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yesman

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Everything posted by yesman

  1. Looks like 200 Motels in J-Tree.
  2. I camped near the base of the route monday night - it looked to be in good shape, with the best passage on climbers left. Descent of Sherpa also looked good.
  3. Climb: Shuksan -North Face Date of Climb: 3/18/2006 Trip Report: Marek, Brian, James and I attempted the North Face of Shuksan 3/18-20. We followed the creek up into the White Salmon Valley on snowshoes and were camped at the White Salmon moraine by 5pm. The unconsolidated snow made for slow going and forshadowed the difficulties of the next day. We were up and moving by 3:30a the next morning, gained the col at the base of the N. Face and began climbing as it was getting light. We belayed the first pitch, which was snow and ice. Above this pitch the snow got less consolidated and runninig belays took us to a 15' waterfall with an interesting cave underneath. We got a screw into the ice (our first legitimate piece in several ropelengths) and rounded the waterfall to climber's left onto steeper alpine ice. With the snow getting deeper, under an intermittent breakable crust, we put the snowshoes back on and made very slow progress upward. We continued up through and around rock outcroppings, unable to place any pro in the deep, unconsolidated snow. With 200' feet to go to the top of the Face, we considered pushing on through the night and traversing to the west of the pyramid for a descent of the White Salmon Glacier, but with darkness coming and the wind/spindrift picking up we opted for a descent of the climbing route. It was 6:30p. We downclimbed the North Face in the dark, including two double rope raps off snow anchors. We were back to camp at 12:30a. We were up early the next morning and to the car by 10:30a, followed shortly by a plundering of the convenience store in Glacier. Great trip with a strong group! Got some great pictures, I'll try and get them posted. Gear Notes: Pickets, screws, second tool
  4. A winter ascent of Rainier is not a good place to get "introduced to the sport." Try something else.
  5. Looking for a partner for Chair, NE Butt this thursday - shoot me an e-mail: fieldsmr at gmail.com.
  6. Heading to Chair this weekend (NE Butt) - anybody been out there recently or know what kind of shape the route is in?
  7. Looking for a belay partner - Vert World Magnolia - weekday evenings. PM me if you're interested.
  8. Did you call The Foggy Mountain Shop in Juneau to see if they know where he's at? It's pretty much the only shop in Juneau.
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