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Julia

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Everything posted by Julia

  1. Hi everyone, I'm a working professional/weekend climber. However, I happened to get the summer off and my lease happens to end in June, and I got this crazy idea to just put my stuff in storage and spend the summer in Squamish!! I was in Squamish for a total of 5 weekends last summer, but I've never spent more than 4 days in a row there so I have a few questions for anyone who might know. 1. Camping. I'm planning on staying at the climber's campground. Is there a limit for how long you can camp there? If so, how do I get around that? Would it be enough to move to a different campsite, or should I plan on getting a room in the hostel for a night every couple of weeks? Any other suggestions? I have a truck -- I could sleep in the back of that once in a while. I'm thinking of getting a camper shell, but I'm not sure I can afford it. 2. Showers. I don't mind going for a week or so without a shower, but I'm going to want one once in a while -- swimming in the lake only does so much. Will I have to get a room in a hostel to get a decent shower? Or spend that night at the Shannon Falls campground maybe? Is there another public shower I could somehow use? 3. Climbing partners!! I'm planning on doing this by myself. How hard will it to be to find people to climb with? I'm particularly concerned because I'm not the greatest climber. I can top-rope 5.10's clean, but I tend to be pretty slow. As far as leading, I can lead 8 sport consistently and only 7 trad consistently. I have lead Sally Five Fingers and a few other 8's in that area of Smoke Bluffs. They were really easy and short though and I wouldn't say I can lead 8's consistently -- I wouldn't be comfortable leading the 8 pitches of Diedre for example. I'm hoping that after spending a couple of months there, I'll be climbing much better, but at my current ratings, do you think it'll be difficult for me to find people to climb with? I will post in the partners section of this board as well as squamishclimbing.com, and probably put a note up on the bulletin board at the climber’s campground. Any other suggestions for finding partners? 4. Getting there. I live in Seattle and I'm an American. I'm planning on driving there. If I say that I'm planning on staying for a couple of months will that cause problems at the boarder crossing? 5. A job. Although I think I can cover the minimal expenses that go with living out of a tent, it would be nice to have some kind of part-time job for extra spending money. How hard would it be to find something like that as an American? Where should I look (the hostel, the climbing store, etc)? 6. Anything I'm forgetting? Anything else I should know about? Thanks in advance!
  2. Because it was almost 90 degrees and Matt sweats *a lot*. Seriously - he's normally dripping wet after a climb. I think he'd pass out from heat exhaustion if he'd been in pants. A word to the wise though - if any of you do this approach and think there might be a change of bushwhacking (I think you should be prepared either way) I'd recommend wearing shorts and gators. That way you could still be in shorts for the climb, but you wouldn't get as scraped up as we did. If you do decide to wear pants, don't wear your favorite ones - they'll probably get torn.
  3. Yeah, I know. Like I said, finding the climb was not our problem. Once we got there, it was obvious where the route was. The approach was our problem. We didn't bail on the climb because we couldn't find it, we bailed because we had a hard time with the approach and we got to the climb too late.
  4. I have a personal blog that includes 3 climbing related pages. Check 'em out if you want. Keep in mind these are organization pages - you have to click on the links to get the individual trip reports and pictures. http://juliasclimbingpage.blogspot.com/ http://hikingmountaineering.blogspot.com/ http://comeawaywithme-highpoints.blogspot.com/
  5. Thanks - I got a little mixed up looking at the pictures when I put them up. I'll have Matt go through them and find the ones of 3'oclock rock when he gets home.
  6. Hi everyone - Matt's girlfriend here. I'm positive we were on the right route (second wash-out). We did get to the base of the right climb and we were in the right spot, it was just too late. The slabs were really wet. Remember, it was a high snow year, and the snow stuck around pretty late so it will be different that it's been in previous years. Also, I'm not as confidant walking on slabs as Matt is and most of you are so with some water and moss, I was getting pretty sketched out (especially after slipping and sliding down ~2 feet). Those of you who feel better walking on slabs may have an easier time. And we didn't see the trees we were supposed to climb (we didn't know should have been looking for them) so we opted for bushwhacking which made the approach considerably longer and we just didn't get to the base in time to climb the route and get back to the car before it got dark. The climb looked clean and perfect if you can get there. 3'oclock rock looked totally fine and clear too - including the approach. We even drove over the the start of the approach hike just to check it out before we left and it looked fine. Now let me see if I have more success adding pictures than Matt did: Here’s Matt almost to the base of the climb. The snow to the right of the climb heading toward Westward Ho – it’s more slick and steep than it looks. I'm pretty sure this is looking toward 3’oclock rock from the base of Blueberry.
  7. I think I'm a little late on this, but I'm usually at Stone Gardens on Monday and Wednesday evening. You're welcome to join me anytime! I have girl in my name too, so we should definately be climbing partners!
  8. Julia

    Just moved here

    Hey everyone, My boyfriend and I just moved to Seattle and I'm looking for climbing partners. I'm mostly a rock climber but am getting into mountaineering reciently and hope to climb some mountains in addition to rock this summer. I'm really looking for other girls to climb with, so if you're a girl rock climber or mountaineer, let me know! I'd love to climb with you! For rock climbing, I've got lots of room to improve. I'm currently only climbing 5.8's and 5.9's clean on top rope. I can get up a 10, but it's not pretty. Trad is my favorite, but sport is fun too. My goal for the summer is to climb 10's solidly and to be leading sport 8's by September. Next summer, I'll learn to lead trad. As far as mountaineering goes, I'm taking a beginning mountaineering course through the Washington Alpine Club this Spring. I'm planning on climbing Mt. Whitney, Mt, Hood, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Baker this summer. Next summer, I hope to do Rainer.
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