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boadman

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Everything posted by boadman

  1. Bump... This is a complete rack of friends from 1.5 up to 4 with a couple of aliens tossed in. Doesn't someone need a starter rack? Or a double set for cheap?
  2. I've always thought it was a little strange when people admitted that they hadn't fallen on 10 or 15 year old gear. I have to admit, the new slings have not taken a fall.
  3. Hi - I've got 9 cams for sale, a couple of old WC tech friends, a few flex friends, and a couple of aliens. They're all freshly re-slung by Wired Bliss, and lubed with white lightening. These are my third set that I just don't use much any more. WC: 1.5 2 2.5 (2) x 3 3.5 4 CCH: Green, yellow $45 for the aliens, $35 for the WC cams. I've taken lots of falls on all of these cams, which means they are thoroughly proven to work very well. :-) I'd prefer not to ship unless you want to buy the whole lot. If you want to buy individual cams, I can meet you in the U-district so you can check them out. Thanks!
  4. One thing to note is that the RR grades are generally pretty soft in comparison with local areas, so being comfortable on 5.9 around here would probably get you into the low to mid 10s there without too much trouble.
  5. There were several copies at the VW Seattle gym for sale, at a reasonable price. I believe the proceeds go to the WCC. I might be able to part with a yellow & red alien if you're offering sufficient funds.
  6. The LTW will be totally climbable after the last few days of nice weather. Some of the starts might be a titch damp, but by mid-morning most things will be hottogo.
  7. I think you might as well put up your hang boards and maybe a campus board at home and go to the gym when you want to boulder with friends.
  8. Have you noticed any durability issues? Specifically, when I played with them I was worried that the thinner cables that run over the cams to the clip in point that pull down on the cams' inner lever would wear out over time. I figured I'd wait until people had used them for a year or two before I bought any for myself.
  9. What about the relatively thin wires that run over the levers on the cam lobes? Are those fraying at all, or showing any wear for people that have used them a lot?
  10. Now that these have been out for a while, how's their durability? Are they going to last 10 years like the c4s? Are they more fragile? Do you have any 0.75 C4 equivalents available?
  11. I recommend that you get the best, you're probably going to be stuck with them for at least 10 years. Saving a few dollars doesn't make sense if you ammortize it over how much you'll use them, just buy a couple less and add more over the years. The Petzl Spirits, or the BD Livewires are both very nice if you climb a lot of sport. I like the Petzl spirits a little better because you can get the longer draws which are a little nicer for trad climbing.
  12. I could drop the most weight by stopping eating ice-cream. How old are your cams? The new BD C4s, and the new DMM dragons are roughly equivalent in terms of performance and lighter than their predecessors in the large sizes. The DMMs allow you to carry significantly less draws though, which is a pretty big weight savings.
  13. I hope he's ok! Hitting the ground sucks. I would like to know what happened, we can all learn from each others' mistakes.
  14. I wonder if he grades his often un-repeated routes index-style. He's got those slab-tastic skills that a lot of us modern climbers never quite develop.
  15. It is kind of scary though. On a hard onsite attempt, for instance, I never look at the biners on the fixed draws to check and see if they're in good shape. I've also (personally) had a hanger pop off on a crux bolt where people regularly dog and had worked it loose, and a sling cut on a fixed draw where it was rubbing against a rock and you couldn't see the wear. I love fixed draws, but they definitely have some safety issues associated with them. Saying, "oh it can't happen to me, I'm too smart" is just as bad as the doom and gloomers. Oh, and the hanger coming off and the sling cutting both resulted in ground falls. One from about 25', and one from about 15'. I walked away from both of them, but fuck with my head to this day.
  16. I read the report, and it seemed like their description and the media report matched up pretty well. It's not as if they were even claiming a ground-breaking ascent. I could see being a little disappointed if, for instance, the dawn-wall team reported a red-point but didn't place pro on lead.
  17. It looks like someone needs to sink a bunch of bolts in the cave. How was the rock quality in there? Worthy?
  18. I think the SBP is actually as good as any of the gyms in Boulder or SLC.
  19. The big science extension was rebolted and cleaned last year.
  20. I think there's also a demographic issue at work. A lot of the climbers in colorado moved there because they are climbers and moved there basically for the weather and because they want to climb all the time. Climbers that stay in the PNW generally have other facets of their life that are nearly as important to them as climbing, such as jobs and families. Speaking as a typical professional with a job and a family, I generally get about 1 day a week to climb outside during the season, sometimes no days at all. I only usually get about one weekend each summer where I can sneak off to the mountains and do an alpine route. So, I tend to focus on cragging, bouldering, and projecting harder stuff within an hour or so of Seattle and when I get a chance to do an alpine route I usually go do something classic that I haven't done before.
  21. I've never put in a glue-in. How do you make sure that the epoxy is properly mixed, and that you've got the right about of epoxy in the hole? Also, if you're bolting ground up or on a severely over-hanging face, and there isn't good pro, it seems like you'd have to wait a day in between bolts or something?
  22. If the rope becomes static due to the impact from the first piece failing, and there is several feet between the two pieces, the added force on the second piece from the now-static rope could be enough to cause it to fail. I think the only way to decide conclusively would be to do a bunch of testing with some load cells and find out what actually happens in the real world.
  23. Hi - If anyone is interested, I'm selling my diesel SUV with a Frybrid waste vegetable oil kit installed. It runs ok, but it needs a throttle position sensor, which will probably require a trip up to vancouver to get it worked on, as local mechanics are not very familiar with these engines. It's got roughly 160,000 kilometers on the vehicle, which is about 100,000 miles. Contact me if you'd like to see pictures or have any questions. The Frybrid kit is really nice, drive for free and carbon nuetral. Check their site out here: Frybrid Vegetable Oil Systems www.frybrid.com $5,500 for a cc.com member
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