Wayno

Try posting on the Taco. There are plenty of old trad ledgends there. Most of them are very helpful.

I was in high school in the Bay Area at the time. I had some friends that hung at camp 4 at the time. I remember smoking the buds. Mexican seedless. Dried twice but still worked. I heard a few stories at the time but i didn't know which were urban legend or not. I heard there was pot and some coke and some money and a book with names and such. The guy who found the book died a questionable death. That's the stuff I remember.

Your right, now that I have an atc I'll use it till it no longer is functional. I never saw the need to replace my figure 8, It worked fine and I can't afford to go buy the latest piece of bling gear. I still use hexes also. I feel sorry for those yungins who couldn't lead a 5.9 without a rack of cams. I came from a generation that found it hard to throw anything usefull away. Sorry.

Heavy and slow paradigm? You make it sound like carrying a couple of ounces around is a sign that I belong to some ancient tribe of nardowells. How much water do you carry? Did you take a dump this morning?

I have used an 8 for many years and never had trouble. A half dozen walls belaying and rappelling. Beats a hip belay. It seems that devices don't get much simpler. The key may be to avoid any clusterfunking. Keep your wits about you. Focus. Use the gear as it is designed, and it will probably work for you. I now use an atc and think they are fine for what they are intended. I still always have my 8 in the bottom of my pack for a backup.

Wanna go to Index on Tuesday? I need to touch some granite. The soul is saying, "rock, rock"

8 mile campground, sites 26&27. At least five of us so far.

So far we have three for sure and three maybes. I know it's going to be hot and crowded, but we're going anyway. At this point I'm just looking for a chance to meet new people to climb with. Two of us will go up on friday to get a campsite and they will call me on friday night with a location. I'm going up sat. morning. We will probably establish a place to meet in town on saturday. Anyone interested can PM me for details. Free pasta dinner on saturday for anyone who shows.

After hijacking Goup's partner post I decided to start a new thread. I talked to Steve O in Bend and we decided to pursue this gathering in Leavenworth thing. I've contacted the new partners I've met this year on these boards and have garnered some interest in a meeting. Originally we talked about Old School trad people, but we would welcome anyone interested in joining the fun. Fun is our main goal and an opportunity to meet other climbers. Originally my posts on this board met with only sarcasm, but recently I've had some success with meeting amicable partners. I'm sure there are others out there looking for experienced people to climb with. Even those with little experience are encouraged to join us. Those that I've talked with have no problem sharing their knowledge with a humble newbie. So how about it. An informal gathering of like minded climbers looking for others to climb with and share experiences and stories. Leavenworth this weekend, Sat., Sun., and Mon. Get some campsites and determine a meeting place of sorts and go out and climb. I am even considering cooking some food for people if I get enough interest. I'm a professional cook for many years. I will check my PMs regularly. Wayno.

The first annual Old School Rendezvous at Leavenworth? Actual interest? I'm certainly up for it. C'mon you Advil eatin' Beer is food sorts, Let's get it goin'. Anyone else looking to climb with other gray haired gear savvy kooks, let's hear it. I think my wife will let me go, unless this is successful, in which case she'll find some project ...

I would assume these guys were not Hangdogging and that they know what to expect from gear placements. I know the original poster and he is top notch Old School smart. Not some Sport climber with little gear experience. Maysho = Mayfield. Ever heard of him?

SM,I had a great time also, even on those dinky sport routes. I still got scared on the steep stuff.I find the older I get, the less it matters what I'm climbing and the more it matters who I'm climbing with and the setting. That's probably one reason why I have never been in a gym. I'm getting a little response on the Older and Bolder thing and it's encouraging. I've got some numbers and I'm gonna call around and see who's game for some adventure.Viva la Old School. Wayno.

Let's hear it for the over 40's! Some of us can still do the moves. Steve, or anyone else, Sun.&Mon. of Labor Day might be a good possibility. An over 40 gathering? Tell war stories?

Ericb, How about something with a shorter hike and better rock. Like the Boving-Pollock or Minuteman. I would be able to do any or all pitches on those routes. Wayno

Hey Go_up and Smloupe, I find myself in a similar situation. 47, at it for 30 years, Rack, rope, truck, but very few to out and up with. I haven't done any ice and very little alpine, but I have big wall exp. and old-school habits. I can lead 5.9 or better and can follow almost anything up to 5.11. Aid is my forte. I just want to do some long trad classics but will go for just about anything. We should get together and do some old-school trad stuff. I'll check my pm's if you guys are interested. Oh yeah, I have Mon., Teus. off.

Matt, nice job on Cro-Magnon Man. Yosemite could use a good Daryl Hatten memorial route. You could be the man. There's a few yanks that would back you up.

My free skills sound about as good as yours right now. I've been at it for over 30 years. I too want to train for a Yose trip this fall. I've done the Captain twice and Leaning Tower twice, but that was a while ago. Mid eighties-hard nailing. I need to hone the more modern stuff. I have all aid accessories, just not a big rack. Unlimited heads though. Cranking out a bunch of index routes sounds great. PM me.

Mark, Thanx again. I passed the word and that thread you turned me on to has become quite a good one, probably one of the best I've ever seen on these climbing forums. Anyone that knew Daryl should check out the above link from Mark.

Wow! Thanx. I passed on the link to people that know him better.

I climbed the NW face of Half Dome with Daryl and Dave Yerian and a guy named Mike Hernandez. I had just met Daryl and he was all that I had heard. A truly great climber and a really fun guy to hang with. Daryl was broke, so i got him some smokes, and he made some funky aiders with a bunch of slings and we were off. Daryl did all the aid pitches and I did the hard free stuff. He was very fast and had impeccable technique. We would haul with a nine mil and if I was still at it when he got to the belay he would just start to hand over hand the rest. wow. He cleaned about a dozen pins off the route and when we got to the top he was the first one down. I was the second down and Daryl already had the pins sold and was waiting with the cold Coors. I will never forget Daryl, especially after meeting all his Canadian buddies at the Memorial on Squamish Chief last year. A great bunch of guys. Long live his memory.

Lycra was one reason I quit climbing so much. I do have some weird stuff on my rack like Clog chocks and I make my own heads. I once made my own portaledge and spent many nights on the Captain in it . It was even collapsible. My first pair of shoes was some Pivetta Spiders. Oh, the days...

I got em. I'm looking for people to go climb with. I've been climbing since before there was sport and trad so I guess that would make me trad. I'll climb anything. I don't care. I prefer a long clean granite wall. I'll use aid or free climb. I can still confidently onsight lead up to 5.9 A3 and probably a little harder for some stuff. I've never been to a rock-gym and have only recently done any "sport" routes. I did all my hard climbing back in the Eighties in Cali and only in the last couple years have I been interested in climbing again. I have a rack of sorts and a rope and a 4WD vehicle. I have mondays and tuesdays off and can get other days as well. Anyone game? My wish is to do some of the aid routes at Index in practice for a Yose trip in the fall. I wanna do a wall again.