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SWNick

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Everything posted by SWNick

  1. Yikes. This might be the most ignorant post or comment—including those from the bozos on fox—I've heard since this incident began. In fact, there is MUCH to be gleaned by parsing the details of this accident, from building a snow cave, to what to bring on a climb (winter or summer), to how to stay alive until someone gets to you if you're in trouble. To dismiss this without discussion disrespects the climbers far more than analyzing the particulars of their demise.
  2. Hmmmm. Okay, these are interesting details. Aside from the comments about his partners, though, he sounded fairly lucid, though certainly in trouble. In any case, I'm as guilty of speculation as everyone else.
  3. The info you cite was from a phone call James made in which he seemed delirious, according to his family. It's possible some of what James said in that call was truthful, but it's also possible that none of what he said was. Oh please. You've been watching CNN, haven't you.
  4. People, this is NOT a bollard! C'mon. They slung the rock visible in the photo. You can see where the rope runs behind it. Also, it looks very flimsy to be a rap anchor. More likely a quick tie-in to provide a belay on a steep slope. Rope probably got frozen in during storm.
  5. Many speculating about what happened aren't looking closely at the available info, at least as it's been reported. James called last Sunday. He was in a cave, near the summit, hurt (or "in trouble"), and his two teamates had gone for help. The weather was bad all week, with only brief and marginal weather windows. There are tracks leading UP, presumably to the summit, though top steps seem to be erased by wind/snow/ice. There are multiple axe belay holes in the snow next to the steps, suggesting at least two people ascended. Today a body was found in a second cave above the first. These were experienced climbers with minimal gear planning a light-n-fast ascent of a technical route in winter. By all appearances they did all the right things to attempt self-rescue/preservation. SO, a theory... James got hurt high on the route. They hunkered down to assess and plan a course of action. The weather crapped out, so they dug in. James was probably too hurt to move, so other two attempted to go up and over for quicker, safer descent of south side to dispatch help for James. They got hit by weather on summit or thereabouts. They got disoriented either had an accident/fall or dug in somewhere because they couldn't navigate in white out conditions. If they tried to push on in white out, they could be nearly anywhere. After a few days with no help arriving and now a dead phone, a desperate James, who was probably out of fuel, made a heroic effort to climb out but couldn't get far. He dug in again and hoped for the best. I'm just bummed the outcome is looking so grim. These guys rocked it, and they just ran into bad luck.
  6. says LIVE on CNN. No indication sar investigating other cave, at least on NS. Again, what's the source for this info?
  7. But isn't there an arrest technique involving the use of two axes, I believe? NO! That's only in Vertical Limit. Christ. Also, they would NOT have been carrying two tools AND and ice ax.
  8. That theory would fly in the face of every other theory that says it's warmer and safer in your cave then venturing out in the cold. Are there any known cases of people leaving their cave to be found elsewhere, without an accident, and without digging a new cave? more likely he (James, most likely) was out of fuel (needed to melt snow for water)and knew he had to make a dash for it, maybe during slight weather window before weekend
  9. I'm troubled by tools left behind. How steep is NF? I'd want two tools on anything more than 50 degrees. Also, rope found there suggests a solo climber.
  10. Understandable that they might try to relocate if the orig cave was in avy path in one the NF gullies.
  11. "They keep saying that the "Y" is meant and 'yes, I am here'. That's not what I think it meant. Wouldn't that be an arrow pointing out that they left and which direction they may have gone?" Agreed. I've never heard of this being some sort of universal climber's code. Anyone confirm or deny?
  12. appears that sar workers are chopping platforms on s-side of summit. Maybe prepping to spend the night up there. Also, foot of climbers descending N-side pretty quickly, on Cooper Spur, looks like. Why don't they drop a worker down to cave on winch from Chinook?
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