mwalker

This makes it more clear: Will gadd

Anyone figure out how colin's self belay rig works (the one he used soloing exocet)? See photo in his blog: self belay

Wow, those Slovaks are wild. That thing in "Slika 4" looks like a fire extinguisher. Looks complicated; not sure why you couln't use a v-thread instead of the first set-up. No, I have never used anything like this.

beat Dane to it: Alpine Exposures

I dislocated my shoulder in September playing rugby and again 10 days later trying to climb on it. Been seeing a physio and rehabbing it pretty hard in the hopes of tightening it up and preventing it from coming out a third time. I've never had it dislocate before but I'm told that if it comes out a third time it's surgery time. Most of the exercises my physio has me doing are to strengthen/tighten my delt, bicep and tricep (as well as all the rotator cuff ones). Anyone have any specific exercises they would recommend that helped them get their dislocated shoulder back in shape for climbing? How long were you off? thanks

People were talking about the fusions in Chamonix; I too am curious about how they compare to the nomics.

Trip: Another Cham TR - Date: 10/10/2009 Trip Report: Got lots of advice from people on this board on where to spend three weeks in france in september/october. Dislocated my shoulder two days before leaving and a second time a week later cragging in chamonix so didn't really take anyone's advice. Ended up going up mont blanc but that's about it. The route from the top of the aiguille du midi. Took the cable car up at the end of the day and spent the night at the refuge to aclimatize (had one of the best meals in france at the refuge - served by nubile french women) french climbing fashion lots of these guys at the top. south face of the aiguille was pretty active while i was up there cosmique arret mont blanc due tacul - the face acts up in the afternoon even in october. most people head out from the refuge between 1 and 3 am. Not crazy crowded at that time of the year but you can see the goat trail the whole way up. face of Mont Maudit Duncan at the top of the Maudit ridge. He had just completed a 16 month motorcycle trip from Sydney, Aus to London, UK. He got altitude sickness and puked off and on for the first 5 hours. the summit ahead the top, 4,900 meters french climbers she's climbed more mountains than you ever will. Gear Notes: The french guides tell you to only bring one tool but they show up with two. If you're going to do it by yourself bring two. Approach Notes: 50 euros to the top of the tram (3,800 m). Another 50 to spend the night in the nicest refuge you'll ever stay in.

sounds sweet - you figure it's easy to find partners there?

Heading to France at the end of September for three weeks to climb and see the place. Traveling by myself and wondered if anyone had any suggestions of where to go. Not there for long so figued I'd hit one, two or maybe three places where it's easy to find (attractive french speaking) partners. Cham, Ceuse, Verdon, Font? Is the weather any good in Cham in October? Is it filled with brits? Didn't really think i'd bring crampons or axes, is that a mistake?

Last winter some people were speculating that petzl may be coming out with a hammer/adze version of the nomic. Anyone heard anything more about that?

one of the better posts on this website

Thanks. Was hoping there might be something to snag after work before the warm weather rolls in. I guess not. I figure scottish tale would amount to a long walk in the rain this weekend.

Anyone been through the bluffs in the last day or so? see any ice?

my friend, some of the best ice/mix climbing is around this time of the year, you just have to know where I don't suppose you'd like to elaborate on that would you?

here is what it looked like on sunday. lots of ice on the easy route and the lower half of the polish one but lots of falling ice/rocks and flowing water.

If you are flying overseas (esp. to/from Australasia & Europe) don't fucking try the dumbass american massive carryon. They'll inspect it and make you check it one way or another and then you are fucked. Learn to travel light. It doesn't take many $25-$100 overweight bag fees for things to add up. Learn to budget for the total trip. How much will the flight cost? Your luggage? Transport? The last airline I flew with, air new zealand, had a weight limit for carry-on as well as the checked baggage. Pacific Blue and the others that fly to Australia have a similar policy. On the way home I'm planning on wearing my boots and a couple of extra layers. Will make for an uncomfortable flight but I figure it's probably worth it.

I've heard this before but how would clipping both (half) ropes into one piece of protection double the fall factor? do you mean it increases the impact force on that piece; maybe because the two ropes together are less stretchy than one strand by itself?

Anyone have any suggestions for an insole that works well with these boots? I've tried using my orange superfeet but they are too thick in the heel so they screw up the fit of the boots (cause the heel of the boot is so sculpted it seems that any insole that is thicker than the factory supplied ones don't work). Anyone tried using the other types of superfeet with these boots? thanks

climbed at marble canyon on tuesday the 18th. nice weather and nice ice. the guy tr-ing the right side of the last (4th) pitch of icy-bc said it was pretty thin and was close to grade 6 by his estimates. we quit after the 3rd pitch. lower deeping wall was a little chopped out, upper part of it didn't take great protection. we tried to find the approach to syncronicity on wednesday the 19th but never found the log crossing the river. the traveling conditions are attrocious - thick crust that crunches your shins as you break through it - so we gave up and went to carls-burg instead. Has anyone been up there, to syncronicity, this year? We decended from the road at some flagging tap, at where we figured the guide said we should, but with no luck. Carls-burg - same bad snow there too. did it in 2 pitches - neither of which i lead. 1st pitch was grade 4 climbing with not great pro. 2nd pitch was a little wet but pro was good.

So i'm heading to new zealand from Feb to July - going to be living in christchurch - plan is to never go to school and climb lots. From this thread i'd say that "Rock Deluxe" is the guidbook i want. Anyone know if this is still the case, or is there is a newer one out? Also, i'd like to do some alpine but i'm not that interested in lugging my screws and axes over there. Anyone have an opinion on whether i can get away with just bringing crampons and a single axe (in addition to all my rock gear)

looks good

Kurt and Dylan looked like they had a good time so my partner and I headed up on Friday Nov. 2 - the weather was great on the approach. It deteriorated later... Conditions were the same I think - polish route still looks pretty thin. Found a good sheltered rock belay at top of the first pitch on the left rather than the right. Second pitch is still fat. crappy belay at top of the 3rd pitch - only had one picket. we simul climbed the last two pitches - it felt solid and we found a few spots for screws and a few knife blades. Topping out: The storm rolled in just as we were topping out and we had an epic walk off in a white out. Not sure if we were off route or what but we had to front point down numerous pitches. Ended up rapping the last pitch before hitting the saddle. Spent a couple of hours lost wandering around the glacier in the storm - finally made it back to the car around 7:30.

nice one. saw z on the bus, said you guys might be heading up there for the weekend.

Anyone have any experience on any of these this time of year? Or, any predictions about what conditions would be like around now?

hey Dru can you elaborate on the powerstrap setup. i'm imagining something like this. is that correct?