Stewart
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Posts posted by Stewart
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[ There is a wasps nest at the base of Vertical Threapy. Right behind the big rock where you want to plop your ass and backback.
Yes I plopped my pack right down on the nest and luckly escaped without a sting. Then I would say about 50-75 bee's began swarmin our packs. After spending quite a bit of time recovering our packs and rope we headed over to espresso and climbed out at sunset. Your Pimp, Stewart
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Hey Bill, I met you at another crag a few months back. I just moved to just off of 76th and Fremont and went last week first time with friend Jason Frick. We did Blueberry and Blackberry Jam. Both awsome!! I was wondering if you know the History of Blackberry Jam. As I was belaying Jason as he went from free to aid I noticed an old 1/4" at the belay. Then while following noticed two chopped 1/4" at the steep section. Were these from the FA in 74' or the FFA 77'. From the style of climbing that R.Mcgown was doing out at beacon I wouldn't think that it was him, but maybe. Just interested.
Your Pimp, stewart
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And another quote from the good book Chapter titled "An Apology"
"Most climbers are individuals who love freedom - they climb because it makes them feel free. We may expect then, that having others suggest how they ought to climb will rub wrong. There used to be so few climbers.....there will be more. A simple equation exists between freedom and numbers: the more people the less freedom. If we are to retain the beauties of the sport, the fine edge, the challenge, we must consider our style of climbing; and if we are not to mutilate and destroy the routes, we must eliminate the heavy-handed use of pitons and bolts." RoyalRobbins Basic Rockcraft
Your light in the night, Snoop
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"A climb is a work of art, a creation of the men who made the first ascent. To make it more difficult by chopping bolts is an insult to those who put it up and to deprive others of the joy of repeating the route as the first party did it..... Better to paint our own pictures and write our own poems....to bring a climb down to one's level by placing bolts ( or pitons on an all-nutclimb) shows an equally lamentable lack of respect for, and degrades the accomplishments of, its creators. If we do not disturbe the route done in a shoddy manner (e.g. the placement of unnecessary bolts), it will do no harm, and may provide a good climb for the less capable. And as for the route done in elegant fashion - let it remain as a pinnacle of achievement to which we may aspire. Better that we raise our skill than lower the climb. So let it be." Basic Rockcraft by Royal Robbins.
This book may be out dated, but offers me (a newbie) good guidelines by which I may learn to climb with good style and ethics. Jon Stewart (aka Pimp)
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All in all as something folks clip when topping out it left a lot to be desired.
I would never clip into a key chain. It doesn't even look like it would hold body weight. Your personal savior, snoop
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I will be attempting to tick off all 10c routes this summer so sign me up for your circus party. R? and rattling pins sounds fun. Your Pimp, snoop
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We are working with BRSP staff to resolve the development issues and hope to have new development protocols in place sometime this year so we can get back to it. As it stands now no new fixed protection is allowed. Again we will are actively on this one as there is the potential for some nice stuff up there. That said, if it's dry for a couple of days it's still worth exploring if you've never looked at it all...
If I remember correctly, I believe there where also discussions of getting the East Face of "Che-che-op-tin"(always like to know the real name, thanks Joseph) open for climbing as well. If I can state my opinion and my concerns. I realize that I may be all alone on this one. I am sure that I would not support opening the East Face for climbing. I believe that opening the NW for development could be dangerous and if not done catiously, and with restraint could get ugly with knuckle heads up there grid bolting like crazy. Myself included. Also if a 'Route Setting Committee' is put together to act as a governing body. I can only imagine the politics that would come along with it. Not that I don't appreciate bolt replacement, I love safe bolts as much as I love rusty pins on the corner, stepping around the corner to the east face and hearing the osprey, wind and the motor of a hammerdrill at full speed. Just give me one no,no two more seasons without sportclimbers and there beta junkie friends. What is a "potato chip crimper" anyways? Just kidding I love sportclimbers, they've traditionally had the best fashion.
Peace, Stewart
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Yes its true, I'm Dutch. And its also true that I flew off of that route for a 20ft whipper. And yes I'm THREATENED by that climb as well. But I love clippin into bashies on lead so I'll probable go back for more and would be honered to have Bill Coe belay me cuz I think you were part of the original ascent. Weren't You? Whats the Story with the bashy, is it still there after the cleaning, I certainly hope so. Peace, Stewart or (aka snoop) to some.
