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jesselillis

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Everything posted by jesselillis

  1. I've got some time to climb mid-late March- ideally some longer ice routes (maybe interspersed with some alpine). Thinking of the Canadian Rockies, Hyalite or down around Ouray (or maybe RMNP). Any recommendations?
  2. I've got a spring break mid-late March, I'm thinking about looking for some longer ice routes. PM me if interested in swapping experience/ambitions.
  3. Looking for recommendations for (or against) specific ropes. Use will be primarily sport climbing and top roping. I don't take a lot of falls, but when I do, I prefer they be longer and softer. While I said 'beater', I'm thinking 9.5-9.8, 60meters. Thanks
  4. I'm crazy to get out on some ice, if there is any to get out on in a day from Seattle. I've been leading ice for 4 years, solid on WI4 by the end of a given season- but haven't been out this season so would prefer 3-3+ if I am on lead (happy to follow WI5). Moved out here last year and still not savvy to where it forms up, so if you know, are free and want to give 'er, PM me. Jesse (male flavored, as I am inevitably asked) PS My vehicle does NOT have 4WD, so we need easy access, your vehicle with 4WD or enduring cardio to xc approach when my car gets stuck...
  5. Thanks for the replies. Reduction in weight and volume were large motivators- though maybe I am overestimating the worth (especially if I am not going to cut the number of raps in half). 20% reduction in weight, 16% reduction in volume between 8.5mm and 7.8mm? Lugging the 8.7lb 10.2mm for 10 miles sucks, but doesn't quite seem to suck as much as 2 people lugging a 6.3lb 8.5mm each. It miiiight suck more than 2 people lugging a 5.0lb 7.8mm each. 8.1mm sounds huge as a bail tag/rap line. If it's just for rappeling, why not use 6mm static cord with your 9.1?
  6. If you know of a prior thread that addressed this and can direct me, I would appreciate it. Now that there are twin ropes also rated as doubles, I'm considering getting a pair (of 7.8mm twin ropes), for long rappels, sharing the load on long approaches, better for resuce setups, etc. But I was wondering what others who have actually used them think. I've had some ugly snarls with my (8.4mm) doubles while belaying (this may just be a matter of personal rope management). I'm also wondering if 7.8mm is much more likely to get caught when pulling the ropes after rappeling on less than vertical (most alpine) climbs. Any thoughts/experiences appreciated. Thanks
  7. I'm looking for a good picture of the route up the South face of Prusik, in the Enchantments. Partner and I attempted to approach and climb the South face of Prusik Saturday. I don't recommend pushing the approach+climb (and return to camp or car) this time of year unless you already know the trail, approach and route pretty well, and can move quickly with a rack and camping gear. I'm sure we started up the climb in the right spot, traversed a bit right from the higher trees (top of 2nd pitch) to the slabby/knobby section, but then couldn't find the chimmney with chockstone. Wound up heaven-knows-where-but-starting-to-feel-like-5.10+ off-route, and bailed off some nuts in the dark. The description of the route I read said you could see the chock stone from the ground (to my discredit I did not look for it at the start, and I obviously couldn't see it in the dark when we got down). Does anyone have a pretty good picture of the route they could post here, send me (PM), or direct me to by URL? I'd like to know where the heck I was supposed to have gone. Thanks
  8. ive got some time off in december- about 10 days. i'd like to spend it climbing- i'll probably be out with a bunch of sport people, but trad recommendations also welcome (hell- water ice recommendations welcome, maybe i'll ditch that crowd) where is not freezing? joshua tree? red rocks? st. george? virgin river gorge? or do i have to go texas or mexico? thanks
  9. I'm looking for a partner for a sustained weekend. Day 1- hike in to, and climb, prussik. Camp around snow lake. Day 2, hike over to Temple or hike out and climb Orbit on the way out. Let me know if you are interested (PM) and we can share experience/ability info. Alternatively, let me know if you were out there in the past week and think conditions would be prohibitive on any of the climbs I mentioned Thanks Jesse
  10. apparently no one wants to slog 36 miles to climb olympus this weekend anyone want to crag tomorrow? i'm up for whatever 32,38,index,tieton; pm me if interested
  11. I'm looking for a partner to climb Mt. Olympus this coming weekend. Ideally leave Thursday after work, hike Fri, climb Sat, hike out Sun. I've got ample trad, sport, water ice, wilderness first aid (former WEMT) experience. Some alpine and bc ski. PM me if interested and we can swap experience/climbing priorities. I'm happy to consider all sorts of other climbs if you are looking to get out but not up for the distance involved in Olympus.
