Panos
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Posts posted by Panos
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Hey,
My guide books do not say a thing about climbing this route in winter - say after October ...
Of course parties have done it as early as the mid-70s.
My question goes as follows:
From your own experience and/or judgment, and supposing that there is a window of good weather to attempt the climb, what snow conditions may one encounter up there? Some crevasses may be covered but the snow might still be unstable ...? Do not mention the short days, that's a fact!
What about the easier Success Clever without ropes or as possible descent route?
If these propositions sound silly do you have something else (a big alpine) to suggest for TGiving ?
All replies welcome
Ibex
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Hi,
I understand that finding a partner for commiting
alpine routes is not easy, especially through the web!
However, if you are also looking for a partner to climb
routes of grade IV-V, then we should meet and have a chat.
I live in Seattle and I am new here (that's why I am posting this).
If interested take a look here and drop me a message:
http://www.atmos.washington.edu/~panos/personal.html
All the best
P.
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I am in Seattle too.
Are you interested in climbing Liberty
Ridge and/or other similar routes ?
We should meet and have a chat.
Email me at: panos@u.washington.edu
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Let's put an end here. Buckaroo, Sobo and Ivan gave useful responses. Than you guys. Forecast gives sleet up there tonight, the gully is wet and the days are short ... I think I will leave the traverse for next summer or find a partner and give it a go if we get good winter conditions later in the season. Enjoy your weekend.
www.atmos.washington.edu/~panos/personal.html
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In contrast to spray this is quite informative, thank you. I will remember your note. I have climbed icy wet and mossy chimneys in the Dolomites and it was not fun. I pressume the gully you mention is in the 5.4-5.6 range and that is "the exit from the north face bowl" mentioned in books.
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Hurray, I managed to decode the first bit. I bet you suggest me to try the NE buttress of Johannesburg! The remaining part of the phrase is very cryptic for a newcomer.
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Okay.
I have to say though that I got lost with your slang.
Consider that I am very new in the US ;o)
All the best
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No offense Ivan, thank you for your advice and accept my apologies for my tone. Basically you are saying that it is quite likely one would find fresh white powder up there. The forecast did give snow up there last week but the face looks clean ... I should better go to the Smith rock with my friends then and leave this for next July. Cheers guys
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Surely dude, you are right.
I do not think I am underestimating the climb. It is definitely not winter yet and I am not thinking of climbing mixed or verglass anyway, at least not before I have done the route as a rock climb first. I would appreciate answers to my question from people who have climbed those routes.
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Hi there,
Given the good forecast for the following weekend I am considering giving it a go to solo climb the Mount Index NF or even do the traverse of the mountain. Here is my question: should I take crampons (alu or 6-point) and a small and light ice axe (may also serve as a hammer in case it's needed) or the gullies are expected to be mostly snow free. I would appreciate responses from people who have climbed those routes.
Thank you
Panos
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" If climbing with a partner is 10x safer than solo, then partners who routinely do solo work are probably 10x safer than a couple of ordinary partners."
There are gaps in your reasoning. However you say "probably" and this saves you from making an unjustified statement. By the way, where do you get your statistics from? It sounds an interesting project in any case. I got your message, thank you.
Panos
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Anyone interested in going trad climbing on Saturday?
Vantage, Leavenworth or open to other ideas.
206-766-0913
Panos
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Where are you located ?
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Anyone interested in going to Liberty Bell to climb a route or two (up to 5.9 and up to A2) should contact me to make a plan. Email me directly if you like at: panos@u.washington.edu or call: 206-766-0913. I keep an eye on the forecast for the area.
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Hello,
Is there anyone out there who would like to go crag climbing or to try
a day climb on a near-to-Seattle mountain this Saturday or/and Sunday?
(e.g. Mt Index, N.peak, N.face route, up to 5.7, 6-8 hours)
Index town wall is another option. Open to other ideas.
Trad climbing routes up to easy 5.10.
Let me know as soon as possible
206-766-0913
PANOS
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Hi everyone,
My name is Panos and I am quite new in the US. I live in Seattle and I am very enthusiastic about the great outdoors that the NW has to offer. Currently I am a bit out of shape but I can still lead 5.9 trad. I like committed alpine ascents (rock, ice & mixed) and have plenty of experience including some long new routes and solo climbs. I am posting this to meet people to climb with and make new friends. I would appreciate all responses. I am looking forward for Mt. Index to get white. I am also up for discovering any big classic in the area. I have a car for escaping. Drop me a message at: panos@u.washington.edu
All the best
Panos
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Hi folks (and Chris),
Please check the forecast and write to me directly
(swr03pa@rdg.ac.uk) on Thursday 12/1. If it is good
we can meet either at the airport or at Paradise
early on Saturday morning ... and go up
Happy New Year
Panos.
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Just to keep this going ;o)
Please contact me if interested
Merry x-mas
Panos
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GUYS,
PLEASE DROP ME A LINE TO: swr03pa@rdg.ac.uk
and I'll circulate a message to all of us.
Alasdair:
You are right man. The problem is that
I am visiting Seattle for a short time
and I only have free 14,15,16 & 20,21 of Jan
... but luck cannot always be against me ;o)
In this case, with or without company, I will
definitely have to rush.
Q. where do you you get these light wands?
Any stored at Muir?
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www.mountaineers.org/climbing/News_Events/CN402_Rainier.html
Usualy I make my own plan but for this particular climb
the plan described on the webpage above seems ideal.
I am glad I found this ;o)
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Post deleted by Panos
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Giblartar ledges;
I was told this is the safest provided one knows
the way and temperature is well below freezing.
Panos.
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I am visiting Seattle in mid January and
weather permitting I am planning to attempt
an ascent on Rainier. Anybody interested for
climbing -or simply transporting to Paradise- together?
Personal info @ www.met.rdg.ac.uk/~swr03pa/Personal.html
WRITE TO: swr03pa@rdg.ac.uk TO JOIN THE DISCUSSION BELOW.
Merry X-mas
Panos.
Is Liberty Ridge possible @ TGiving ?
in Climber's Board
Posted
I have exactly the same feeling!
As JayB suggests I took a look at Shuksan NF. It looks a nice route, I need to check approachability. On the other hand Mount Hood seems more easily approachable but for Yocum Ridge it is probably a bit early now.
Thanks for the suggestions.