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Hey Crimper, My dog Lucy and Barley just had a close encouter with the mother bear just this July. I was on grass ledge when the bear came right up to the railroad tracks. The bear headed back to the river where I caught a glimpse. I was impressed, but Lucy says she felt THREATENED. Now whenever I suggest going to Beacon she just tucks her tail. She was also attacked by a huge owl at a local crag this spring. This thing had at least a 5ft wing span. Again, I was impressed, she fet THREATENED. Eversince then she argues with me every time I try to leash her up. Oh sh*t, did I just admit to talking to my dog? Also, I'm threatened by Blood Sweat and Smears and the direct start to Bluebird. Peace, Stewart
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I have not done much climbing in any of the area's covered by these new guides. I have been to Wolf Rock once and RattleSnake near the Rouge a dozen of times (my girlfriends parents live down there). I purchased Vol 1 just last week Cuz I think there great. I love the history, and the topo's are really nice. I too noticed a few errors in grammer and have already made changes that I saw listed on line. The guide book that I use mostly is Portland Rock Climbs. From talking with some local old-timers they say there are tons of mistakes in this guide book and I think the topo's are below average. So I just deal and get History from the old-timers whenever I can. Can't wait to get vol 2 and go down to do Old Man. I visited him in the rain this spring and am eager to return. However, the entire base of Old Man, Old Woman is covered in poison-oak. Peace, Stewart
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To JosephH; Didn't think the routes I did could be done with gear. Maybe one piece under the small roof that I think I used as an under cling, but that was at the 6th bolt and my memory is cloudy.
To retired; I did have one handhold break off on me, but blamed it on the rain softing things up and I was probable the first person to climb it that year, maybe some frost wedging had occured. Otherwise I thought the route I was on was pretty solid. What's been your experiance, cuz I'm planning on returning as soon as possible. Thanks, Stewart
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check out the first pitch of barad-dur... looks fun eh?
I was out there this spring '05 and was interested in doing Barad-dur, but it was raining. Still hiked up to check it out and did a couple of the sport route's cuz there under the roofs. I think I did the left route of Forked Route. I didn't have a guide book, but have identified it from Vol. 1 The Willamette. It was pretty stiff and alot of fun. I took a whipper after pulling the little roof/crux? and would say the bolts kept me from hitting the ground, so that route was bolted safetly. I had thought that the bolts were spaced perfectly, but I like a heady lead. Some sissy from the gym would probable cry the whole way up. Not that I'm that tough. With all that said, if any of you have done barad-dur I would love some info cuz the first bolt I saw on the route was about (30ft?) up. The guide book doesn't list any pro or info on the first couple of pitches. Friends who always try to scare me before I do any pitch said that Wayne Arrington has balls of steel from being in vetniam and that he ran the thing out to all hell. I mean looking at those roofs and thinking I would like to onsite-solo up there is pretty intense. It just makes me that much more interested in climbing it. Plus "barad-dur" that's a scary place.
Peace, Stewart -
Since the tree is the hot topic, thought I would add some observations. Was the soil eroded naturally or from 50yrs of climbers setting up belay's? My answer would be both, with the climbers speeding up the process by not allowing mosses, grasses, vegetation, roots to grow over the soil and in effect prevent erosion. When this soil (gravel, rocks, hummus, etc.) eroded or was kicked down I'm sure some climbers who were potentially climbing at the time didn't enjoy the dirt shower. I have had several dirt/rock showers out at beacon and continue to go out for more. However, the thought of getting a gravel or "native gravelly mix" showered down onto myself knowing that the soils were brought up by humans does not get me too excited to return for more. All this talk of saving a tree that isn't dying and has survived 50yrs of climbers passing by, wind, ice and storms is perhaps a bit much. Humans will always do whatever they want, so have at it. I would prefer that nothing be done, but it doesn't seem like that is going to happen so I guess my next choice would be a sign on the info board. My next choice after that would be myself camping up there, so that I can give a little speech to everyone who comes by. I would say "look at how amazing this tree is, please respect it, it is the only tree on this ledge and will be for many years to come, even after death it will be as amazing as the grey snag that you just passed down at snag ledge." Sorry I got a little carried away there. Peace, snoop
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I am new to this site and new to climbing. Looks like you guys have been doing alot of work out there. I have little experience with replacing anchors, but thought I might contribute what info I do have. I believe Blownout's anchor was replaced just last year and I saw someone replace the first anchor on Steppenwolf just this July. Maybe it was you, if it wasn't then this info will save you an extra trip.
Things that you may want to consider regarding the tree on the SE Corner. Through my years of working with tree's I have noticed that when roots become exposed two things can happen; Death, or the roots begin to harden off and become like the trunk of the tree. If this happens the tree will continue on with its life. Another thing I have noticed is that when trunks of tree's become covered or buried with soil, dirt, etc. the potential for moisture to rot out the bark and in effect kill the tree is increased. I am not saying that this will happen, but these are some things to consider before spending many hours of work to haul soil up to the ledge. Also, I am never interested in rapping off of tree's. Unless its old growth, it just scares the hell out of me. But if I see slings and rap rings on a tree I do tend to trust the tree just a bit more, but usually look to back it up if I can. If you put a rappeling anchor on a tree that traditionally did not have one, are you encouraging people to do so?
In regards to the "arrows" on the southeast corner, that sucks! When I came across those I was very upset. I have seen pictures from Europe where they actually write, with a sharpie, info or some other crap. They also bolt cracks, I've heard. Hope that scratching arrows and writing with sharpies dosn't become a problem.
Since I cannot help out with Labor, hope I can help out with my limited knoledge. Peace, Stewart (aka. snoop)
Chalk - you've got to be kidding me...
in Rock Climbing Forum
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Modern Day Petroglyph?
Your Messiah from the Earth, snoop