RocNoggin

wow, nice job! any pics?

what route do you plan on trying?

light rain at the Pass now, but the clouds look thin, it might be OK at X38...

the route actually looked like it was "in"...good luck getting to it though! we had the key to the gate so the 10km ski turned into an 8km drive before the road got too rough for a passenger car. the problem with getting to the climb is that now all the snow in the valley bottom has melted out and the last 2km of the road is TOTALLY overgrown with slide alder. warm temps and rain on/off was inducing a lot of wet snow sliding off the surrounding peaks, Zero Gully looked good though and nothing was falling on the route directly. we decided that the weather was crappy, the snow wouldnt likely be much better, there was something of a safety issue to consider, and no one wanted anything to do with 2km of bushwacking through wet slide alder. so we went to Squamish instead...but thats another trip report.

post some TR's when you get back! I want to go there later this summer! LOL

DH, by any chance have you been to a snowboarders convention lately? just curious...

nice pics!

nice job! well written and nice pics too! :-)

and just what are the routes that you want to do?

as you may or may not know, a local climber and owner of the guide company SummitClimb.com, Dan Mazur, was instrumental in the rescue of another climb thought dead on Everest. Dan and Lincoln Hall, the rescued climber, will be on the Today Show and Dateline, Monday, June 12th. some background info on the events and rescue on Everest: http://everestnews.com/everest2006/everest05262006.htm http://everestnews.com/Summitclimb2005/everesttibet2006disps05302006.htm http://everestnews.com/Summitclimb2005/everestdan06022006.htm http://everestnews.com/Summitclimb2005/lincolnhalleverest06082006.htm

do you know yet where you will be climbing? I am up at the Pass and I might come down to join you, meet you at the TH or something.

where are Disco and Schmitz parks?

whaddaya know, I pulled my head out of my ass and signed-up for the newsletter and there it was, right on the entrance page, a post for the contest! LOL cheers ;-)

just how crowded are the "crowded classics"? are we talking about people climbing all over each other and 4 or 5 people at a belay?

Good idea...done. done? where? I stil havent seen anything about the contest. like someone else said, not many people visit this forum, such as myself, but I just checked it out today for the first time in months.

are they still giving out the conditional permits or is it actually open for climbing?

from EverestNews.com Alexander Abramov reports, "At ten in the evening on local time Lincoln Hall and Sherpas accompanying him have gone down in camp on North Col (7000м). Yes ! Lincoln Hall has passed without assistance the whole snow slope, from 7500 m! In camp on the Saddle doctor Andrey Selivanov met him and led to a dining tent, which is now as a field hospital. As he said, the first problems of Lincoln is an acute psychosis, a disorientation in space, also he shows resistance accompanying and now to the doctor. First of all it will be necessary to calm him. The reason – an acute edema of a brain and hypoxia. The doctor have examined his hands – frostbitten 2-3 degrees. Legs to the moment of communication were not examined yet. On a question on prospects Andrey has told: "We shall overcome !". Now Lincoln is in heat, in spacious tent with electric illumination, 10 person are engaged in his service. Descent in АВС is planned for tomorrow's morning, but not early, when there will be a sun and will become warmer. Under last message for today (23:00 local time), Lincoln Hall has fallen asleep in warm tent in camp on North Col. Necessary and possible (in this place) medical aid was rendered to him. "

just curious, who did you send the PM to?

posted on May 19, 2006 Hi All, This may seem early to most of you but I have had several inquiries lately so I thought I would pass it on. It is still winter in the Bugaboo Spires. The logging road has only been passable (4x4 only) for a couple of days and the last three KM into the Park are closed due to construction from last fall. The trail is snow covered all the way to the hut and is still threatened by serious avalanche hazard from Eastpost Spire. Historically, parties heading into the Bugs before mid to late June have spent more time wallowing around in waist deep snow than climbing. Cheers, Marc Piché Mountain Guide hope this helps, I am also trying to plan my first trip to the Bugs.

doesnt that bring the total number of deaths this year up to 9? business as usual on the big hill...

I did CA last summer, loved it! recommended! :-)

MOUNT RAINIER, Wash. -- Highway crews have nearly finished digging through snow up to 20 feet deep, and the Transportation Department plans to reopen Chinook Pass at noon Thursday, in time for Memorial Day weekend.

what size bolt was missing a hanger? a newer bolt or an old one?

still have any room on your rope(s) for one or two more?

so what would you recommend for an approach route? what route did you climb on the Mole?