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boadman

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Everything posted by boadman

  1. Thanks for the Beta. Shoes & chalkbag it is.
  2. The main problem I see is with periodization is that the average weekend warrior would rather see slow steady progress over a long period of time than short peaks of maximum performance unless your psyched for a short trip or something. It's also way to anal for most climbers to pursue. The average climber might not reach their peak genetic potential without following some sort of periodized training schedule, but most of us could get quite a bit stronger simply by bouldering at the gym a couple of times a week. Additionally, until you get up into the 13+ range, strength isn't really that big of a deal on most sport routes. Usually there's a power-endurance failure mode rather than a strength failure mode. Index could be an exception I guess, but I've rarely done moves on a rope that felt harder than V-3.
  3. The main issue with wind power is dispatch and storage. It will never work as the main power producer without a storage mechanism. Grid stability is also challenging. Conservation is way cheaper than any other energy source, including coal. Up those gas prices w/ a carbon tax, and add a carbon tax on coal, and we'll see some changes.
  4. Anybody have any good beta for the climbing in Cabo? I'm going there for a week with family over christmas. Is it worth it to bring a rope and rack, or should I just take shoes and boulder? Any good guides? Are bolts/anchors safe there?
  5. I picked up a pair of 5.5 red mad rocks that had been out at Little Si for at least a week. Let me know if they're yours. I can deliver to stone gardens.
  6. Anybody have a full body kids harness they'd like to sell? My son's 3, 36 inches tall and about 26 pounds.
  7. Just send it to me, I'll recycle it for you. It used to be that you could send cams in to CCH and they would fix triggers, and replace the lobes for $15, they'd even resling them. I'm not sure if that's still happening now that Dave's passed away. The cams are actually kind of finicky to repair.
  8. Actually, I think it's up to 5 who've lead it, right? Todd Skinner Hugh Herr Alan Watts (he didn't send, but he still lead it) Mikey (edited for brain fart) Ben G.
  9. How long is the rope? I'd be interested if it's a 70m.
  10. A couple of friends have advised that the cross-over is, "the bushwack from hell" Is that an exageration?
  11. Any updated info on Slesse conditions? Is the gate open? Has the glacier let loose? Would the west descent require a 9 mile hike out? Thanks!
  12. Anybody been out to Slesse recently? I'm heading out there the weekend of the 19th and wondering what the road/approach/decent conditions are like. Any up-to-date beta would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  13. Does anyone know if Dreamer on Green Giant Buttress would be dry/climbable/approachable this time of year? Has anyone been up there recently? Thanks!
  14. I'm going to be in Richland for the next few days, could someone direct me to the best climbing gym? Thanks!
  15. Anybody want to head up to little si afterwork today? I can probably get up there around 5.
  16. I was up on Slow Children that day when it happened. We were sure somebody had eaten it. We rapped down a little ways, but someone on the ground told us everyone was o.k. Later, I tried to see where the rock had come down. It looked like it was off to the right of the nice crack at the top of thin fingers by 15 or 20.' Was I seeing the right scar, or did it actually come off of thin fingers?
  17. boadman

    housing

    Hey-My girlfriend and I just moved back to the area. We're looking for housing. If any climbers have some space in the less than 800$ range, let me know. We're hoping to be close to the climbing gym and down town.
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