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boadman

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Everything posted by boadman

  1. As someone who has been lowered off the end of a rope (I fell roughly 30'), I strongly recommend that everyone internalize the habit of tying a stopper knot in the end of their rope every time they leave the ground. Anyone who's spent much time at WW1 understands what a horrendous fall that would be.
  2. how do they fit? I have big palms, roughly 4.5" wide x 5" long. I've always been afraid to order them online without trying them on first.
  3. Index, probably GNS area to start, followed by my private idaho.
  4. They always have their brake hands on the rope.
  5. Your problem is in your approach. You have to look at the route of the word, "Crushing", which is "Crush", as in - Turning hard things in to little bittie hard things. So, stop climbing with technique, using your feet, etc. Just grab the top of the cliff, and bring it down to the ground. It doesn't matter how tall it is, just reach a little higher, hold tight, and crush it. Get it? You'll never crush if you keep walking up stuff with your lower appendages.
  6. If anyone wants to spend money and time on climbing routes, there is a lot of old hardware out there on super quality climbs that needs replacement. Maybe before bolting new choss, we should make sure the old not-choss is up to date? Here is a really good article: http://www.climbing.com/climber/built-to-last/ It does kind of gloss over the fact that bolters are donating time and money to these efforts.
  7. The mythos would probably work better if you want your toes flat. The long laces make it possible to adjust the fit for lots of different foot shapes.
  8. Awesome! I've wanted to get on that route for years, but have always been intimidated by the flakes.
  9. Route for route, Index is world class. Nothing else in Washington compares. If you include the entire sky valley, it gets even better, with world class bouldering, and some super fun sport climbing.
  10. I want to buy a lightweight super packable sleeping bag for summer alpine and camping adventures. If you've got one you're getting rid of let me know. Also, if anyone has a recommendations for a good product, let me know that too. Thanks.
  11. Ben Gilkison has bunch of really nice photos of index routes, you should contact him about using some for your book.
  12. A short video showing one of my highlights. Voodoo holdless slab wrestling. Some of the footage is a little shaky, but I think it's still fun to watch.
  13. On the west side of the road on the hill above the turn off to bridge creek. You walk by it on the way to Quantum Mechanics.
  14. I've read that the micro-traxions can munch up your rope if you're falling a lot. Any thoughts?
  15. Does the prusik slide easily while you're working on moves, or do you have to futz with it? Do you clip the catastrophe knot into your harness?
  16. I've got some projects that I'd like to work on by myself that are not too challenging to access from above. What are people's preferred methods for top-rope soloing?
  17. Mountain project has a pretty good route finder: 12a-13a Index sport climbs Little Si Sport New Halem Sport Routes etc. If you look through the comments, you can generally get a sense about whether or not the route would appeal to you. People do seem to forget sometimes that Index is a world class sport climbing destination for the 5.12 climber.
  18. There's a pretty big burm between the road and the parking lot, wouldn't really do any good.
  19. Equinox is awesome, but the only current allowed access is by mountain bike. T-A=0. Still haven't shown the goods. One of the best spots for sport climbing in WA is Equinox crag. Pretty much 11a and up.
  20. Where's Umbrella Rock (more detail than off Cavanaugh Road)?
  21. The Ford banner doesn't let me access my pms. I use firefox as a browser. The drop down menu is behind the banner, and i can't click on the message option without clicking the add.
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