  12. looking for a partner to go up rainier this weekend (by any [least crowded] class II route pending rangers' (or CCers') thoughts). drive to the park thursday, hike fri, summit and return saturday. pm me if interested and we can swap experience, priorities, etc. or, hell, since this is sort of late notice, if you are looking for a partner for some other alpine climb within same time frame- pm me.
  13. Anyone climbed Mt.Hood in November (Thanksgiving)? I'm thinking of going up with a relatively inexperienced partner. I've only been up in July. I would be comfortable going up with him in those conditions, but I'd anticipate November being a bit less ideal? Thoughts/suggestions/alternatives appreciated.
  14. i left my 'weekend rock' guidebook at the base of royal columns on saturday, 5/10. it was not there the morning of sunday 5/11. if anyone picked it up, my name is in it (either inside of front cover or on page 1): COLANGELO-LILLIS please contact me if you picked it up, i'll pay shipping or arrange to pick it up. thanks (if there are other, more appropriate, forums for this post, please let me know)
  15. I'm sure this isn't place, but I don't know where is, and I'm sure someone perusing here does- I'm looking for a carpool forum to WA ski resorts. Specifically I want to carpool from Seattle to Stevens on Saturday. Anyone know of a website or other forum by which people meet up to carpool (have [small] car, want riders)? Thanks
  16. i'm fairly new to the area, have the entire weekend open. looking for both recommendations/partners for a full on weekend trip. rock would be a fall back but would rather climb (ie walk up with skins on) something ski-able. was hoping to do glacier until recently informed the approach was dramatically elongated by last years storms and subsequent disappearance of roads. i'm proficient on vertical rock and ice, have some ski mountaineering experience (took the class and out maybe 5 weekends backcountry). what was the best winter weekend adventure you had last year? and, are you busy this weekend?
  17. my bc ski trip this weekend was cancelled. im looking for recommednations for day trips that won't involve much avy risk/exposure. i'm new to the area as of this summer, so i've been relying on mountaineer trips to find out what people do/where they go in the winter. im pretty well versed in snow travel, avy I, bc skiing, scrambling, ice climbing etc. have gear for most anything of the sort. forum recommendations, pm's, or website urls welcomed. or- if you are seattle based, have a fun trip planned tomorrow, and are interested in having one more along, that would be stellar as well thanks j
  18. recommendations for cleaning rust from crampons? wire brush and... anything? does anyone put any kind of oil or anything on afterwards to protect them? or just 'dry them off after use to prevent rust' thanks j
  19. im looking into some skis (at setup) for both speeding up alpine ascents/decents and to enjoy some mellow day trips with no purpose other than to get some turns. im looking for a ski that is ok at both (30% resort, 70% backcountry; 30% powder-ish/50% crud-ish/20% on a pack-ish). right now im thinking bd or k2 skis, but i'd like to hear thoughts on most anything. 5'7", 150lbs. thanks for thoughts (review links you have found useful also appreciated) j
  20. im new to skiing, looking to buy an at setup this season so i can start moving uphill (after years of snowboarding- i am not interested in splitboards... yet) so, dynafit bindings ive heard leashes will help drag you down in an avalanche, since even though you've released, the ski anchors are still attached to you (and may propellor your face in the process). i've also heard dynafit brakes dont work very well. thoughts? id rather lose a ski than be trying to swim with anchors, but if you have experience with brakes leashes, i'd like to hear. thanks j
  21. Hello I am new to the NW. I'd like to climb at Mt. Erie this weekend, because of it's proximity to Orcas Island (current home). I don't have a guidebook, only some spray that there's quite a diversity of stuff to climb there. I found some reference to a limited publication of printed guidebooks- is there still a guidebook available? A local gear shop to find it at? Is there camping there or nearby? Are there places to climb where it is relatively dry this time of year? I'm comfortable on moderate trad and sport, but will likely be climbing with some beginners. Any beta at all very much appreciated. Thanks Jesse
  22. I just moved to Orcas Island (from Oregon) I'm looking for climbing on the islands if there is any (cliffs on waldron?), or the closest climbing to Anacortes if there isn't any on the islands. Any recommendations appreciated Thanks Jesse
  23. I've been trad and sport climbing for a few years. It turns out that I will be working in the Sierra Nevadas this summer and relaively close to Yosemite. I'd like to learn something about big wall climbing and I'm looking for all the beta I can get. Websites worth looking at, recommednations for haul sacks, portaledges, books to read etc. Ideally I'll find someone out there willing to take me through the ropes of lead, haul, jug, but if I don't I'll be going at it with friends with a similar skill set to mine (lots of trad and sport, but little to 0 aid). If you have any constructive advice, I'd appreciate hearing it.
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