington Pass, Early Winter Spires - South Arete on SEWS, Northwest Corner on NEWS
Date: 9/29/2011
Trip Report:
It turns out that great days in the mountains make for boring stories. Laurel Fan and I climbed the Early Winter Spires on Thursday, September 29, and it was a good long day.
The long version with pictures is here: http://womenclimbersnw.wordpress.com/2011/10/02/early-winter-spires-2/
The short version is we planned to stay in the sun for most of the day. Simul-climbed the South Arete (5.4-56 depending who you ask) on SEWS (< 2 hours one-way from the base). Then Laurel led the Northwest Corner 5.9 in perfect style while I A0-ed the crux pitches "in the interest of time".
The NW Corner route is very physical at the crux, which is an almost overhanging offwidth inside a flaring corner. I hear from someone better than me (my fearless leader Laurel) that the nearby West Face 5.11- is an easier climb, but don't quote me on that.
A view onto South Arete from the summit of SEWS:
Gear Notes:
Two 4" pieces very helpful at the crux (p4) of the Northwest Corner route on NEWS. Laurel had one #4 and a large hex.
We had one 70m rope for descent. It looked like a 60m would also do the trick.
Approach Notes:
From the base of South Arete on SEWS for NEWS, we walked a bit down and around the spires. Pretty soon it looks like there would be impassable slabs so we dropped down further, but it turned out later that the higher passage would have worked too.
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Wow, thank you for all the advice! Everything appreciated and especially the point about climbing on/near solstice!
As it was, on Wednesday we lugged a bunch of gear to the base only to find that by the time we got there the whole face was in the shade, it was cold, and the snow moat was less than inviting (although we did monkey around in it without the packs). So we turned around and went climbing in Mazama like the unprepared weaklings that we are.
And yesterday we climbed the Early Winter Spires instead. TR forthcoming!
Saving Liberty Crack for a long day in June when the snow might reach to the top of the scrambling? One can hope! :-)
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It seems slower parties fix the first 3 pitches of Liberty Crack before returning for the blast to the top.
But Beckey's guide puts the pitches at 130ft, 120 ft and another 120ft. And that's not counting the 100ft of "class 4" aka 5.6 that is pitch 0. Are those numbers right? Somewhere else I read that p2 and p3 were 95ft each.
So... Can anybody tell me if it's possible to fix p1-3 with two 60m ropes, or not? Thanks a lot!
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Thanks Mark! I was at Marmot the other week and looked but didn't see them. Maybe I should just call them.
Meanwhile, if anyone has an old pair for sale, I'm all ears.
EDIT: Just called, and you're right, they do have them.
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Hi!
I'd like to buy a pair of 7tm tour or power-tour tele bindings. Or if you know a place that sells them in Seattle or Snoqualmie Pass, I'd appreciate the info.
Cheers
Paulina
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PM sent (to both moira armen and klimerdork).
WTB Kindershuttle or other baby pulk
in Kids
Posted
Getting excited for the coming ski season, but need to do something with this new human in my family. Anybody ready to part with their KinderShuttle or another good baby sled or pulk? It would be used mostly for skiing in-track/on groomed XC trails, but also hopefully the occasional easy BC outing.
Thank you!